Fuel filter changing and oil change info.
06-07-2011, 01:48 PM
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Fuel filter changing and oil change info.
Okay so the time has come to change my air, fuel and oil filters and I have heard some interesting theories as to how to change the oil on a first gen. The guy I was talking to said that what you have to do is let it drain for 6-12 hours and then put some regular 15W40 then after driving it for a day or two put in your synthetic oil once the other oil took the crud out of the motor. Now I know its not that hard to change the fuel filters on these rigs but I don't wanna mess it up so does anyone have a specific diagram as to what your supposed to do exactly cause I really don't wanna do something wrong
when I put it on. Thanks guys!
when I put it on. Thanks guys!
06-07-2011, 04:23 PM
#5
I usually do the filter first, and then leave the pan draining until it is just drops. I don't have two pans and removing the filter spills enough to make a mess.
cheers,
Douglas
06-07-2011, 04:55 PM
#6
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i tell ya a heck of way to get er' done. open the pan let most of it drain like normally, take a smaller punch, put a hole just below the threads. blow air from your compressor into the hole untill you cant hear anything but air comin out of the pan. then continue as normally with your oil change 
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06-08-2011, 12:19 AM
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Oil
Step 1
Pull drain plug.
Step 2
Remove old filter. I slip a plastic bag over the old filter before removing and it catches most of the dripping oil. Make sure the filter gasket stays with the old filter.
Step 3
Install new filter. I usually pre fill the new filter with new oil before installing.
Step 4
Replace drain plug. Fill with new oil. (Make sure to do step 4 in this order, makes a mess if you don't)
Step 5
Check for leaks.
IMHO you don't have to drain the oil for hours, by the time it slows to a trickle; I doubt there are more than a few ounces left. Unless you have major oil contamination, a few ounces mixed with 11 quarts of new oil won't hurt a thing. If you have major oil contamination, an oil change won't help your problem. I personally think in most cases synthetic oil is a waste of money. Unless you live in the Arctic, or do extended OCI's, and test the oil between changes, you may as well send the money you save on synthetic oil to me. My wife will use it to buy new shoes or something else she doesn’t need.
Fuel filter.
Step 1
Remove old filter. Slip a plastic bag over it as well to reduce mess. Remove old gaskets.
Step 2
Install new gaskets, pre fill new filter with diesel and install.
Step 3
Check for leaks.
Step 1
Pull drain plug.
Step 2
Remove old filter. I slip a plastic bag over the old filter before removing and it catches most of the dripping oil. Make sure the filter gasket stays with the old filter.
Step 3
Install new filter. I usually pre fill the new filter with new oil before installing.
Step 4
Replace drain plug. Fill with new oil. (Make sure to do step 4 in this order, makes a mess if you don't)
Step 5
Check for leaks.
IMHO you don't have to drain the oil for hours, by the time it slows to a trickle; I doubt there are more than a few ounces left. Unless you have major oil contamination, a few ounces mixed with 11 quarts of new oil won't hurt a thing. If you have major oil contamination, an oil change won't help your problem. I personally think in most cases synthetic oil is a waste of money. Unless you live in the Arctic, or do extended OCI's, and test the oil between changes, you may as well send the money you save on synthetic oil to me. My wife will use it to buy new shoes or something else she doesn’t need.
Fuel filter.
Step 1
Remove old filter. Slip a plastic bag over it as well to reduce mess. Remove old gaskets.
Step 2
Install new gaskets, pre fill new filter with diesel and install.
Step 3
Check for leaks.
06-08-2011, 01:30 AM
#9
Registered User
In my many years of reading, talking, watching, and doing, that is the first time I have ever read that bit of wisdom.
I never ever thought about it before, but I think you are right and I am for sure gonna give that little trick a try on my future oil-changes.
Thanks for sharing it.
