Lately my tranny (getrage 360 5-speed) has been making some funny noises when I shift from 4th to 3rd gear. It seems to only happen when I'm shifting down at a decent clip (60km/h+ or 40 mph+). Its making a grinding noise like something internally isn't engaging properly. Also today I went to shift from 3rd to 2nd and it did the same grinding noise again .

Is my tranny telling me that it plans on grenading sometime soon? I changed the oil in it (and overfilled it a quart) with Mobil SuperSyn 5W30 about a month ago. I am generally careful with my shifts ie not race shifting it. I have done some faster shifts a bit but not all the time.

Any suggestions as to what might be causing this? I'm scared that I might have to get it overhauled .

PS What are some upgrades that I can do to the getrag tranny (besides overfilling it) to help cope with more power?

 

Overfilling by one quart, change fluid once a year, don't lug the engine, especially in 5th, don't speed shift, start in 1st gear, let out the clutch in every gear before getting into the fuel, when downshifting don't do it to where the engine rpm's flare up once you drop it down and get off the clutch. Don't sled pull, oh and keep power levels to 160hp 400ftlb at the flywheel LOL.

 

Don't down shift!!
It sounds like your sychros may be wearing out and when you try down shifting they don't work so well and then well you just grind the gears. Try shifting like your not going to use the clutch but then use it anyways. Also mine does the same thing when shifting from 2nd to 3rd especially when its cold, so I just double clutch and problem solved, no grinding. Use the service brakes to slow down thats what there there for. I only down shift in emergencies, when I want to slow down fast, or when pulling a trailer. And even then I use the brakes more than anything. Also when you down shift you are using the clutch to bring the engine rpm's up right? so your really wearing your clutch out faster.

 

Yeah, even with brand new sychros mine is not happy about high speed downshifts. I double clutch on the way down most of the time anyway.

 

Ok, Ill stop downshifting when my speed is up. 90% of the time when I'm downshifting its because I on a long hill (IE 4th to 3rd) and thats when it grinds. I usually slow down a bit on the hill and then downshift and continue.

Thanks for the info guys!

 

Just double clutch it and match the RPM to road speed when you let the clutch out. It takes a little practice, but it's fun once you get used to it.

 

wanna

Be careful or you will have to explain "double clutch" method..............LOL

 

put a tranny cooler on it, it will at least double the trans life if your towing stuff.

 

Sadly I don't know the "double clutch" technique. Could someone explain it to me? **** I'm 16 and I thought I knew everything lol.

 

You had to ask . . .

As most people realize, when you shift gears, the vehicle keeps going approximately the same speed, but the engine speed changes drastically from one gear to the next.

It follows from this, that to get the set of gears into which you are shifting to engage, you need to change the speed of the transmission input shaft from its speed associated with the set of gears that you are disengaging.

Most car and pick up truck transmissions have synchronizers, or little clutch rings, to slow down or speed up the transmission input shaft for you when you shift. Real transmissions (LOL), however, don't have anything in them to change the input shaft speed. The operator must use the engine to slow down the input shaft for the next gear (when up-shifting) or speed up the input shaft (when down-shifting), i.e. when up shifting: simultaneously release the accelerator and depress the clutch, shift the transmission into neutral, release the clutch while having allowed the engine speed to fall to that which is appropriate for the next gear, depress the clutch, shift the transmission into the next gear while holding the engine speed constant, release the clutch and then depress the accelerator as necessary . . . and when down shifting: simultaneously depress, or release depending on conditions, the accelerator to relieve the load on the drivetrain and depress the clutch, shift into neutral, depress the accelerator to raise the engine speed to that appropriate for the next gear, depress the clutch, shift into the next gear while mainting the appropriate engine speed, release the clutch, accelerate or decelerate as necessary.

If you are really good, you can omit depressing the clutch, except on initial start-up.

The 4 to 3 shift can only happen if the engine rpms are below about 1600 (assuming that you have a stock governor spring). On a steep hill you will need to bring her up to 2600 from 1500 or so to make that shift.

You should never, ever, ever,ever, slip the clutch while downshifting. Do that with a leather cone clutch, and you'll be walking home. I guess that's why they don't use those anymore

That is the theory, at least. I always wish that I were a better driver. It makes the machinery last longer.

 

Basically what Alec means is: once you are in neutral, let the clutch out and stomp on the gas, just a quick blip, then push the clutch back in and shift before the engine slows down. Keep your foot on the accelerator a little bit so you won't have to slip the clutch once you have it back in gear. That's as good as most of us get. A little practice and you'll be as good as Alec.

I don't have the guts to try shifting the Getrag without the clutch. Funny thing is, I drive a 10 speed all day, and I couldn't drive that thing WITH the clutch to save my life.