HE351CW - why reclock
#1
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HE351CW - why reclock
In order to run the stock wastegate on the 351, one can't re clock the turbo. I don't recommend this due to the oil supply and drain being probably 20 degrees off from being up right and this is not adviced by holset. HOWEVER, I did this to "test" the turbo and have no ill effects from it in over 25,000 miles plus the mileage put on before my truck.
#2
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some want the compressor output lower to intercooler, wastegate will not line up, im running with output high, and using wastegate on one truck, wastegate disabled/welded on the other
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So, the HE351CW can be installed in the stock/unreclocked position and use the wastegate to lower/regulate the output to the intercooler. Right?
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I see . . . The steel air tube wouldnt line up . . . No problem for me! TIG is my friend. BUT I may have a doghouse clearance problem. At stock position, where is the wastegate located? 12oclock, 9oclock (looking from front)?
Thanks.
I havent pulled the trigger on the HE351 though. With 31psi out of my H1C I'm not quite convinced about upgrading, if all I want is 250HP.
Thanks.
I havent pulled the trigger on the HE351 though. With 31psi out of my H1C I'm not quite convinced about upgrading, if all I want is 250HP.
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#8
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Yesterday, you posted that you could not get it to smoke at all with the fuel screw bottomed out, and a custom ground pin in your the pump.
This tells me more air is not holding back your search for more HP, fuel is right now.
31 PSI and 1375 max EGTs is what I see on my '90 12V with the just the fuel screw turned 1 3/4 turns.
I can get it to smoke plenty for me.
I have a 5 speed and need the extra fuel for faster turbo spool up.
This tells me more air is not holding back your search for more HP, fuel is right now.
31 PSI and 1375 max EGTs is what I see on my '90 12V with the just the fuel screw turned 1 3/4 turns.
I can get it to smoke plenty for me.
I have a 5 speed and need the extra fuel for faster turbo spool up.
#9
Yesterday, you posted that you could not get it to smoke at all with the fuel screw bottomed out, and a custom ground pin in your the pump.
This tells me more air is not holding back your search for more HP, fuel is right now.
31 PSI and 1375 max EGTs is what I see on my '90 12V with the just the fuel screw turned 1 3/4 turns.
I can get it to smoke plenty for me.
I have a 5 speed and need the extra fuel for faster turbo spool up.
This tells me more air is not holding back your search for more HP, fuel is right now.
31 PSI and 1375 max EGTs is what I see on my '90 12V with the just the fuel screw turned 1 3/4 turns.
I can get it to smoke plenty for me.
I have a 5 speed and need the extra fuel for faster turbo spool up.
#10
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I don't know why with the mods he has listed that it will not smoke...
I would work on solving the fuel delivery before messing with a HE351...
Once you can get it to fuel harder, look into a HE351 turbo to use the new fuel, and lower ETGs.
I have a used HE351 in my shop that might go on my white crew cab next winter, as I can get plenty of fuel, and my EGTs are "okay" at 1375 max during WOT on a steep hill.
I don't let the temps stay there for more than a few seconds
I would work on solving the fuel delivery before messing with a HE351...
Once you can get it to fuel harder, look into a HE351 turbo to use the new fuel, and lower ETGs.
I have a used HE351 in my shop that might go on my white crew cab next winter, as I can get plenty of fuel, and my EGTs are "okay" at 1375 max during WOT on a steep hill.
I don't let the temps stay there for more than a few seconds
#11
After reading through your other post it does definitely sound like you're out of fuel. Are you sure you are getting full throttle travel on the pump and full fuel pin travel? Also your fuel pressure at wot is concerning to me. That's low for stock injectors.
Most importantly if you are at the power you are happy with why change anything? A better turbo will definitely help things out and would by first upgrade if i were in your shoes. Then i would go from there if i wasn't happy.
Most importantly if you are at the power you are happy with why change anything? A better turbo will definitely help things out and would by first upgrade if i were in your shoes. Then i would go from there if i wasn't happy.
#12
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I would be hesitant to put a 351cw in your motorhome though due to the smaller ex. housing. It will spool great but you may find egt's to be higher when in hills. I really like the 351 with my 5spd but autos seem to like a little larger housing. Its definatly worth a try though!
#13
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Here is a pic of mine installed (clocked and unclocked).
When it is clocked you cannot use the stock WG, you will need to modify it, tack the gate shut or use a spring gate (best option). Unclocked causes the oil ports to be on a ~15 Degree angle which is not good for draining of oil and it may back up into the turbo. The silicon IC hose does not work for a 1st gen truck/IC, just an FYI.
When it is clocked you cannot use the stock WG, you will need to modify it, tack the gate shut or use a spring gate (best option). Unclocked causes the oil ports to be on a ~15 Degree angle which is not good for draining of oil and it may back up into the turbo. The silicon IC hose does not work for a 1st gen truck/IC, just an FYI.
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Fueling issues?
Thank you all for your attention!!! Again, my set goal maximum to 250HP.
Fuel pin/cone - the dragline shows up to the shoulder; how deep should I grind before it causes fuel pin leak? Can someone please give me a number? 45, 50, 60% radius, or fraction of an inch please?
Fuel screw - maybe I have one of these shorter screws. How long is yours, the tip up to the shoulder stop? I have 6 threads showing after the jam nut. Can someone please measure theirs?
Throttle travel - I admit it's not a true wot, it stops just when it hits the breakover spring, but it shouldn't be that significant, no?
Smaller exhaust housing in he351 - now that bill mentioned it, a 60mm compressor upgrade is sounding more apt than an he351
HE351 clocking - based on the pics, it will not fit in stock form in my rig unless re-clocked. It looks like at stock clocking, the oil line is at 2:00. Would it affect lubrication if it's reclocked so that the oil line will be at 10:00? It looks like the oil line will still be at the same height/level, difference is it will be at the other side.
More fuel - if I give it more fuel won't it cause more boost / higher psi, which is beyond my H1C safe capability? So I'm thinking Ive already reached the optimum balance of fuel and air, no?
Fuel pin/cone - the dragline shows up to the shoulder; how deep should I grind before it causes fuel pin leak? Can someone please give me a number? 45, 50, 60% radius, or fraction of an inch please?
Fuel screw - maybe I have one of these shorter screws. How long is yours, the tip up to the shoulder stop? I have 6 threads showing after the jam nut. Can someone please measure theirs?
Throttle travel - I admit it's not a true wot, it stops just when it hits the breakover spring, but it shouldn't be that significant, no?
Smaller exhaust housing in he351 - now that bill mentioned it, a 60mm compressor upgrade is sounding more apt than an he351
HE351 clocking - based on the pics, it will not fit in stock form in my rig unless re-clocked. It looks like at stock clocking, the oil line is at 2:00. Would it affect lubrication if it's reclocked so that the oil line will be at 10:00? It looks like the oil line will still be at the same height/level, difference is it will be at the other side.
More fuel - if I give it more fuel won't it cause more boost / higher psi, which is beyond my H1C safe capability? So I'm thinking Ive already reached the optimum balance of fuel and air, no?
#15
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If you are happy with the power, the motor sounds like it is running cleanly, so the fuel / air ratio sounds right on.