06-08-2011, 01:43 AM
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What is ov I know that sounds stupid but I am just checking. Sorry about the sorta dumb question I just don't wanna mess anything up and secondly on the fuel filter you don't have to loosen the bleed screw? here is what a guy on another diesel site said I didn't ask the question just ran across it one day :I change it from the top, its not that hard. Fill the new one up with fuel, or do what i do fill it with lucas and howes, then install it. Loosen the bleed screw above the filter and prime the lift pump until fuel drips from the bleed screw and tighten the bleed screw. Then you should be good to go:
06-08-2011, 02:19 AM
#11
Registered User
>>> oil changing tricks <<<
DRAINING THE OLD OIL
Make certain to only drain the oil when the engine is at operating temperature; never try to drain cold oil.
The hot oil is more apt to burn you, should some splash or drip; but, hot oil will better fully drain out and carry more crud out with it.
Before attempting your first oil-change, order and have at hand a brand-new FUMOTO oil drain valve.
I have had them on everything on the place for several years and they are wonderful.
When I add a new-to-me engine, be it truck, tractor, loader, or what, the first thing I do is order a FUMOTO for it.
With a Fumoto, I can drain the entire crank-case, or just half-a-teaspoon, without spilling a single drop, and do so in my Sunday-go-to-meetin' clothes.
No wrench is necessary, only my fingers.
Plus, probably the biggest advantage of a Fumoto is the fact that you remove the factory drain plug ONE TIME, screw in the Fumoto ONE TIME, and never have the possibility of stripping out a drain-plug ever again, never ever for now and all time to come, period.
Enough about that; here are more tricks.
Remove the Old Filter
It is nigh impossible to service the 1st Gen Dodge/Cummins oil-filter without first removing that rigid-ey air-filter hose.
Although this is a big annoyance, it forces one to take the opportunity to examine the condition of the air-filter, plus remove any dead pigeons, Jap-cars, bicyclists, or whatever that may have gotten sucked into the filter housing.
Un-clamp it at the turbo inlet; remove the plastic wing-nuts at the air-filter housing; slide out the air-filter, with attached intake tube/hose, and lay it safely aside where no foreign objects can get inside that tube.
I cannot take credit for this bit of wisdom; someone else on this board enlightened me years ago and forever changed my outlook on oil-filter changes; --- save all of your plastic bread-bags.
Loosen the old oil-filter enough that it can be removed the rest of the way by hand.
STOP right there.
Of course, you just now found out that you need to save up a bunch of bread-bags.
Most likely, none have yet accumulated.
No problem; just run into the kitchen, or head to the store, procure two bags of the bread of your choice, open the bags, toss the bread to the dogs, and shake out all the crumbs.
Turn the bags inside-out so the crumbs that used to be in the bag are safely not in the bag anymore, but outside the bag.
Using two of your inside-out bread-bags, one inside the other, making a double-thick bag, slip the bags over the bottom of the old filter and slide them all the way to the top, as high and as much over the filter as you can get them.
Now, carefully spin the filter the rest of the way off.
The messy oil will remain safely confined within the confines of your bread-bags.
Turn the filter upside-down on an old refrigerator rack that is on top of an empty bucket or similar receptacle, and let the dirty oil drain into the bucket for days, until it is mostly empty.
Lacking an old refrigerator rack, an old oven rack will suffice.
Examine the old filter and make certain that it's O-ring did indeed come away with it.
Examine the oil-filter base on the engine and make certain that no extra O-rings are remaining stuck on there; this can and does often happen on all makes of vehicles and is the cause of many engines being destroyed from the oil-filter loosening and coming off while flying down the highway listening to Buck Owens or the Bee Gees.
Install the New Filter
Pouring through the ring of little holes and not the center one, fill the new filter with good 15W-40 CI-4 rated oil --- NOT CJ-4 as it lacks many necessary nutrients required for a healthy engine.
Stop filling the filter when it is about 7/8-full; if you fill it all the way full, you are certain to bump against something and slosh oil all over.
Poke your CLEAN finger into the clean new oil that is in the filter and paint the O-ring thoroughly.
Wipe off your finger so as to not get oil on your new filter.
If the filter came sealed in plastic shrink-wrap, only cut away the top portion of the plastic, leaving the rest on the filter until the filter is completely installed.
