I am going to have my pump (VE6) rebuilt. I am assuming that when they rebuild it, I'll get it back set at #1 TDC. When I pull the VE, do I have to set rotation to that or can I simply rotate the rebuilt pump back to align with the keyway and install? It would be easier to just buy a pump off the shelf from them, but I would like to have a spring installed at the same time. Thanks for any info.

 

When I bought my rebuilt VE it was locked at #1 TDC. You would use a barring tool to rotate the engine to #1 TDC and then install the pump. There is a series of 3 videos on YouTube that gives a complete procedure on how to R&R the VE.

Here's a link to the first one and the other 2 are nearby.


Edwin

 

I never thought that it was possible to rotate the engine after the pump was removed. The procedure in the vid shows that exactly. The reason for my asking this in the first place was because of that exact difficulty in trying to get to TDC with the pump installed. Thanks again.

 

I would rotate the engine to TDC on #1 before you take your pump out as the new one will likely come that way. But at the end of the day you can just turn the pump shaft so that the key way lines up with the gear on the engine. I would not however turn the engine with the injection pump removed.

 

I pulled the pump after dark tonight. I want to look tomorrow and see if the drive gear is visible and meshed with the pump gear. The video from Chrysler indicates that it should be. I agree that unless I can see the gears meshing, I won't rotate the engine. I hope everything goes as the video shows. I would like to see if the driven gear lines up like the video shows.

 

Cool videos. Thanks.
So do you need the special puller to get the pump drive gear off?

 

The tools are all available on Amazon. The tool for the IP gear is a round plate with screws. Amazon is the cheapest place I found for the tools. I just ordered the moon wrench last night for 19 bucks. I've pulled that pump 6 or 7 times already and that bottom nut was a bear even with s wrenches from the tool store. The puller is

 

I have a steering wheel puller to pull mine. In fact I may even use it someday to pull my steering wheel.

Edwin

 

You can look at Jungles frame boxing / steering box brace kit he sells.
You can find him over at RCC [Ram Charger Central]
It is a weld in boxing option that the steering box bolts through.

That being said I did install the FSS crossover steering brace on my '93 club cab 2wd to 4x4 build I am doing in the shop. It was on the expensive side, but boy does it look like it will fix any steering woes from now on. I had a cracked steering plate and some cracks in the frame itself behind the steering box.
I find the '92/'93 8 inch frames have a "crumple zone" bend in the front of the frame, where they commonly start to crack.

EDIT:
I posted this reply in the wrong thread...I thought I posted this in the thread about steering box bracing options.

 

For that you get 50 lashes with a wet noodle!

 

Everything is as it should be on the beast now. I got my smoke problem fixed (actually it fixed it's self). U S Diesel seems to have done a great job on the rebuild. I do plan in the near future to drop the tank and check the fuel sock. This truck has never bled like any diesel I ever worked on, but they were all military rigs with intank electric pumps. I installed a fuel pressure gauge and I am getting 8 pounds at the filter. I got a pack of 12 mm crush washers to go through and replace all the ones I have been reusing. Right now it runs great and starts with a bump of the starter so I am happy. Thanks for all the help.

 

Good deal, thanks for letting us know. Sounds like she's starting like a Cummins should!