Getrag limits hp&tq limits?
#2
Stock form? Even stock motors tear em up after a while. Not sure what you mean by "going all out" or how many miles are on your truck, but I don't think they'll handle much more than what you have for long. Mine is still in factory form, but 4th and 5th are getting tired when loaded. Complete rebuild or nv4500 is on my to-do list.
#3
I'm a firm believer in it's all in how you treat your vehicle. Don't tow in 5th. Don't drag race the getrag. Easy shifting (they aren't meant to be slammed through the gears). Overfill them by a quart (even get those aluminum finned pto cover extensions and fill them more) for better cooling.
Case in point. I have a 99 Trans Am. Motor modded, subframe connectors, six speed. 190000 miles. Drive it everyday. The puny, 7.5" ring gear/pinion assembly in that weak baby 10 inch axle, should have fragged long ago according to everyone on the ls1 forum. I need to upgrade to a 9" because "That is the only axles that can withstand the abuse from the corvette engine and 6 speed." Blah, blah, blah. I was in my rear axle about 12K miles ago. I had to change wheel bearings. The centersection was still just as tight as the day it rolled from the showroom. Backlash less than .0010". Why? Because I take care of it. I don't feel the need to drag race everytime the light turns green. I shift it gently. Just my
Case in point. I have a 99 Trans Am. Motor modded, subframe connectors, six speed. 190000 miles. Drive it everyday. The puny, 7.5" ring gear/pinion assembly in that weak baby 10 inch axle, should have fragged long ago according to everyone on the ls1 forum. I need to upgrade to a 9" because "That is the only axles that can withstand the abuse from the corvette engine and 6 speed." Blah, blah, blah. I was in my rear axle about 12K miles ago. I had to change wheel bearings. The centersection was still just as tight as the day it rolled from the showroom. Backlash less than .0010". Why? Because I take care of it. I don't feel the need to drag race everytime the light turns green. I shift it gently. Just my
#4
I'm a firm believer in it's all in how you treat your vehicle. Don't tow in 5th. Don't drag race the getrag. Easy shifting (they aren't meant to be slammed through the gears). Overfill them by a quart (even get those aluminum finned pto cover extensions and fill them more) for better cooling.
Case in point. I have a 99 Trans Am. Motor modded, subframe connectors, six speed. 190000 miles. Drive it everyday. The puny, 7.5" ring gear/pinion assembly in that weak baby 10 inch axle, should have fragged long ago according to everyone on the ls1 forum. I need to upgrade to a 9" because "That is the only axles that can withstand the abuse from the corvette engine and 6 speed." Blah, blah, blah. I was in my rear axle about 12K miles ago. I had to change wheel bearings. The centersection was still just as tight as the day it rolled from the showroom. Backlash less than .0010". Why? Because I take care of it. I don't feel the need to drag race everytime the light turns green. I shift it gently. Just my
Case in point. I have a 99 Trans Am. Motor modded, subframe connectors, six speed. 190000 miles. Drive it everyday. The puny, 7.5" ring gear/pinion assembly in that weak baby 10 inch axle, should have fragged long ago according to everyone on the ls1 forum. I need to upgrade to a 9" because "That is the only axles that can withstand the abuse from the corvette engine and 6 speed." Blah, blah, blah. I was in my rear axle about 12K miles ago. I had to change wheel bearings. The centersection was still just as tight as the day it rolled from the showroom. Backlash less than .0010". Why? Because I take care of it. I don't feel the need to drag race everytime the light turns green. I shift it gently. Just my
#5
The Getrag 360 is a heavy duty transmission. All the gears and bearings are oversized. I would say it can handle whatever you want at it. Even with a HD clutch kit. The problem where it won't last is;
Clutch dumps
Not using the gears for what they're made for.
Lack of lube.
If you're going to be whooping the transmission(heavy heavy hauling) then maybe look into a oil circulating pump with an oil cooler.
#6
Mine went nearly 300K before it was rebuilt. Only because the syncros were getting tired. Though I didn't have a high (per say) power output, it did have a steady diet of heavy hauling. I also used 5th gear on the flats. All I did was change the oil plus 1 qt every 10K mile. I miss that truck.
#7
I've had no issue with mine. Never dynoed, but running a decent amount of power for a VE. Stock clutch said bye bye fairly soon after turning up the wick, but no issues with the Getrag. I don't do stupid things to it, and I've overfilled it with Royal Purple Syncromax.
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#11
Sometimes I have to remind myself that not everybody agrees with my opinion of longevity. My motor was bone stock for 90% of its life, and isn't very far from it now. I've never ran around dumping the clutch, I've never tried to race anybody with a work truck. I'm also the only one that answered you with miles in my Sig. I'm over a half million miles. I've never needed a wrench on the motor or the getrag, but my motor runs as good as it did 20 years ago, and my getrag is tired. So, even a stock motor will tear one up after a "while" but nothing lasts forever. Glad to hear all the good reports though, maybe I'll rebuild instead of swapping. Good luck man.