Screw on the new filter and hand-tighten; I like to always give them just a little twist with the wrench --- just to be sure.
Remove the rest of the plastic from your still clean new filter.
To be continued :
Make certain to only drain the oil when the engine is at operating temperature; never try to drain cold oil.
The hot oil is more apt to burn you, should some splash or drip; but, hot oil will better fully drain out and carry more crud out with it.
Before attempting your first oil-change, order and have at hand a brand-new FUMOTO oil drain valve.
I have had them on everything on the place for several years and they are wonderful.
When I add a new-to-me engine, be it truck, tractor, loader, or what, the first thing I do is order a FUMOTO for it.
With a Fumoto, I can drain the entire crank-case, or just half-a-teaspoon, without spilling a single drop, and do so in my Sunday-go-to-meetin' clothes.
No wrench is necessary, only my fingers.
Plus, probably the biggest advantage of a Fumoto is the fact that you remove the factory drain plug ONE TIME, screw in the Fumoto ONE TIME, and never have the possibility of stripping out a drain-plug ever again, never ever for now and all time to come, period.
Enough about that; here are more tricks.
Remove the Old Filter
It is nigh impossible to service the 1st Gen Dodge/Cummins oil-filter without first removing that rigid-ey air-filter hose.
Although this is a big annoyance, it forces one to take the opportunity to examine the condition of the air-filter, plus remove any dead pigeons, Jap-cars, bicyclists, or whatever that may have gotten sucked into the filter housing.
Un-clamp it at the turbo inlet; remove the plastic wing-nuts at the air-filter housing; slide out the air-filter, with attached intake tube/hose, and lay it safely aside where no foreign objects can get inside that tube.
I cannot take credit for this bit of wisdom; someone else on this board enlightened me years ago and forever changed my outlook on oil-filter changes; --- save all of your plastic bread-bags.
Loosen the old oil-filter enough that it can be removed the rest of the way by hand.
STOP right there.
Of course, you just now found out that you need to save up a bunch of bread-bags.
Most likely, none have yet accumulated.
No problem; just run into the kitchen, or head to the store, procure two bags of the bread of your choice, open the bags, toss the bread to the dogs, and shake out all the crumbs.
Turn the bags inside-out so the crumbs that used to be in the bag are safely not in the bag anymore, but outside the bag.
Using two of your inside-out bread-bags, one inside the other, making a double-thick bag, slip the bags over the bottom of the old filter and slide them all the way to the top, as high and as much over the filter as you can get them.
Now, carefully spin the filter the rest of the way off.
The messy oil will remain safely confined within the confines of your bread-bags.
Turn the filter upside-down on an old refrigerator rack that is on top of an empty bucket or similar receptacle, and let the dirty oil drain into the bucket for days, until it is mostly empty.
Lacking an old refrigerator rack, an old oven rack will suffice.
Examine the old filter and make certain that it's O-ring did indeed come away with it.
Examine the oil-filter base on the engine and make certain that no extra O-rings are remaining stuck on there; this can and does often happen on all makes of vehicles and is the cause of many engines being destroyed from the oil-filter loosening and coming off while flying down the highway listening to Buck Owens or the Bee Gees.
Install the New Filter
Pouring through the ring of little holes and not the center one, fill the new filter with good 15W-40 CI-4 rated oil --- NOT CJ-4 as it lacks many necessary nutrients required for a healthy engine.
Stop filling the filter when it is about 7/8-full; if you fill it all the way full, you are certain to bump against something and slosh oil all over.
Poke your CLEAN finger into the clean new oil that is in the filter and paint the O-ring thoroughly.
Wipe off your finger so as to not get oil on your new filter.
If the filter came sealed in plastic shrink-wrap, only cut away the top portion of the plastic, leaving the rest on the filter until the filter is completely installed.
Screw on the new filter and hand-tighten; I like to always give them just a little twist with the wrench --- just to be sure.
Remove the rest of the plastic from your still clean new filter.
