Caincando1

Super, where is the bleed screw? Anyone have a picture of where the bleed screw is?

Looks like I have a project for the long weekend.

flashgordon

It's up above the pump to the......left, i thing.....hopefuly some one with a pic will chime in

HappyCamper

The bleed screw is just above the fuel filter, slightly left. I don't have a pic, and didn't come up with one easily, though I know there has been one posted...

Caincando1

If I use all rubber will the lift pump have enough suction to colapse a rubber line?

flashgordon

High psi gas hose.... ? no it wouldn't but, i don't now how it would react to the diesel fuel for the long haul!

Caincando1

I found my answer posted by redleg.

Replace your fuel lines. I bought enouph hose from Napa to go from the tank to the lift pump, bi-passing the steel lines. The rubber hose has a larger inside diameter (which I think would help the lift pump), and if anything happened in the boony's, the rubber line would be easier to repair. My leak was rubber hose attaching the tank to the steel line. My steel lines were looking bad and only wanted to fix it once. It is possible to suck air without leaking fuel. It sounds like a good guess that your losing prime when it's not running. Probably not a bad enuff leak (yet) to compete with the pump while running.

flashgordon

Theres some place that has plastic lined gas hose that i don't think is afected by fuel..... if your puting still lines on and conecting them with small pease of rubber it should last a long time!

Caincando1

I found this thread and these two pictures showing the position of the bleed screw. I'm getting closer to figuring this out.

Flashgordon, I was planning to relace 100% with rubber instead of steel. I'll see if I can find steel lines but odds are it will be easier and cheaper to replace with all rubber. I guess I better find rubber lines that are diesel compatable.


https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=bleed+screw

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...edBolt-med.jpg

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...31Old_Pump.jpg

Caincando1

I unbloted the bed last night to make life a lot easier. Wish me luck this is the first time I've had to touch this truck with a wrench in 4 year(except maintainance) of owning it.

Caincando1

Eureka! Fixed, here is what I did in case anyone else ever need to do the same.


I unbolted the box, but left the bolts in, but loose on the passenger side. I was alone and didn't have any help to remove the box. So I left the passenger side bolt in and tipped the bed up using a floor jack and put wooden blocks between the drivers side bed and frame to hold the bed up. This didn't offer me nearly as much room and I had hoped for, so to it over again I would have called a buddy to come over and completely remove the bed.

Once I was able to get at the sending unit I could see what I need to do. I needed to remove the hose clamps that attach the rubber lines to the connections. These clamps where original and very rusted and wouldn't turn for nothing. I was afraid if I wrenched on them to hard I would break the plastic nipples so I opted for another route. I used a small rat tail file held at an angle and filed threw the clamps. I then cut the end of the rubber hose length wise along the nipple with a utility knife. This freed the lines from the sending unit. I then move to the engine. I loosened the clamp on the lift pump and easily removed the fuel line from the pump. With time being short I opted to take a short cut on the return line and splice the new return line into the existing rubber return line. If you have the time I suggest replacing the entire thing.

I then measured to see what size and length of rubber lines I needed. The feed line is a 5/16 and the return is 1/4. I purchased 14(standard fuel line) of each, a double barb connector and fuel injection clamps instead of the regular ones and a bag of wire ties for a total of $48 at Napa.

I then taped the two lines together to make them easier to feel along the frame rail. I started in the back by the sending unit and fed the lines along the original steel lines a closely as I could, using wire ties to secure it tightly.

I then simply connected the new lines to the sending unit and secured with new clamps. I then used the double barb connector to connect the new return line to the old return line coming from the engine. Here is the trick that I did to save me some time. Before I connected the new rubber feed line to the lift pump I used a primer bulb(used on outboard boat motor) to prime the fuel line. I stuck the suction end in the new line and pumped it. This quickly and easily filled the new line with fuel. I then removed the bulb and attached the now fuel filled line to the lift pump.

I then cranked the motor over till it fired up. It purred like a kitten. I let it run for a while then turned it on and off a few times to make sure it started fine. I then went for a spin around the mile and returned to check for leaks. The next day the truck fired right up so I know that I fixed my problem. So far so good, if I have any long term side affects I'll left everyone know.

HappyCamper

Congratualtions! Sounds like you got it.