Have you checked your antifreeze mixture yet?
#16
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The only debate here is about the misinformation your spreading, not about your truck or mine. You're defending 100% EG based simply on the fact it works for you and choosing to ignore that a blend also works and works considerably better in all conditions. I've listed two issues from running 100% EG; Freeze protection and cooling, none of which are improved at 100%. You seem to have an issue with believing the science behind automotive systems, fine by me, but you're not adding to the value of the forum if you're recommending to someone that may live in MN that they can run 100% EG and not expect a cracked block in January. Not everyone will notice that you live in AZ where freezing conditions are rare.
#18
You are right in some cases, although I run 100% in the brand new rebuilds that I do. Trust me they are bone dry. I just never add water to any system that I own. The same point can be made, how do you know you are at ANY percentage. I am not trying to convince anyone to do anything, I would just like to hear real experience and not the repetition of the same data that any Google search comes up with. Anyone?
#19
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Hey Mark, do you notice any abnormal running temps? I'm not trying to pick a fight, I'm actually really interested. I'm can't imagine all the stuff I'm reading in my textbooks is wrong, but I think the reason they say a 50/50 mix is the best is because it covers the biggest range of possible temperatures an engine is going to see in a 24 hour period. (Keeping in mind I'm studying OTR/class 8 diesels.) 'Cause no one is going to come from Manitoba and go to Phoenix or Miami and want to have to change coolant on the way in order to attain optimum cooling.
I guess what I'm wondering is if you have any problems going to cooler parts of the country, or are you fairly localised? Or if you have any overheating problems in summer?
I guess my questions answer themselves don't they, as if you were having problems you wouldn't run it 100%
I guess what I'm wondering is if you have any problems going to cooler parts of the country, or are you fairly localised? Or if you have any overheating problems in summer?
I guess my questions answer themselves don't they, as if you were having problems you wouldn't run it 100%
#20
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Hey Mark, do you notice any abnormal running temps? I'm not trying to pick a fight, I'm actually really interested. I'm can't imagine all the stuff I'm reading in my textbooks is wrong, but I think the reason they say a 50/50 mix is the best is because it covers the biggest range of possible temperatures an engine is going to see in a 24 hour period. (Keeping in mind I'm studying OTR/class 8 diesels.) 'Cause no one is going to come from Manitoba and go to Phoenix or Miami and want to have to change coolant on the way in order to attain optimum cooling.
I guess what I'm wondering is if you have any problems going to cooler parts of the country, or are you fairly localised? Or if you have any overheating problems in summer?
I guess my questions answer themselves don't they, as if you were having problems you wouldn't run it 100%
I guess what I'm wondering is if you have any problems going to cooler parts of the country, or are you fairly localised? Or if you have any overheating problems in summer?
I guess my questions answer themselves don't they, as if you were having problems you wouldn't run it 100%
#21
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#23
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Just read your post again, the pre mix costs more? Here it's about a buck cheaper. You are paying more than double for the antifreeze...Mark
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I don't doubt that all of the property's listed for antifreeze are correct,except the claim that is is more corrosive, I just don't think they are as problematic as is believed. My vehicles never run hot. I also used to own a cabin in Pagosa springs Colorado (a very cold part of Colorado) and it has never frozen. According to industry data, when antifreeze freezes, it doesn't freeze solid, it sort of gels. It also does not expand when frozen, like water does. As I stated before, I do it because there is absolutely NO CORROSION, none, in the vehicles. No rust in the water galleys. The fact that it doesn't expand means that it will do no damage, even if it does freeze. I think that it would still flow frozen and very quickly thaw. What I don't understand is the venomous attacks I get about this. A forum is about open discussion, not shouting down opposition or different ideas. My experience is my experience and I act accordingly and, obviously, venomous attacks don't bother me either ...Mark
#25
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I don't doubt that all of the property's listed for antifreeze are correct,except the claim that is is more corrosive, I just don't think they are as problematic as is believed. My vehicles never run hot. I also used to own a cabin in Pagosa springs Colorado (a very cold part of Colorado) and it has never frozen. According to industry data, when antifreeze freezes, it doesn't freeze solid, it sort of gels. It also does not expand when frozen, like water does. As I stated before, I do it because there is absolutely NO CORROSION, none, in the vehicles. No rust in the water galleys. The fact that it doesn't expand means that it will do no damage, even if it does freeze. I think that it would still flow frozen and very quickly thaw. What I don't understand is the venomous attacks I get about this. A forum is about open discussion, not shouting down opposition or different ideas. My experience is my experience and I act accordingly and, obviously, venomous attacks don't bother me either ...Mark
#26
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You're hardly an innocent victim here as you had no problem escalating the personal attacks. Maybe it was the rainy day that had me on edge, so I apologize for coming off harsh, but venomous? hardly. I think we're arguing two slightly different points; you say it doesn't hurt anything and I say there is no performance advantage. This is the first time (in this thread anyway) you've explained why you use 100% and given anything close to admitting the shortcomings. I'll politely disagree that there is an advantage by any measure when compared to a properly maintained and blended (50/50) system and leave it at that.
