Gutted shutdown Sol.
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Gutted shutdown Sol.
Finally got around to gutting the shutdown solenoid. That is when I noticed the fuel leak at the banjo fitting just above it. Well, I wondered where the crumbs from the plunger went. Now I know. The top banjo bolt as most of you already know has an orifice hole in the side to provide back pressure for whatever reason. Mine clogged with the material that was hydro-lazed from the tip of the plunger. This may have over pressurized the pump and caused the banjo fitting to leak. At least that is my therory good or bad. The fact is after cleaning out the strainer and orifice and massaging the copper washers on a hard stone the leak went away. While I was there I played with the timing to lower my egt's but the low end power seemed to drop off a little and I put it back to where it was before I put it on the dyno on at Clairmont. With the new muffler and max pump tweaks egt's are up 100 degrees more at WOT (1500 @75mph) but the same at cruise (600-800). I did remove the banjo fitting on the outlet of the filter and drilled it for a 0-15 pound gauge, which I installed. Got 7-8 pounds at idle off the stock diaphram lift pump. I also opened the holes just a little. Now when I stomp it the smoke just keeps on rolling. Boost is a shade over 20. Maybe 22 pounds and spool up is quick enough. Anyone got a HX35 collecting dust? I'm in the market for more air. And I don't mean "Hot Air". I make plenty on my own. Maybe I could go with H20/meth. injection. Then my wife will have another alcholic to fuss at.
#2
Adminstrator-ess
I would suggest the HTT stage III kit. You really don't have the fuel for a big turbo yet.
If you want to get into water/meth for towing use, I highly recommend the Snow system. I think boost switch controlled systems are too abrupt for towing use, you really want smooth power application while towing. Stage 2 is what I have, but they've come out with a Stage 3 controller that also looks at EGT and uses that info along with boost to control the water/meth. Very smooth and doesn't use as much water/meth while towing and the boost only controller.
If your fuel pressure gauge one of those little underhood gauges? Unless you have a snubber inline you are gonna kill it. Mine lasted about a month. You should put a gauge up where you can see it so you know how low the FP is when you're under load.
If you want to get into water/meth for towing use, I highly recommend the Snow system. I think boost switch controlled systems are too abrupt for towing use, you really want smooth power application while towing. Stage 2 is what I have, but they've come out with a Stage 3 controller that also looks at EGT and uses that info along with boost to control the water/meth. Very smooth and doesn't use as much water/meth while towing and the boost only controller.
If your fuel pressure gauge one of those little underhood gauges? Unless you have a snubber inline you are gonna kill it. Mine lasted about a month. You should put a gauge up where you can see it so you know how low the FP is when you're under load.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yeh, I wasn't to keen on the needle bounce and it is hard to see the road when my head is under the hood looking at fuel pressure, but what the hey, the price was right....free. Down the road I will place the gauge inside with copper line and an isolation valve that can serve double duty as a snubber. But for now it is nice to know I got fuel pressure. I thought you designed your own watering system. Is HTT that much better?
#4
Adminstrator-ess
Nope, can't take credit for the water/meth. Like I said in my previous post, I think the progressive controllers are a must for towing. You can homebrew the pump, plumbing, and nozzles, but do yourself a favor and buy a progressive controller, either Snow's or Cooling Mist's. A switch controlled system is like hitting a nitrous button - it's a lot of fun empty, but it could have dramatic results when towing. Not to mention it would be annoying in hilly terrain.
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