DJ Turbo.

Which mine I think is lol and its time for a cia!

sewman

I guess I'll get my $.02 in here,I forgot what the reason was but I left
my oil drain overnight & when I went to take the filter off the oil was down a couple of inches & I've been doing it that way ever since.
It prevents any oil from falling out when you tilt the filter to get it out.

NJTman

BK,

Question for you.


If you upgrade your FF to the fleetguard unit, what do you do with the wiring harness that warns of water in fuel ? Just let it dangle ?

I was looking up where to buy these filters, when I came across this thread:
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...questions.html

Did they change the thread mounting in a certain year ? I don't want to buy a case of these and then find out my threads are different on my 93, such as this guy was asking.


Secondly,

I spent 6 years wrenching for a local Napa store / repair shop and saw them on vehicles back in the early 80's. Handy feature, and made for little or no mess....

But

If you put one of those oil drain valves on your drain pan, do you not restrict flow during an oil change ? Meaning that if there is any "gunk" that broke loose in the engine, and found its way to the drain hole, wouldn't it get stuck at the back of that valve, hence preventing it's release out of the pan ? Possibly allowing it to recirculate ?

or if the KDP fell out (on engines not repaired yet) and you didn't know it was there because the valve was blocking it's exit from the pan, then it could possibly block flow or be recirculated back into the engine.


do you think these issues could be troublesome.?


BTW....

Enjoy your creative writing skills

T.

NE frmhnd

As far as I know a B series filter is a B series filter.

That valve is a ball valve. If you open it and nithing comes out, stick a piece of stiff wire up in there to break it loose.

I don't know if the KDP could come out of the pan, but once it is in the pan, it's in the pan, unless you go running it upside down or something.

BearKiller

Although I have not yet had a Fumoto valve screwed into an oil-pan that was not mounted on an engine, to see just how much, if any, of the valves threads poke up above the pan's bottom, I have indeed seen the insides of many an oil-pan.

In every oil-pan I have yet seen, there is a THICK re-inforcing washer, and in some cases a thick plate of steel, welded inside the pan's bottom with the plug being threaded into this thick metal, NOT the paper-thin sheet-metal of the pan itself.

If fact, it is a very common problem on many of the disposable cars that have outlived their life-expectancy for the weld of the reinforcing washer to break free and allow it to spin loose when trying to remove the drain-plug.

It is such a common issue that the parts stores carry repair kits that include a new weld-in reinforcement and new drain-plug.

In each case, there is a depth of between 1/4" and 3/8", give or take, around the periphery of this re-inforcing metal, that NEVER gets drained and always stays inside the pan.

You bring up a good point and one I have already considered myself on a number of occasions.

If I can ever remember to do so, I will take a Fumoto valve over to my friends diesel shop and screw it into a pan that is not mounted, just to see how much, if any, protrusion there is.


I guess another way to know would be to measure from the top of the threads of the Fumoto to it's mounting base, then, with oil drained, poke a 90* pick-tool through the drain-hole and hook it on the top surface of the pans reinforcement, take this measurement and compare.


Carry on.

wisconative

any one know which Fumoto part # for our engines?

edit: looks like f-104 or f104-n is the one, does that sound right?

BILTIT

Yes that is the correct one.