wheelieking71

untill this issue arose, i was not aware that there are two versions of the piston pump. i can only assume i have the high-pressure version. my next question will be, is there a volume difference? and is there a negative to just regulating the piston pump? i have the opportunity to buy a complete P-pump motor out of a fedex truck right now for $900. the engine is complete minus the turbo. i believe the mileage to be approx. 245,000. i know its origin, and the seller is a trusted lifelong friend who's cousin is a fedex mechanic. he pulled the engine from a wrecked truck. it is a much more involved project than just resealing my VE, but very tempting! would i need to run a regulator still if i put a P-pump in front of the high-pressure piston pump?

downhome

I'm a moron that doesn't even know how to back flush his cooling system, so someone who knows will have to chime in.

The only reason I know about the piston lift pumps is from researching it to replace the diaphram lift pump I've got now.

Off topic: Is your truck still for sale? If so, where is it listed? The way things are going with my truck, I may take it down to the river bottom and burn it. And need a new one. The Salt River that is, I'm in AZ as well.

jimbo486

You won't need a regulator for the high pressure piston lift pump if you use the p-pump. The high pressure pump was designed for use with the p-pump.

wheelieking71

thanks for all the help guys! im on my way to getting him fixed up! i hope running with fuel in the crankcase didnt kill my beloved CTD! right about the time the vacuum pump quit pulling vacuum, is when i got it shut down. and i have started it twice since then for about 20seconds each time.

ofcmarc

I ran mine for about 1.5 weeks until I could get the parts to fix it and some shop space. ( I wasn't gonna pull the IP outside at -35*.......) Still running strong. I did however change the oil every 3-4 days depending on how much oil pressure I had. The fuel thinned out the oil enough that it would drop a bunch of pressure and I had trouble keeping it at 10psi at idle if it got too thin.

wheelieking71

finally got the pump pulled today. just for the record:





i have 1.5 DGK121 pump re-seal kits, a nice regulator, and a -ton of fittings to rig the regulator. should have him buttoned back up by next weekend! i miss my rig!

Douglas2

hey-Hey!!!,
Put the reg in between the filter and the IP's inlet. With the filter out of the way, set pressure just a bit under 15 PSI.
cheers,
Douglas

wheelieking71

some people should not be allowed to own tools!

KSB piston bore:



other side:



pump body main bore:

wheelieking71

here is the cause of the tore up KSB piston bore:



some gorrila with a hammer had a good time. so now i get the reassuring fact of knowing i rebuilt my pump when the main pump body is JUNK! YAY!

wheelieking71

does anybody know if you can buy JUST the pump body? (probably not huh).





** Want-Ads go in our Classifieds Section.

wheelieking71

i just filed all the high spots off the piston, and ran a small wheel-cylinder hone through the bores. its not perfect, or ideal, but its gonna hafta work:



the piston now fits well, and moves very smoothly with zero binding, and very little percievable "slop". my calibrated finger comparators tell me i now have about a .005" slip fit. i hope that provides enough of a seal to overcome the spring.