home made watermeth injection kit
#1
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home made watermeth injection kit
Im starting to make a watermeth injection kit and have a few qustions?I bought a snow performance 150psi pump off ebay and it come with one nozzel and about 15ft of hose.I would like to know if my truck with my mods would need two injector nozzels, and do i need a check valve? I have a window washer tank off a ford f150 that has the level sensor in it that i plan on using, and i also have a boost pressure switch.Now I would like to know what else i need to make it work good?
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Heres a list I copied off here in november, of a homemade water/mest kit. I can't remember whos it is. There is also another link in it how he plumbed it. Hope it helps.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/.../500/water.jpg
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/.../500/water.jpg
#3
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YES on the check valve ....
Unless you want 30 psi blowing into the lines...
OR -
you clould put a solenoid in so you can turn on/off the pump separate from the spray. I leave my solenoid on all the time and turn on the pump when I want it. Also it'll allow me to add a second nozzle later.
You can see it on top of the intake horn.
Now that I look - That's not really a good pic...
I'll get better ones later today.
Unless you want 30 psi blowing into the lines...
OR -
you clould put a solenoid in so you can turn on/off the pump separate from the spray. I leave my solenoid on all the time and turn on the pump when I want it. Also it'll allow me to add a second nozzle later.
You can see it on top of the intake horn.
Now that I look - That's not really a good pic...
I'll get better ones later today.
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Please note :
I'm going to be moving the nozzle when I get my CoolTubz...
SO -
pic 1 is the solenoid on the 2dn gen horn
pic 2 is the pump hiding behind the battery, only place I could find out of the way.
pic 3 are the 2 manifold pressure switches - low is set to 18 and high is set to 28 ( for the 2nd nozzle which I don't have yet )
pic 4 is the pump pressure switch which goes off at 45 psi so I'll know if I run low or out of WM
Not saying this is the best or even a good setup, just what I wanted..I'll be towing and figure my EGT's will start climbing on hills at normal road speed. So far I have NOT towed my trailer far but have noticed with the old H1C that at 70 the egt's climbed to 900 real quick on uphill grades along with boost. That's why I set the switches where I did.
All my former results are out the window since I put the 40 on and will really be usless when I get my sticks in....
I'm going to be moving the nozzle when I get my CoolTubz...
SO -
pic 1 is the solenoid on the 2dn gen horn
pic 2 is the pump hiding behind the battery, only place I could find out of the way.
pic 3 are the 2 manifold pressure switches - low is set to 18 and high is set to 28 ( for the 2nd nozzle which I don't have yet )
pic 4 is the pump pressure switch which goes off at 45 psi so I'll know if I run low or out of WM
Not saying this is the best or even a good setup, just what I wanted..I'll be towing and figure my EGT's will start climbing on hills at normal road speed. So far I have NOT towed my trailer far but have noticed with the old H1C that at 70 the egt's climbed to 900 real quick on uphill grades along with boost. That's why I set the switches where I did.
All my former results are out the window since I put the 40 on and will really be usless when I get my sticks in....
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