Hooooooo boy, You guys need to do this!
#16
Registered User
What Is The Pin ??
Thanks for clearing that up.
While I have a good picture to explain, in the slot, just above the spring hole, is a 1/8" diameter pin, sticking through the throttle lever.
It is sort of held in place by tension on the assembly.
My engine, and a few others I have noticed, was missing that pin.
A friend, that was more familiar with the set-up, noticed my lack of a pin and cut a length of welding rod, making me a pin.
I could tell no difference, with or without the pin.
What is that pin and what is it's function??
Thanks.
#17
Adminstrator-ess
That pin engages the breakover spring. The breakover spring prevents pump or linkage damage from overtravel in the throttle linkage. Without that pin you would not get full throttle lever travel inside the pump (unless the two pieces of the throttle lever are stuck together from rust or gunk).
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Chesapeake Va
Posts: 441
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ive had my spring for about a month now sitting there on my bench,Im still a little intimidated by the thought of putting it on my self,but hearing you guys talk about it makes me think I just need to suck it up and tear into it.
#19
Registered User
You gotta do it man! Getting the clocking right in the throttle shaft is the hardest part, and if you mark it right even that is not hard.
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
I had no problems with the shaft. Only took me 2 hours. If you dont retard the pump take a long 8mm allen wrench and cut it so it is about equal length on both sides of the 90* bend. Then with the remaining length and "round" the end of it. It should still have the 6 sides but should look kinda like a ball end. That way you can get at the screw at the back of the afc housing...or spend $2 for a machinists balled end allen wrench. Good luck!
Jon
Jon
#21
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: COVINGTON,LA
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
really, of all the things i've done to my truck, this is the best mod yet (especially for the money).
daryl
#22
Registered User
Mine also dropped for a while because of the devil in my right foot. It tool MUCH longer to get myself back under control with the stage IV upgrade, like 6 months!
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
I am probably gonna get 12 maybe 13 mpg on this tank but I could pass that as pulling the trailer, 24 ft g-neck. Trailer was built in '76, all steel with 2x8 planks of oak for the floor boards! Trailer was used to haul draft horses. Very nice shape. Rowing through 1st, 2nd and then 3rd, if I am not careful, I really torque that frame. Pretty cool. EGT's only spike to 950* Need more fuel.
Jon
Jon
#24
Adminstrator-ess
I had no problems with the shaft. Only took me 2 hours. If you dont retard the pump take a long 8mm allen wrench and cut it so it is about equal length on both sides of the 90* bend. Then with the remaining length and "round" the end of it. It should still have the 6 sides but should look kinda like a ball end. That way you can get at the screw at the back of the afc housing...or spend $2 for a machinists balled end allen wrench. Good luck!
Jon
Jon
#26
Registered User
I plan to get the spring but I was wondering if anymore rpm be achieved with turning the screw stop on the pump? Also when the 3200 rpm spring is in where should this stop be set?
#27
Adminstrator-ess
This thread has a good discussion of governor springs and defueling:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=140766
Set the high idle wherever you want. I set it so that it stops the throttle lever just before it hits the fuel line.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=140766
Set the high idle wherever you want. I set it so that it stops the throttle lever just before it hits the fuel line.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post