holding a load parked in gear
05-30-2007, 12:52 PM
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holding a load parked in gear
My 93 in the sig.
I can't park on much of a hill with my jeep and trailer behind me or it will slowly roll down. About 5500lbs load. Will kind of jerk and move 6" every few seconds.
The rig does not have anything I can feel for blowby when idling or with the throttle held open to 2K rpm or so. I change the oil at 4000 miles or so and usually still on the full mark. I checked the valve clearances and they look good. Old girl has 220K miles on her now. The head gasket has a slight (very slow) leak externally above the thermostat housing, but no bubbles or pressure in the radiator.
Normal or am I loosing compression? Weak valves or seats?
I bought the truck with 190K on it. It spent the first 150K of its life in Littelton? Colorado and I don't know much about its history.
Andy
I can't park on much of a hill with my jeep and trailer behind me or it will slowly roll down. About 5500lbs load. Will kind of jerk and move 6" every few seconds.
The rig does not have anything I can feel for blowby when idling or with the throttle held open to 2K rpm or so. I change the oil at 4000 miles or so and usually still on the full mark. I checked the valve clearances and they look good. Old girl has 220K miles on her now. The head gasket has a slight (very slow) leak externally above the thermostat housing, but no bubbles or pressure in the radiator.
Normal or am I loosing compression? Weak valves or seats?
I bought the truck with 190K on it. It spent the first 150K of its life in Littelton? Colorado and I don't know much about its history.
Andy
05-30-2007, 02:22 PM
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Thats normal, there is a lot of leverage there turning the motor over. If u think about the valve adjusting procedure, we can turn the motor over by hand with a socket wrench.
GET YOUR PARKING BRAKE ADJUSTED/FIXED. They put parking brakes on for a reason.
GET YOUR PARKING BRAKE ADJUSTED/FIXED. They put parking brakes on for a reason.
05-30-2007, 02:47 PM
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I need to mess with the park brake. The pedal was tied up to the dash when I bought the truck and have been afraid to try it yet. They usually stick on when I do!
I will be tearing into the whole system sometime soon though. New rotors, pads, calipers, shoes, and turned drums. Will try it then.
I will be tearing into the whole system sometime soon though. New rotors, pads, calipers, shoes, and turned drums. Will try it then.
05-30-2007, 03:17 PM
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Yeah, I have a friend with a 90 ford f-350 crewcab 4x4 with a 5speed n international IDI, it'll turn over with just the truck on a steep incline. Napa is about you best bet for parts for the rear, make sure to check the sticky before u get into it, there is some good info in there on upgrading the rear brakes.
05-30-2007, 03:26 PM
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Thanks.
I also have a non functioning ABS valve killing the effectiveness of my rear brakes that is going bye bye.
BTW: just saw your wreck thread, get well soon man!
I also have a non functioning ABS valve killing the effectiveness of my rear brakes that is going bye bye.
BTW: just saw your wreck thread, get well soon man!
05-31-2007, 12:59 AM
#6
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Skotch-blocks-----the Old Timey Cure
FIX THE PARK BRAKES !!!
The wife's park-brake pedal was also tied up to the handle, when we first got it.
Advance has an inexpensive brand of cables that seem to resist internal freezing-up better than more expensive brands;Tru-Torque brand---I think??
A MICO LOCK is worth every penny.
Also, take two longish scraps of six-by-six, or thereabouts, lay them alongside the front and rear trailer tire, draw the curved profile of the tires on the wood, band-saw just shy of the mark, or whatever saw you have.
Make two of these.
Now, when you park the truck/trailer, you have two nice custom-fitted skotch-blocks that can be slid between the trailer tires.
Regardless of which way the trailer tries to roll, it will be rolling against the block.
The wife's park-brake pedal was also tied up to the handle, when we first got it.
Advance has an inexpensive brand of cables that seem to resist internal freezing-up better than more expensive brands;Tru-Torque brand---I think??
A MICO LOCK is worth every penny.
Also, take two longish scraps of six-by-six, or thereabouts, lay them alongside the front and rear trailer tire, draw the curved profile of the tires on the wood, band-saw just shy of the mark, or whatever saw you have.
Make two of these.
Now, when you park the truck/trailer, you have two nice custom-fitted skotch-blocks that can be slid between the trailer tires.
Regardless of which way the trailer tries to roll, it will be rolling against the block.
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