To be continued :
06-08-2011, 02:51 AM
#12
Registered User
>>> more about oil changing <<<
Okay, we now have the old oil out, the old filter off and draining, and the new filter mostly filled and installed.
As per the information I just learned, dump a half-gallon of CLEAN oil through the oil-fill and let it drain on through; I assume this oil could be cheapo bargain-brand oil, so long as it is CLEAN NEW oil.
It would probably be advantageous if this purging oil were rather hot, thus it would move through quickly and have better chance to route out more gook.
Crawl under there and CLOSE the Fumoto valve; or, re-install that nasty old drain-plug after you fish it out of the nasty drain-pan.
ALWAYS use a brand-new oil-plug seal-washer if you are still using the drain-plug; this is un-necessary with the Fumoto, as you install it ONE TIME and NEVER loosen it again.
Anyways, make certain whatever means of keeping the new oil in the engine has been addressed.
ADD the NEW OIL
Take the oil-fill-cap to wherever you keep all of your empty plastic jugs and bottles.
Trying the female threads of your collection of lids on the male threads of the oil-fill-cap until you find a good fit, select a jug/bottle that is mostly roundish or squarish and of rather large diameter.
The longer the neck, the better.
Using the cutting instrument of your choice, cut the bottom neatly and squarely from the jug, as close to the bottom as feasible.
Now, back out at the truck, screw this bottom-less jug into the oil-fill opening.
This is now your official oil-filling funnel; keep it clean and store it away carefully, preferably at standard room temperature, for later use in future oil-changes.
Making certain that the drain-hole in the oil-pan is for certain closed, pour in the rest of your new clean 15W-40 CI-4 rated engine oil.
Remove your new funnel and put it out of harms way.
Tethering the Oil Cap
Using a drill with about a 3/16 bit or thereabouts, drill a neat hole, centered on the "wing" of the cap, and about 1/4" of meat left on the edge.
Into this hole, insert a split-ring key-ring.
Onto this split-ring key-ring, install a small chain-swivel, to which is attached a length of jack-chain long enough to reach that loop of GROUND-wire that is on the grid-heater housing.
Double zip-tie the jack-chain to this loop of wire, such that the jack-chain now tethers the oil-cap and it cannot become lost or mis-placed.
Sleeve the jack-chain with an appropriate size of RED plastic split-loom.
Screw in the oil-cap.
Blow off the air-filter and re-install.
Fire the engine and watch that the oil-pressure comes up.
As per the information I just learned, dump a half-gallon of CLEAN oil through the oil-fill and let it drain on through; I assume this oil could be cheapo bargain-brand oil, so long as it is CLEAN NEW oil.
It would probably be advantageous if this purging oil were rather hot, thus it would move through quickly and have better chance to route out more gook.
Crawl under there and CLOSE the Fumoto valve; or, re-install that nasty old drain-plug after you fish it out of the nasty drain-pan.
ALWAYS use a brand-new oil-plug seal-washer if you are still using the drain-plug; this is un-necessary with the Fumoto, as you install it ONE TIME and NEVER loosen it again.
Anyways, make certain whatever means of keeping the new oil in the engine has been addressed.
ADD the NEW OIL
Take the oil-fill-cap to wherever you keep all of your empty plastic jugs and bottles.
Trying the female threads of your collection of lids on the male threads of the oil-fill-cap until you find a good fit, select a jug/bottle that is mostly roundish or squarish and of rather large diameter.
The longer the neck, the better.
Using the cutting instrument of your choice, cut the bottom neatly and squarely from the jug, as close to the bottom as feasible.
Now, back out at the truck, screw this bottom-less jug into the oil-fill opening.
This is now your official oil-filling funnel; keep it clean and store it away carefully, preferably at standard room temperature, for later use in future oil-changes.
Making certain that the drain-hole in the oil-pan is for certain closed, pour in the rest of your new clean 15W-40 CI-4 rated engine oil.
Remove your new funnel and put it out of harms way.
Tethering the Oil Cap
Using a drill with about a 3/16 bit or thereabouts, drill a neat hole, centered on the "wing" of the cap, and about 1/4" of meat left on the edge.
