slatemd

Hey Gang:

I have a guy who has a 92 single cab 250, 4x4, manual with an 8' Western plow set up for sale.

200-K on the clock with a new battery, belt, rear drive shaft, and water pump.

It has rusted out shocks in the rear and light surface rust on the frame. There is some rust through on the rear bed skins and front quarters. Looks like manual windows. It has a bed liner and a tailgate that are in decent shape.

I might sell off those two items because I would convert this into a flatbed.

He wants $3,500 but I would not be comfortable @ that price. He is willing to talk because he has not sold it at that price for over 2-months now (there is a reason why, I guess.)

He bought it from the original owner and hired the original owner to plow parking lots with it over the past two years without abusing it. It is part of his fleet of 6-plow trucks.

He says it is turnkey and strong. I may go look at it today or over the weekend. Unfortunately, it would be a 3-hour drive round trip to go see this thing.

If I can pick it up for $2-K (or $2,500 on the outside), I think I would buy it. I would use it as a private property plow truck (without registering it) as well as it being a potential rolling parts truck (if need be) for Max. There are some nice items on it from what I can tell from the photos he sent me.

The plow frame and plow set up should be worth an easy $1-K.


On a side note: I just love it when sellers always tell you that the motor is worth $3-K alone! If I ever needed a motor, I would not R & R a 200-K engine
without rebuilding it (or at least going through it.) You could buy these motors rebuilt for $4 to $6-K shipped to your door (depending on how crazy you want to go with any internal modifications.) I do not think that is a compelling purchase sales pitch. I could be wrong though.


What say you about this truck and/or my motor philosophy?

Thanks

Doc

NJTman

Doc,

The vehicle you are describing doesn't sound unreasonable, even @ $3500, so anything you can get off of that would be worthwhile...... depending on actual condition.


Just sold what your talking about without the plow and got $2500. This time of year, a used plow is worth ~ $1500 if it is in good usable functioning shape

Q: what brand plow, and how was it serviced ?

you need to bring a blanket, and go underneath the truck, looking especially behind the fuel tank (frame) and the forward section of the frame paying particular attention to the 4 sections where the front springs are attached. Bring a screw driver with you to look for "softness"

Rear spring perches on rear leaves (towards rear bumper) also rot off

Look @ the front axle joints to see for "rust seepage" at the joint caps, same with the front driveshaft.

Look for major oil leaks.

Bring a jack with you, jack up the rear of the truck, and spin the rear diff. See if there is excessive play or clunking with the truck in neutral, while manually spinning the tires.

Look @ the backing plates on the axle (known for rotting)

Look @ the front dust shields on the front rotors (also known for rotting off)

Cracks in the brake hoses

Pedal position (brakes) high or low ? Low pedal could mean rear brakes need to be done or just simply adjusted.

Test drive in 4wd and listen for unusual noises in the transfer case.


Reality is, @ 3500 you're paying $2k for the truck by itself, and Sounds like a good deal

patdaly

Man, I wish I could find some of the deal Y'all come across, that truck in central Ill. is 5500-6500 all day long, and they don't set too long at that inflated price.

slatemd

NJT:

Private message sent.

Thank you.

Doc

slatemd

If what you say is true, consider the flip side:

Our cost of living here is over twice that of yours!

Thanks for your input.

I made an appointment to inspect this truck tomorrow or Saturday.

I will bring a jack and a blanket!

jerseybud

I bought a 92 plow truck once.
I would check the following as well as that above:
-Spring eyes and leafs- look for cracks and breaks
-Frame cracks- behind teh PS box and at or behind the front shock mount and near the front cab mount. Also look for cracks at the PS box frame plate which is NS1 for now.
-Frame rust- behind the fuel tank on the inside of the rail. Tough to see and easy to overlook.
-Bent front axle- a big plow and a diesel up front can be too much.
-Rust thru on the spare tire crossmember
I'd also look for bubbles on the roof at the windshield, and under that bedliner.

NJTman

Another thought.

Look @ the plow blade itself. Look for severe bend or dent in the scraping blade or board. If either are "bent" inwards towards the front of the truck, it's taken a good hit or two. This isn't a deal killer, by any means, as these trucks are really designed for this kind of work. It's just something to take note of.... and shows whomever was driving it wasn't as "not abusing it" as you might think.

