93-12Smoke

I'm i crazy or doesn't someone make a dual gauge column pod?



Found it but they are for 2003 and newer.

NJTman

I hear that you're crazy, but that doesn't really bother me. My whole family is nuts, so..... it is what it is...



I can put it right next to my tach, but then I won't be able to see my speedo, and with my luck, some cop will pull me over and ticket me for obstruction of gauges.... or whatever..

Thiss

After chasing noises and vibrations for two days. It is not right, but it is better. I found a loose clamp on the turbo intake. A little tightening equated to more power, less noise, and less vibration. This even further proves the need for the 3 gauge combo. I now know a boost gauge is important too.

NJTman

Can someone tell me which port is the correct one for installing the gauge sender ?


Can't believe it's the bottom one, as the throttle cable assembly is right in the way...


Thanks.

dodgenstein

If you wish to see pressure drop from a clogging fuel filter put the banjo bolt for sender in the top port (the one with the bleeder screw). The other port can be used to see peak pump pressure.

d22019

I have mine on the top one, post filter. I'm 100% sure because I remember fighting the stuff that was in the way.

NJTman

Is there an advantage to either port ?

Does one port provide "better" information than the other ?

I purchased a brass street elbow that would allow the sensor to be installed in either port, so I can install it either way, upper or lower.

My problem is now I don't know what's more effective for keeping tabs on the engine.... upper or lower port. Does the FF being in upper port affect readings ? Can I assume only if it's clogging ?

93-12Smoke

I have it in the line leaving the filter and going to the ip. I want to know what my ip is getting. Could care less what pressure the filter gets.

NJTman

That makes sense..... Thanks.... And much easier too !

oliver foster

That way you can keep tabs of how the filter is doing, rather than just changing it since "it has been a while"
It should save you money other time, as you will only change the filter when it is really needed.

NJTman

Now that I have a fuel pressure gauge installed, I drove it around today, and found that for the majority of the time, the FP pressure was in the 3-4 PSI range. It never really varied from that, other than when I originally started it, and it hovered around 2 psi for a while.

So, wondering if my lift pump was going bad after 177,000 miles, I looked around for an article to see what the FP pressure should actually be. I guess I'm ok for a while, since this article says it's right where it's supposed to be.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/1st...e-requirements

Here is the fuel pressure requirements for a 1st Generation Dodge Cummins with a VE injection pump.
Maximum Inlet restriction ............................... 4 In Hg
Maximum Return line Restriction ................ 20.4 In Hg
Maximum pressure drop across fuel filter ............ 5 PSI
Maximum pressure at the injection pump .......... 10 PSI
Minimum pressure at the injection pump ............. 3 PSI
Volume of fuel pumped in 30 seconds ........ 0.79 Quarts
The maximum inlet and return line restriction is measured using a vacuum pump against the lines looking for flow restrictions. Minimum and maximum fuel pressure is measured between both idle and WOT operation looking for performance of the fuel pump is with specification. The measured fuel pressure should be measured near the injection pump. Volume of fuel is measured by disconnection the fuel line and disconnecting the fuel shutoff solenoid and cranking the engine for 30 seconds.
WARNING! Don't crank the engine for more than 30 seconds or starter damage could occur. If you need to repeat the test allow the starter to cool for at least 2-3 minutes before testing again.


What do you guys think ? Is this good information to go by ? If not, can you provide supporting articles showing why not ?

Thanks !

93-12Smoke

If you plan to add mods from here I would suggest going to a LP piston style pump or something other than stock. I didn't like my FP being that low. When I added the new IP and injectors I could pull it all the way down to between 1 and 0.

NJTman

are you talking about this upgrade ?
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ll-t93722.html

How do you regulate the pressure ? Do you have a regulator in line to work with ?

93-12Smoke

If you get the LOW PRESSURE lift pump you wont need a regulator. If you use a 2nd get lift pump you will need a regulator. All the stuff to go that route is around 250.00. I went with the Raptor 100 which comes with 1/2 fuel lines from the tank to the filter and is electric and adjustable fuel pressure but is preset at 15 psi. It was $390 but keeps me about 10 psi at WOT.

BILTIT

Go with this one, nice complete kit and your choice of spring. It is the best lp pump.

http://thehungrydiesel.com/site/mobi...Pump.html#2932