NJTman

Ok, fellas,

Jim Lane called me. Asked me how I went about installing the access panel in my truck's bed, so that in just a few minutes, I could easily access my fuel sending unit at the tank without removing the tank from the truck. Here's what I went about doing...

First I drilled a hole in the bed (1/16") with my drill bit to create a location point for the access panel.

I measured off that hole I drilled, and I located the fuel reservoir sending unit in the bed of the truck.

I put a welding blanket over the fuel tank from below, and I used a die grinder with a metal wizzer wheel to cut the access panel in the bed. You need to make sure that you DO NOT go down too far with the wheel, as if you go lower than about 1.25", you could cut into the tank, the reservoir or the lines. Keep the blade up and only cut to the thickness of the metal, and a smidge more

(google smidge if you don't know what that means)

Once I had the panel released, I used my magnet I use to hold pieces of metal together to pull the panel out. You can just grab it, but the magnet helped alot.

With the panel now removed, do what you need to do with your fuel reservoir. I replaced mine with one that Ollie sent to me, and since then it's not leaking out of the plastic return nipple on the reservoir. I suggest you order a NEW SEAL when you return the unit to the tank, as for the few dollars you'll spend it's worth it, IMO. I got mine from dodge, but I'm pretty sure that Genos or Rock auto has them.

The panel then went into my welding are of my little garage, and I welded some flat stock steel to the perimeter of the panel. I think I used 1/8" flat stock, but I'm sure 14 gauge steel would be fine as well. I used a flapper disc to soften all the sharp edges, and it's good to do the same in the bed hole cutout. No sense cutting yourself by sharp edges if you don't need to.

I used a piece of 1" thick EPS (Extruded Poly Styrene) to support the supply and return lines from vibration. This is why my nipples cracked on the reservoir.

Maybe I should have used hand creme on them, so they wouldn't crack..... lol

Once the panel is all welded up, drill your holes in your bed, and use a welding magnet to hold the panel up against the new holes (only two holes needed). Temporarily affix the panel in place, and drill out all your other holes. Using self tapping screws helps tremendously. Avoid using screws on the upper ridges of the bed, and primarly screw in the valleys. This will help when you try sliding something in the bed, and it's hitting the screw heads. My bed is coated in Line-X, so the screws remain below the surface.



Put the new panel back in place, screw it down, and use a flexible sealer up against the bed. I used a product called " Thumb Gum". Any electrical supply has it, and it makes for a perfect, easily removed seal against the bed. My bed does not leak, and you can see that it's just as if I never did this to the truck.

BTW, you don't have to use the exact same measurements I did. You can come a little further away from the bed front (behind the cab) to make your access panel smaller (shorter).

Have fun ! Keep a fire extinguisher by your side just for when you're cutting the bed. You just never know.


BTW... Jim Lane is a really awesome guy ! Never spoke to him before, and after 10 years on the site, it was great to hear a voice with someone I was so much in awe of for all the great work he's done here, on DTR. No matter what anyone says, Jim Lane is freaking awesome as a human !


T.



Cut out access completed. Note the flanged cover in the upper right

I used 1" EPS foam to stabilize the supply and return lines. This minimizes the flexing of the plastic nipples of the reservoir.


From bed front out

From sidewall out

finshed

NJTman

Watertight..... as I said

edwinsmith

Looks great TWolf. The only thing different I would do would be to use a countersink on the screws so the heads wouldn't stick up.

Edwin

mhuppertz

I need to do this, tired of not having a reliable fuel gauge. Will countersink because I hate my shovel catching on anything!
Jim Lane is Gold!

Is your truck extended cab, longbed T?

edwinsmith

Using stainless steel screws would be a good idea also. I have some steel inserts that can be used to permanently put a machine thread in there to make it easy to remove and replace the plate should you need to. The tool is available at Harbor freight but you have to get the steel inserts at McMaster Carr or FastenAll. The ones that come with the tool are aluminum.

Edwin

NJTman

Yes. Extended / Club cab 8 ft bed