Usually, that damage is caused by hitting a manhole or curb or something protruding up out of the ground while plowing. It's a major shock to the truck and driver too. Been there and it's a little nerve racking @ first, but it's usually what causes the damage to the plow. You can look for bent trailing arms that angle upwards towards the frame @ the back of the forward section of the trucks plow mount. They're the two bars that go from the vertical section where the plow's a-frame gets pinned to the front of the truck, and the frame above the axle where it mounts directly above.

Again. Minor bending ok... Major, and I'd just look more carefully @ what you got.

Still would be a good deal if all worked as it should.


T.

slatemd

I know about hitting a manhole cover T! I did it at about 15 mph in a parking lot many years ago.

I had a C-30 that I named "MF-er" because it was a BEAST with a nice simple 350 in her.

I have to tell you, the truck’s rear end must have lifted over a foot off the ground!

I snapped a gusset on the plow frame, had a bruise from the seatbelt, and my teeth chattered for at least a few days after that hit!

That was the first and last year I plowed snow professionally!

Stopped me dead in my tracks bro!

Oooffaa!

NJTman

Doc,


After reviewing the info you provided to me, it looks as though she's pretty rusty, and not a "road candidate"

If you're keeping with your plan to keep it as a "field standalone" for your upstate location, it's probably worth it. ... but I agree with you about the cost... as it shouldn't be what he's asking, but lower.


I just wouldn't put it on the road anytime soon.


Good thing is that the plow is worth some coin just by itself... especially that truckside mounting bracket. Although the cable plows work well, I really prefer the joystick, electric style. Either way works, but when you're doing a bunch of intricate driveways, the handheld units work best, IMO. For your purposes, it should work fine.


The biggest problem you're going to encounter is the rusty frame. If the frame pushes out of the way of your screwdriver, you may reconsider, or offer to buy it for the parts. You could easily do a transplant into another "better" specimen, and part whatever you don't need. If it lasted you a season or two would also be worth it, as the parts that are good are easily sold.

Good luck. Hope it's worth your drive.


T.

slatemd

Thanks T man! I busted my back today in order to free up the day tomorrow for a look-see. The blanket, jack, and tools are in Max. I figure that if I roll up in Max, and crawl around his truck, the seller will know that I have a good grasp on the 1st Gens. Yea, I did not like the underneath photos of the rear either. If I buy it and make it a flat bed, I would POR-15 the entire exposed frame rails. I am concerned about the rear brake lines. We will see. My plan is to set up my guy in the morning and head out when he can run by himself. If not, I’ll go out Saturday without any pressure as so I can take my time going through what everyone posted I should go through. What do you think the rears are?

Thanks.

Doc

NJTman

I believe that the rears (gear ratio's) most popular are the 354's with the Slushbox trans, but could be different due to the 5 speed. I'm sure someone will chime in. 307 or 410 are the other options, I think.

Dana 60 front and dana 70 rear. Check the tag on the rear to be certain, although as long as it's in good shape, won't matter much.


Why the flatbed ? Moving your still from up state ? Moonshine not selling up there ?


T.

sootnsmoke

I have never snow plowed before but I would think the 4.10's, if it had them, would be a big plus snow plowing. Crawling around at lower speeds and pushing weight around is about the only real plus for that ratio in a 12v cummins that I can think of. If the factory sticker is still under the hood front edge (driver side), it will display the ratio right there for you as well. I have 4.10's and I can tell you, if there is stock size tires on the truck, moving loads around at low city street speeds is effortless.

slatemd

Good point Soot, I'll check when I get there.

The moonshine still is working great!
Of course I am refering to my WVO collection/filtration system(s).

A a flat bed truck is great to have especially one owns a fork lift.

Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, forklift,
Goooooooooooooooood!

NJTman

My 92 had the original owners manual in it.... and still does.


It specifically states (in a section of the book dedicated to snow plowing) that the truck is highly suggested (if not required) to be in 4Low when plowing snow... and to be shifted back out when leaving the plow site.

I never knew this until I read it, but it makes sense, especially since I have a slushbox.

I guess I should re-read it to clarify the requirement.

NJTman

I'll take a bottle to go, please !

I need something to keep in my gasser pickup, just in case I run out of fuel.