Into this hole, insert a split-ring key-ring.
Onto this split-ring key-ring, install a small chain-swivel, to which is attached a length of jack-chain long enough to reach that loop of GROUND-wire that is on the grid-heater housing.
Double zip-tie the jack-chain to this loop of wire, such that the jack-chain now tethers the oil-cap and it cannot become lost or mis-placed.
Sleeve the jack-chain with an appropriate size of RED plastic split-loom.
Screw in the oil-cap.
Blow off the air-filter and re-install.
Fire the engine and watch that the oil-pressure comes up.
06-08-2011, 03:11 AM
#13
Registered User
>>> we ain't done yet <<<
Remember that old oil-filter that we left draining on the refrigerator rack, wipe it clean as possible and place it inside a double-layer of inside-out bread-bags.
Twist the tops of the bags and secure with a good long twist-tie.
Take a square or rectangle of heavy card-stock, double it along one edge, and punch a hole in the doubled edge.
With a pen, write the part-number of the filter on this card.
Also, write the date and which engine/truck it came from.
Also, write "good used oil-filter".
Using the punched hole, secure this card to the twist-tie that is already on the bread-bag.
Why on earth do we want to keep this old oil-filter; many reasons may pop up under the right circumstances.
Lets say you drive the truck off in a muddy old pond or leave it un-attended in New Orleans or behind some levee; you will use this old filter and several more in your endeavors to flush the mud and water out of the crank-case.
Or, it may be late some holiday night, with all the stores closed for several days, no one around to give you a ride, and no extra vehicle around to drive, you neglected to replenish your stock of new oil-filters, and you see big drips of oil under the truck.
You raise the hood to find that some errant stone has flew up and knocked a sizable hole in the oil-filter.
I have seen this happen more than once.
Lacking a new filter, that old used filter is gonna be better than no filter for a few days.
Likewise with old oil-filter O-rings; save a few and hang them on the same nail that you hang the oil-filter wrench on.
More than once, I have opened brand-new quality name-brand filters that were lacking their O-ring; no problem if you had enough fore-though to save a few spares.
Twist the tops of the bags and secure with a good long twist-tie.
Take a square or rectangle of heavy card-stock, double it along one edge, and punch a hole in the doubled edge.
With a pen, write the part-number of the filter on this card.
Also, write the date and which engine/truck it came from.
Also, write "good used oil-filter".
Using the punched hole, secure this card to the twist-tie that is already on the bread-bag.
Why on earth do we want to keep this old oil-filter; many reasons may pop up under the right circumstances.
Lets say you drive the truck off in a muddy old pond or leave it un-attended in New Orleans or behind some levee; you will use this old filter and several more in your endeavors to flush the mud and water out of the crank-case.
Or, it may be late some holiday night, with all the stores closed for several days, no one around to give you a ride, and no extra vehicle around to drive, you neglected to replenish your stock of new oil-filters, and you see big drips of oil under the truck.
You raise the hood to find that some errant stone has flew up and knocked a sizable hole in the oil-filter.
I have seen this happen more than once.
Lacking a new filter, that old used filter is gonna be better than no filter for a few days.
Likewise with old oil-filter O-rings; save a few and hang them on the same nail that you hang the oil-filter wrench on.
More than once, I have opened brand-new quality name-brand filters that were lacking their O-ring; no problem if you had enough fore-though to save a few spares.
06-08-2011, 03:48 AM
#14
Registered User
>>> used oil <<<
Okay, we have almost three gallons of good clean used engine-oil.
We also have three brand-new plastic gallon jugs that our new oil came in.
Cut the top from a plastic drink bottle, water, Ski, Ale-8, Big Red, whatever, such that this cut-off bottle-top resembles a disposable funnel.
Using this home-crafted funnel, carefully funnel the used oil into the empty jugs, making sure to not over-run any of them.
Once a jug is full, firmly seal on it's lid.
Once all three jugs have been filled, take some foot-long by two- or three-inch wide strips of paper.