#12
Sometimes I have to remind myself that not everybody agrees with my opinion of longevity. My motor was bone stock for 90% of its life, and isn't very far from it now. I've never ran around dumping the clutch, I've never tried to race anybody with a work truck. I'm also the only one that answered you with miles in my Sig. I'm over a half million miles. I've never needed a wrench on the motor or the getrag, but my motor runs as good as it did 20 years ago, and my getrag is tired. So, even a stock motor will tear one up after a "while" but nothing lasts forever. Glad to hear all the good reports though, maybe I'll rebuild instead of swapping. Good luck man.
#13
The "360" in the Getrag's name: G360, indicates its intended continuous torque rating. 360lb-ft continuous.
So, yes, the stock Cummins is capable of "overpowering" said rating in stock trim.
But, please remember, it's only a rating. The Getrag will live a long happy life if you drive your truck, like a truck. And not a 71' AAR CUDA with a 340 and an A-833.
Overfill one quart with synthetic 10W-30, confirm proper pre-load on the bearings, and don't over-heat it.
Another thing to consider: at low RPM, the Cummins can hammer out some pretty strong "power-pulses". Keep the RPM's over 1500ish as much as possible. This will pay HUGE dividends in transmission longevity. And your clutch disk will also thank you. In other words, don't lug the engine. 2000RPM is the sweet-spot for a VE Cummins. That is where it is most efficient. And also where it runs the smoothest. Try and keep it between 1500-2000 and your truck will be a happy truck.
I personally LOVE the Getrag. I have had them both (Getrag and NV4500) apart side by side. And the only "real" benefit I see that the NV4500 has over the Getrag is the span between the bearings is shorter (because 5th gear is outside of the main case in the NV4500). I will take the piece of mind of knowing that all my gears are going to stay put, over a little nicer shifting, and supposedly higher torque rating any day. NOT a NV4500 fan here.
Edit: I chose the word "hammer" above for a reason. It is exactly what lugging that big Cummins does to your tranny.
So, yes, the stock Cummins is capable of "overpowering" said rating in stock trim.
But, please remember, it's only a rating. The Getrag will live a long happy life if you drive your truck, like a truck. And not a 71' AAR CUDA with a 340 and an A-833.
Overfill one quart with synthetic 10W-30, confirm proper pre-load on the bearings, and don't over-heat it.
Another thing to consider: at low RPM, the Cummins can hammer out some pretty strong "power-pulses". Keep the RPM's over 1500ish as much as possible. This will pay HUGE dividends in transmission longevity. And your clutch disk will also thank you. In other words, don't lug the engine. 2000RPM is the sweet-spot for a VE Cummins. That is where it is most efficient. And also where it runs the smoothest. Try and keep it between 1500-2000 and your truck will be a happy truck.
I personally LOVE the Getrag. I have had them both (Getrag and NV4500) apart side by side. And the only "real" benefit I see that the NV4500 has over the Getrag is the span between the bearings is shorter (because 5th gear is outside of the main case in the NV4500). I will take the piece of mind of knowing that all my gears are going to stay put, over a little nicer shifting, and supposedly higher torque rating any day. NOT a NV4500 fan here.
Edit: I chose the word "hammer" above for a reason. It is exactly what lugging that big Cummins does to your tranny.
#14
Without a stock tach, how does someone know where 1500 RPM is? My 90 does not have an output for a tach. I have not spent the money to install a good after market one, yet.
My rag and clutch are getting tired at about 300,000 miles.
My rag and clutch are getting tired at about 300,000 miles.
#15
There is really no set in stone RPM to stay above. I just threw numbers out there as a reference. The point I was trying to make is: don't lug the engine, and just bury your foot in the throttle.
300K is pretty dang good in my book. A proper rebuild will set you back about a grand (before clutch). There are some obsolete parts now. I can't remember if its second, or third gear that is no-more (i think its third). And most of the snap rings are very hard to come by. That just means the rebuilder has to be careful, and take extra time to not over-extend them. Some are very tight, and right stubborn to remove. But, otherwise, most all the wear items are still available. And the G360 has to be just about the easiest tranny ever to rebuild.
300K is pretty dang good in my book. A proper rebuild will set you back about a grand (before clutch). There are some obsolete parts now. I can't remember if its second, or third gear that is no-more (i think its third). And most of the snap rings are very hard to come by. That just means the rebuilder has to be careful, and take extra time to not over-extend them. Some are very tight, and right stubborn to remove. But, otherwise, most all the wear items are still available. And the G360 has to be just about the easiest tranny ever to rebuild.