bigragu

For those of you that have done the change out to 60 lb. springs, can you recall the identification color that was marked on your springs? Or maybe a Cummins part #? I purchased a set of 6 to change out my exhaust springs and I looked at my stock springs and they are identical to the heavy duty springs that Cummins sold me with a light blue stripe. In fact, all my stock springs were the same thickness and were sporting the same light blue band. I am the 3rd owner of the truck, so I'm wondering if one of the two previous owners had them changed out for the U.S. Gear e-brake that he had put on. Verification, please. Carmyne

bigragu

anyone got the answer to this one?

hertz

If you are second guessing your purchase. Take them to an engine shop and have them test the two and see if it is stronger.

bgilbert

Cummins part number for 60# HD valve springs is 3916691. I just did the job last night. My 60#ers had a white stripe on them. My stockers are all oily, so I don't know what stripe is on them at this time. When comparing thickness they looked identical. Made me wonder if a previous owner installed the HD springs. But this wasn't the case. The real test will be when you remove a stock valve spring and put it next to the 60#er. The 60 should be at least an inch taller than stock. Maybe more or less but they are significantly different in height.

bgilbert

Here is what I found via the search and it worked well. With only a couple changes as my alternator nut was not 7/8" and my head bolts were 18mm not 19mm. I don't know if PDR made a typo or 2nd gen 12V's are different. This is from someone at PDR, big thanks to them. Made the job simple.

On the Cummins B series motor you can change the valve springs on 2 cyl's at
a time. The thing to remember is that # 1 & 6 are a pair, # 2 & 5 are paired & # 3 &
4 are paired. You'll need a KD 2078 valve spring compressor, about $25.00 @ PDR or any
tool place that handles KD tools. A 3/8 drive torque wrench & a 1/2 drive torque wrench. 13mm,15mm,19mm, 9/16", 7/8" wrenches and sockets, .010" & .020" feeler gauges & a short flat screw driver [for setting valves afterwards]

Now clean the area around your valve covers, then remove valve covers. Use your 7/8" short socket and place it in the reverse position & attach it to the alternater nut. You'll only be able to turn the motor over backwards, but that is fine. Use the rachet to move the engine & watch your valves, you are looking for an intake valve to be on its way up [doesn't matter what cyl.] Once you've spotted the valve that's moving, lets just pretend that's it's # 2, watch it as it comes up. As it approches the top watch the exhaust valve, as soon as the exhaust valve starts to move down STOP That means that-that cyl. is on exhaust stroke [TDC] and its mate is on compression stroke.[you can check this by feeling the rockers on the other cyl. [in this case # 5] & they should both be loose] Now remove the rocker block, loosen the small bolt
first [13mm head], then the big bolt [19mm head] Use your thumb & forefinger to hold the push rods in place as you lift the rocker block off. You can now safely remove the valve springs [intake or exhaust] on that cyl. once you put that cyl. back together [the big bolt gets torqued first 120ft. lbs then the little bolt 18 ft. lbs. You can now move onto it's mates cyl & repeat the procedure. So now you've done cyls. # 2& 5, rotate the engine some more until you spot the intake valve coming up & the exhaust valve JUST STARTING TO MOVE DOWN STOP you're now ready to do that pair of cylinders. A little trick that makes things easier, when you install the new valve spring into the compressor, crank it into the tool to put some preload on the spring
before tightening the valve spring compressor, that'll make it a littler easier to get the spring on the valve. The reason for this is the KD 2078 is a short throw compressor & the new 60lb springs are a little long for it. When you do get to do # 5 & 6 cly.....the fun ones that little trick will make life much easier.

I will add you definately want that KD tool 2078 to do the install, I got mine from Napa. It worked great. The stock springs are short enough you don't even have to have the tool around the bottom of the spring, to compress it enough to get the keepers/collets or locks off the valve. For the 60#ers you want to use a set of plyers or the like and crank the spring into the tool before compressing it, since its longer. I cranked them in by hand a turn or so, then with plyers cranked it in another turn, which was enough. Don't forget to put the retainer on top of the spring before you compress it. Another tool that was HANDY was a extendable pencil magnet. A must for all toolbox's among other things. I would place the magnet on top the retainer to catch the keepers in the event they go flying when you hit the compressor tool on the top once you compress the stock spring to break the valve and retainer loose. I had to tap the tool with a rubber mallet once I compressed the stock springs, I couldn't figure out why the valve was still locked at full compression of the tool. Made a phone call to another member and he told me about the hammer trick. Once your 60# spring is installed the book says to take your rubber mallet and tap on top the retainer and spring to make sure the collets/locks are set or the like. Use the magnet to place it back on the valve or on top the retainer. Then with your finger or I used a plastic ink pin, remove it from the magnet then place it around the valve. You'll be a pro after the first spring you do. Super simple job. Afterwords I checked/set torque to all the headbolts I could get to and set them to 120ftlbs, most were very close. Be careful with a regular socket, on the first one I broke a Craftsman standard 18mm socket at that torque, had to use an impact socket.. as it was the only other 18mm socket in my box . Scared the you know what out of me cause I thought I broke the headbolt, yelled a certain obsenity.

Afterwords go about the valve adjustment procedure, I set them to 8/18 instead of the books 10/20 per Pastor Bob. I'm sure I left out some good info, but any more questions let me know. I am copy/pasting this PM into the thread for others in the future. Bill.

bgilbert

Let me also add, one might want to invest in a Cummins troubleshoot and repair manual instead of following instructions from the net . Also an oil pressure gauge is a good investment. After my install I noticed my oil pressure was lower by about 5psi. Made me think my engine was weak and had a tougher time with the heavier springs. KTA asked whether or not I loosened the locknut and adjuster screws before removing the rocker towers. I didn't. Upon reinstalling them, they didn't want to line up with the hole in the head. There is a dowel on the bottom of the tower for alignment I guess. With the adjuster screws tight, it doesn't want to set level etc. Instead of loosening them, I just tightened down the 18mm head bolt and 'brought' the tower down to the head. Which can damage the dowl, burr it etc, and leak off some pressure, and not fully oil the rockers and springs. I won't know for sure til I get time to remove all the rockers to find the damaged one. I only had time for #1 and #6 today, but they checked out fine.

Then again I could just have a weak engine. Moral of the story, a Cummins T&R manual and additional gauges are priceless. Without an aftermarket oil pressure gauge I'd never know with only the dummy oem gauge.

Edit: none of my rocker dowels were damaged that I could see. So, nevermind the previous info, just be aware of their orientation. Tight valve lash contribute to lower oil pressure or tight valve springs eh?

Edit: Heavier valve springs do not contribute to lower oil pressure. I found my autometer gauge was junk. Hooked up an el cheapo oil pressure gauge and pressure rose faster and measured higher.