On these strips of paper, write the date, write CLEAN USED OIL, write the brand/type of oil if known, and the truck/engine it was drained from.
Loop one of these paper strips through the handle of each jug and secure with a brand-new Stanley/Bostitch chisel-pointed staple.
Store these jugs of used oil somewhere safe, preferably in a storm-cellar or under the bed, providing you first sweep under the bed.
What do we want with this old oil you say; there are many things it will prove useful for.
An old snap-lid dish-detergent bottle, such as Palmolive or Lemon Fresh Joy comes in, when filled with used oil, makes a wonderful device for lubricating cattle-trailer door latches and hinges.
Many other lubricating tasks can be performed with equally as good results.
Lets say a storm blows over and root-wads that big hickory that has been leaning over the road for the last several years; you grab the 029 Stihl, fill it with gas-mix and grease the sprocket-nose; then, you realize that you are out of Bar-and-Chain.
No biggie, just pour her full of the used oil that we were smart enough to save; used oil is for certain better than no oil.
It can be used in any oil-less engine emergency, such as when you are mowing the back-yard and the oil-plug vibrates out of the 7-horse Tecumseh and you see where all the oil went when you make the next round; you just happen to not have any new oil and you are all hot sweaty and nasty and don't really have time to run to town; no problem, just pour her full of good old used oil and finish mowing; the Tecumseh will never know the difference.
Remember the muddy water we were gonna have to flush out of the engine; we are gonna use a bunch of this used oil to do so.
One more use for the used oil = you meant to get fuel before coming home, but those three three-bean burritos and that banana-split and cherry 7-UP you had before you got to the fuel-station have began a violent chemical reaction within the confines of your entrails, your stomach feels like a WhirlPool with all the clothes on one side, and you know that, if you stop for fuel you are not gonna make it; so, with the top button un-done and belt loose, you run her up in the yard, next to the back-door, and jump out running before the truck comes to a complete stop.
Several minutes and half-a-roll of Quilted Northern later, you remember that the tank must surely be drawing from the dregs in the bottom.
You poured the last of your emergency fuel stash in the neighbors tractor last week when he plowed your wife's garden and you forgot to re-fill the cans; in fact, the cans are in the back of the truck and you were meaning to fill them when you were at the fuel-station.
Never fear, just funnel a couple gallons of used oil in the tank and the Cummins will never know any different; just like a big old hungry dog, it will gobble it up without even knowing what it tasted like.
We also have three brand-new plastic gallon jugs that our new oil came in.
Cut the top from a plastic drink bottle, water, Ski, Ale-8, Big Red, whatever, such that this cut-off bottle-top resembles a disposable funnel.
Using this home-crafted funnel, carefully funnel the used oil into the empty jugs, making sure to not over-run any of them.
Once a jug is full, firmly seal on it's lid.
Once all three jugs have been filled, take some foot-long by two- or three-inch wide strips of paper.
On these strips of paper, write the date, write CLEAN USED OIL, write the brand/type of oil if known, and the truck/engine it was drained from.
Loop one of these paper strips through the handle of each jug and secure with a brand-new Stanley/Bostitch chisel-pointed staple.
Store these jugs of used oil somewhere safe, preferably in a storm-cellar or under the bed, providing you first sweep under the bed.
What do we want with this old oil you say; there are many things it will prove useful for.
An old snap-lid dish-detergent bottle, such as Palmolive or Lemon Fresh Joy comes in, when filled with used oil, makes a wonderful device for lubricating cattle-trailer door latches and hinges.
Many other lubricating tasks can be performed with equally as good results.
Lets say a storm blows over and root-wads that big hickory that has been leaning over the road for the last several years; you grab the 029 Stihl, fill it with gas-mix and grease the sprocket-nose; then, you realize that you are out of Bar-and-Chain.
No biggie, just pour her full of the used oil that we were smart enough to save; used oil is for certain better than no oil.
