sammy340

Well i ended up buying a whole motor the other day. It only has 90,000 KM on it. It's in quite a few pieces now. When the VE was pulled they didn't use a gear puller and just used bolts to push the gear off the VE shaft. In turn the bolts pushed the VE and scared the mahcined surfaces a bit. I took a look at it, and it does not appear to effect anything. The seal is still in tact very well, and the best thing is the pump only has 90,000 KM on it.

Now i don't know what i should do with it. Right now its just sitting on the shelf in the shop, but i think i might sell it to try to recover some of my money back. Or maybe i should hold onto it........ Anyway if i did decide to sell it what would be a fair asking price.......i was thinking maybe $350-$400?

The reason i bought the motor was to get the head port/polished/o-ringed so i didnt have to use my non-ic head



Jeff

wannadiesel

You could give it to me so I can get my 14 mm pump head on.

sammy340

make me a offer

bgilbert

How did they push the gear off? Sure they didn't use a hammer to beat the shaft off the gear??? Core price is about what your asking price. I'd find out if what you have is a good core, ie scarred machined surfaces etc. Some rebuilders won't accept pumps as core because of damage or missing parts etc. If good core, I'd take no less than core value. Be best to keep and build it, or send in for core/reman etc.

rlyons

If it looks ok to use I am interested in it. Let me know if you decide to sell it. I will be out of pocket from the 20th until the 28th.

G1625S

rlyons: check sammy340's classifieds

tboling

If u let it set to long with out fuel she will stick on yea

sammy340

Bill

No, they did not beat off the gear with a hammer. They used the timing case bolts to thread through the gear and push against the VE pump machined surfaces to pop the gear off. It's definately not going to effect the pump perfrormance at all. I decided to ask $450 and see what happens.

Should i be keeping some diesel in it as tboling expained? Where should i pour some down, the fuel supply?

Also, bill is there a difference in injector lines from the non-IC to the IC motors. I heard the connections are different at the pump. So i figured if i ever wonted to build up a pump i'd use a non-IC pump. Any help?


Jeff

bgilbert

Yes I want to know as well. I have a good pump thats been sitting dry for the past couple months. I know the pump I have on now, sat for about 6 months dry and it developed some rust inside, not good, but wasn't that bad. I'm sure much longer and it might not of been able to bolt on a truck and run.

The only difference in the lines is inside diameter. The non-IC'd lines are slightly bigger, not sure of the spec off the top my head, but will flow more fuel. The delivery valves are longer (and better) on an non-IC'd pump, but you CAN still bolt up either set of lines to either pump. Example. I had a IC'd pump with nonIC'd lines. Now I have a non-IC'd pump with IC'd lines.

When I was gonna have a pump built with the 14mm head, I had the choice of what pump to have built, my 93 IC'd or 89 non-IC'd. Brian Block said without a doubt the 89 pump. Better delivery valves and nice little ksb function that I know of. I don't know of the internal differences. With the ksb, you can unhook it, and gain 7* of advance ALL THE TIME, on a non-IC'd pump.

I think you already have an intercooler setup with nonIC'd lines. I'd keep it that way. I changed everything over to IC'd setup. Throttle bracket, its support under the head, injection lines, holders, etc. Only thing I ran into was the non-IC'd lines going around the intake horn and throttle bracket setup.

wannadiesel

I think the best thing to do for the insides of the pump would be to dump light oil (maybe a 50/50 mix of #2 and motor oil) into the fuel inlet while rotating the shaft. Keep the outlet as high as you can, and when oil starts coming out of there you know you have it as full as it's gonna get. Plug all the openings and leave it someplace dry with a fairly constant temp. If your basement isn't damp that would be a much beter place for it than the garage. Garages are terrible places to store anything rust-prone.

norberg

You can use wd-40 to protect the pump innards. spray half a can in from the top. when you do finally use the pump the wd-40 will smoke less than heavier oils

sammy340

here's a pic of the scared surfaces. The top one is the worst, but does not effect the seal in any way

sammy340

Bill,

If you wired you ksb to constant 12v on the ksb of a IC pump would that give you seven degree's of advance as well? Or do they adjust timing at a different degree. Maybe i should put my ksb on a my non-IC piump on a switch for a extra seven degree's when i wont

Do u leave yours unplugged?

I don't wont too much timing until i get the head oringed/studded


Jeff

sammy340

Well moved the pump downstairs so she don't rust.

How the heck do u get half a can of WD-40 into the pump when it's foaming all the time?

bgilbert

I removed the pump top on my spare and filled it with a tiny bit of 15w40 and the rest with diesel fuel additive. Only problem is it leaks out one of the delivery valve holders!!! How the heck are you supposed to keep it full of fuel? I have the delivery valve ring cover that comes in the VE seal kit, but it doesn't keep it sealed.