Heater Hose Routing
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Heater Hose Routing
So on my '93 I'm trying to figure out the heater hose routing from the pipes to the heater core and need help.
It's a non-a/c truck
Does it matter which hose goes to which pipe on the heater core?
I thought I read someplace that it doesn't matter, but.......
Thanks in advance
It's a non-a/c truck
Does it matter which hose goes to which pipe on the heater core?
I thought I read someplace that it doesn't matter, but.......
Thanks in advance
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Ok, both pipes get hot to the touch but I'm still not really getting heat in the cab.
The blower motor doesn't seem to blow all that hard either but there IS 3 speeds to it.
Between the no heat and the cab leaking I've started looking at Toyota Tacoma's 'cause I've about had my fill of this crap !!!!!
The blower motor doesn't seem to blow all that hard either but there IS 3 speeds to it.
Between the no heat and the cab leaking I've started looking at Toyota Tacoma's 'cause I've about had my fill of this crap !!!!!
#6
you stated that the blower does not blow hard but you can identify three speeds. are you getting air movement out of your defrost and heater vents when selected at control panel? is there a heater control valve in one of the heater hoses and if so is it allowing coolant to flow through it and the heater core? also your heater box may be packed with leaves and debris impeding air flow through the core. once you confirm and/or correct these areas you should have heat. it would also be a good idea to build a winter front, this will help your engine get up to operating temps faster and be more efficient. will also provide cabin heat faster.
i can also speak to the tacoma as i am the original owner of a 97. it was my daily driver until i got my 90 chassis cab. the tacoma is a helluva good reliable small truck. its amazing how little repair it has needed. but i have to say my 90 dodge cummins is every bit as reliable and starts faster. and after fixing a couple minor issues the dodge has taken over daily driver status for the past couple years. if you get a tacoma make sure you get a 4cyl, they are much more reliable and fuel efficient than the v6.
i can also speak to the tacoma as i am the original owner of a 97. it was my daily driver until i got my 90 chassis cab. the tacoma is a helluva good reliable small truck. its amazing how little repair it has needed. but i have to say my 90 dodge cummins is every bit as reliable and starts faster. and after fixing a couple minor issues the dodge has taken over daily driver status for the past couple years. if you get a tacoma make sure you get a 4cyl, they are much more reliable and fuel efficient than the v6.
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I changed the heater core 3 years ago. The box is clean. There's no water valve as this truck has no a/c. It will cycle between floor & defrost but it seems defrost has the only heat and the floor just blows warm but at -35c I've got to wear a parka or freeze no matter how far I drive.
I have cardboard between the inter cooler & rad and the temp gauge goes up to 1/2-3/4 hot then back to 1/4 hot as the t-stat opens so I know it's working.
I'm at a loss.
I have cardboard between the inter cooler & rad and the temp gauge goes up to 1/2-3/4 hot then back to 1/4 hot as the t-stat opens so I know it's working.
I'm at a loss.
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#8
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I recently helped a friend install a new heater core in his 93. I can tell you that the "new" heater cores don't have the surface area like the old ones do. I mean that they run a significantly lower number of fins per square inch, then the OEM units.
This will impact the amount of heat your core can generate....less fins equals less heat. The more surface area the air has to pass over, and therefore draw heat from, the better your heater will work.
But you still should be getting more heat then it sounds like you are. I put the inspection/clean out hole in my heater box. I cleaned everything out at that time, and then 2 years later the thing was almost jammed full of debris again!! So maybe check that as well. The debris comes down through the cowl, into the side vent area. And is there is any residue debris in this area it will dry out and blow into your heater box.
Also check to make sure the vacuum pots are functioning properly. As well as the heater control door has full range of movement.
I know what it's like to run with virtually no heat...after 3 years of owning my truck, this is the first winter I've actually had any real heat.
This will impact the amount of heat your core can generate....less fins equals less heat. The more surface area the air has to pass over, and therefore draw heat from, the better your heater will work.
But you still should be getting more heat then it sounds like you are. I put the inspection/clean out hole in my heater box. I cleaned everything out at that time, and then 2 years later the thing was almost jammed full of debris again!! So maybe check that as well. The debris comes down through the cowl, into the side vent area. And is there is any residue debris in this area it will dry out and blow into your heater box.
Also check to make sure the vacuum pots are functioning properly. As well as the heater control door has full range of movement.
I know what it's like to run with virtually no heat...after 3 years of owning my truck, this is the first winter I've actually had any real heat.
#10
i had to check to see what -35c was, its -31f. thats seriously cold. i think you should get an aux heater in there while you try to dial in the factory stuff. there is one on ebay for $45 with free shipping that ends in about an hour and forty minutes. ideally the best would be one that fits under the seat. but for the money i would grab that one quick and mount it wherever you can. you know my heat blows super weak too, but i dont experience anything much less than mid to high 20's f. so i have not had a real need to mess with it as it will warm the cab fine. now when i get my ac all hooked up i will likely try to get after it and get the fan blasting. not sure what its going to take, maybe a new motor and squirrel cage?
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This is my 3rd 1st gen and the 1st one that the heater has SUCKED !!!!
I've been in -54C and never had issues with the other.
Right now at -18c I'd rather be driving my '72 Datsun cause the heaters wayyyyyy better than this pos
I've been in -54C and never had issues with the other.
Right now at -18c I'd rather be driving my '72 Datsun cause the heaters wayyyyyy better than this pos
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That's the other part-this cab leaks water like the windows open when it rains yet there's no cowl cracks. It'll drip onto my left knee from the header panel and I had new weatherstripping put in when I got the new windshield last year.
I'm soo frustrated I just put the For Sale sign in the window.
This thing runs awesome but with a heater that sucks and a leaking cab I just give up.
I'm soo frustrated I just put the For Sale sign in the window.
This thing runs awesome but with a heater that sucks and a leaking cab I just give up.
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So I took it out this afternoon and it dawned on me-adjust the control cables.
I did that and it helped but it's still not hot. I have a temp gauge and it was showing -27C outside and -4C inside the truck after driving an hour.
I did that and it helped but it's still not hot. I have a temp gauge and it was showing -27C outside and -4C inside the truck after driving an hour.
#15
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My crewcab leaks badly too. I don't even have carpet in there because every time it rains I have about a quart of more of water I have to mop off the floor. It's frustrating...but I can live with it until I get it all figured out. I'm into owning this truck for the long haul...so I will eventually beat the little things.
As for the heater...the fresh air supply might be the culprit. It should be drawing air from inside the cab when the heat is on. Maybe the control door for the fresh air is not closing?
I know in the A/C box that when the heat is turned on, the fresh air door closes. I'm not familiar with how the Non-A/C box is set up.
As for the heater...the fresh air supply might be the culprit. It should be drawing air from inside the cab when the heat is on. Maybe the control door for the fresh air is not closing?
I know in the A/C box that when the heat is turned on, the fresh air door closes. I'm not familiar with how the Non-A/C box is set up.