#27
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Thanks for the reply. Like you say, real world experience as opposed to text books will often produce differing results. I don't recall anyone saying, (on here or in text books) that it would be more corrosive running 100%, and maybe on wet liners it would be better to have a stronger mix. I dunno, I'm no chemist!
#28
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This is from Yahoo answers...
It is not recommended to use 100%, but anywhere between a 50/50 mix and a 30/70 (30 being water, 70 being the antifreeze) mix is good. if you live in the south, 50/50 is the most you would want, but if you live in the north, 30/70 is a good idea. most people answering have been saying that pure antifreeze will freeze sooner than 50/50, but in fact, it has by far the most protection from freezing, if that were all you cared about, then that would be great! What you need the water for is to move the heat around, ethylene glycol (the main part of most antifreeze) is a very poor conductor of heat. also, the reaction that at least one answer talks about is for the boiling point, not the freezing point. the peak freezing point, as i said earlier is with 100% antifreeze, however the peak boiling point is with 67% antifreeze. the final reason for the mix is corrosion, and the best mix to prevent corrosion is generally with a 50/50 mix.
As most have said, i would recommend that you get the right mix in, but it is not the end of the world if you can't fix it, just use the right mix next time.
#29
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The car was over heating in cold temps but had poor heater output. Checked the heater core for a blockage but found none. Thermostat checked out OK as well. Tested the Antifreeze and found it Waaaaaay too thick. I don't remember the actual specific gravity now. Thinned it out to about 65-70% and all was better. No more over heating and great heater out put. No parts replaced on that job. Just removed the antifreeze and filled with a proper ratio.
On a side not, I have also seen 100% "freeze" too. Leave a jug of straight stuff in the bed of the truck at -65* and see what happens. Looks like a green slushy......
#30
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Wasn't my vehicle but I was the mechanic chasing down the low heater output condition.....
The car was over heating in cold temps but had poor heater output. Checked the heater core for a blockage but found none. Thermostat checked out OK as well. Tested the Antifreeze and found it Waaaaaay too thick. I don't remember the actual specific gravity now. Thinned it out to about 65-70% and all was better. No more over heating and great heater out put. No parts replaced on that job. Just removed the antifreeze and filled with a proper ratio.
On a side not, I have also seen 100% "freeze" too. Leave a jug of straight stuff in the bed of the truck at -65* and see what happens. Looks like a green slushy......
The car was over heating in cold temps but had poor heater output. Checked the heater core for a blockage but found none. Thermostat checked out OK as well. Tested the Antifreeze and found it Waaaaaay too thick. I don't remember the actual specific gravity now. Thinned it out to about 65-70% and all was better. No more over heating and great heater out put. No parts replaced on that job. Just removed the antifreeze and filled with a proper ratio.
On a side not, I have also seen 100% "freeze" too. Leave a jug of straight stuff in the bed of the truck at -65* and see what happens. Looks like a green slushy......