brainfade

I had a simular issue and went through all the steps you've listed plus changed the output bearing in the T-case. The thing that finally fixed it was rebuilding the T-case. There was enough wear in the pocket bearing where the input and output shafts nest that the shaft would go "Crooked" under certain conditions and vibrate like crazy. Just a thought...

Subliminal

Rebuilt my t-case last weekend!

Thanks for the recommendation, though.

brainfade

Not to rain on the parade, but...did you mic the nose on the output shaft? Mine was worn enough that I had to replace the shaft and the needle bearing in the input.

Subliminal

Ha, no I certainly did not do that! Honestly, if that's my problem, I'm just going to live with it till it explodes, I think.

brainfade

Yup. Sometimes that's the best policy. Sorry I wasn't more helpful.

Subliminal

No, you were greatly helpful. I appreciate every possible option. I just don't see myself removing the TC again unless its necessary. I definitely appreciate it, though!

NJTman

Just offering to help another pooch in need.

Subliminal

So, this weekend I managed to take the transmission crossmember out of the truck and cut off the riser. The only issue is that the holes in the crossmember itself had been enlarged from the factory, so that you can get a socket thru to the nut that would sit behind the riser.

So, I took the bottom washer (big guy) and welded it to the bottom of the crossmember, so the bolt would stay centered in the hole, cleaned it and sprayed it black and reinstalled.

This seemed to have helped SOME of the vibration, but certainly not all.

My worst issue right now is this:

• When the truck is transitioning from 'under power' to 'coasting', I get a serious vibration throughout (above 60 MPH).
• If I hold the pedal just right, and keep it at that transition point, I can keep the vibration going.
• If I pull it out of gear and coast (above 60 MPH) it will vibrate the whole truck like crazy until the speed drops below 60ish.
• If I am accelerating it's substantially less.
• If I'm decelerating it's substantially less.

Things I've tried:

• In the front end I installed new kingpins, new tie rod ends, new drag link, new u joints
• New Motor mounts
• New Flywheel (bearing)
• New clutch (SB organic 13")
• Rebuilt transmission
• New tranny mounts
• Rebuilt my 205 myself (no new shafts, just new bearings/seals
• New rear driveshaft

maybe368

Did you change the king pins? Maybe you are dealing with 2 issues. I had death wobble at different speeds and driving conditions, no pattern. Bad king pins. I hate it when I cannot diagnose a problem, because I can fix anything, if I know what it is. ...Mark

Subliminal

I just updated that last post with the things I've changed. Yeah, the front end is tight now.

maybe368

Yeah, I thought you did at around the same time I did mine. That sucks. Hopefully you'll figure it out soon...Mark

ppiggppenn

Any chance of wheels being off-center? The cone-nut centering procedure per BK's post a year or two ago sure took the shakes out of mine.

Subliminal

Yeah, I think that's pretty much for the duallys. With a single rear wheel, I don't think there's any chance it can move like that.

Furthermore, I have a hard time wrapping my mind around it being something with the wheels/brakes when it seems to only do it at that transitional time, or when coasting out of gear at high speeds.

I mean, it's certainly possible, but just doesn't seem likely to me.

maybe368

In my experience, if it is in the realm of possibility, it is something to check. Just not until the more common/obvious is checked. But, in the end, all things should be checked, because we know it's something, Right??????? Or not, maybe it's a problem in the quantum world and it changes when we look at it, that would be my luck......Mark

Subliminal

Ha. I'm just worried its in my transfer case, which i already rebuilt, but maybe it's still in there somewhere.