It can be used in any oil-less engine emergency, such as when you are mowing the back-yard and the oil-plug vibrates out of the 7-horse Tecumseh and you see where all the oil went when you make the next round; you just happen to not have any new oil and you are all hot sweaty and nasty and don't really have time to run to town; no problem, just pour her full of good old used oil and finish mowing; the Tecumseh will never know the difference.
Remember the muddy water we were gonna have to flush out of the engine; we are gonna use a bunch of this used oil to do so.
One more use for the used oil = you meant to get fuel before coming home, but those three three-bean burritos and that banana-split and cherry 7-UP you had before you got to the fuel-station have began a violent chemical reaction within the confines of your entrails, your stomach feels like a WhirlPool with all the clothes on one side, and you know that, if you stop for fuel you are not gonna make it; so, with the top button un-done and belt loose, you run her up in the yard, next to the back-door, and jump out running before the truck comes to a complete stop.
Several minutes and half-a-roll of Quilted Northern later, you remember that the tank must surely be drawing from the dregs in the bottom.
You poured the last of your emergency fuel stash in the neighbors tractor last week when he plowed your wife's garden and you forgot to re-fill the cans; in fact, the cans are in the back of the truck and you were meaning to fill them when you were at the fuel-station.
Never fear, just funnel a couple gallons of used oil in the tank and the Cummins will never know any different; just like a big old hungry dog, it will gobble it up without even knowing what it tasted like.
06-08-2011, 04:31 AM
#15
Registered User
It would be best if they had of welded the hole for the "bleed-screw" shut; it serves no useful practical purpose, save for maybe flying off in the weeds, never to be seen again, and leaving one stranded until a replacement can be obtained or a Poplar plug can be whittled to fit.
I have changed many many fuel-filters and I have NEVER YET EVER loosened the bleed-screw on any of the many engines I have serviced.
Likewise for the primer-pump on the lift-pump; it need not be touched during a standard fuel-filter change.
To change a fuel-filter on these AND ANY DIESEL ENGINE, remove the old filter; you may or may not have to first dis-connect some water sensor wires, depending on which filter you run.
Check that the old filter O-ring stayed with the filter and is not still stuck to the mounting-base.
Prep the new filter, if necessary, by installing any water drain valves or such, if they are used.
Pouring ONLY through the ring of little holes, NOT the center, fill the filter FULL with preferably Marvel Mystery Oil, Power-Service, HOWES, or plain old diesel-fuel.
Prior to filling the filter, set a CLEAN jar of Vaseline close at hand with the lid off.
Once the filter is completely FULL, smear a coating of Vaseline all over the O-ring (and any other O-rings that may be on the filter assembly --- of course, you would Vaseline these O-rings during their assembly before adding the fuel).
Being careful to NOT spill any fuel, and for certain to NOT get any debris or trash in or on the new filter (much easier said than done), carefully thread it onto the stud.
Once the threads are started, spin it the rest of the way until snug, hand tighten, then I like to always give them a little extra twist with the wrench --- just to be sure.
Now,
DO NOT TOUCH that bleeder-screw and LEAVE THE PRIMER-PUMP ALONE.Crank the engine and fire her up.
Hold it about half wide-open and any roughness will clear.
Diesel injection systems ARE NOT at all like hydraulic brake systems; for whatever reason, everyone always feels the need to be bleeding the injectors.
Once that engine fires, it will self-purge any air that may be in the system ALL BY ITSELF, without you needing to touch anything with any kind of tool.
Once the engine starts and is running, carefully inspect for drips around the new filter.
Very often, after servicing the fuel-filter, a persistent drip drip drip will start dripping off the filter's bottom.
This leak is hardly ever any portion of the new filter's installation.
99% of cases, it is the fuel-heater's O-ring seal has sprung a leak from the filter turning the heater mounting stud just enough to buggar up the heater O-ring seal.
The only fix for this is a brand-new heater O-ring --- OR --- better yet, there is a fuel-heater delete stud available from Cummins that permits the complete removal of the fuel-heater, such that it can never leak ever again.
To get rid of the troublesome factory water-drain valve type of filter, use instead the much bigger/deeper FleetGuard FS1221 or it's equivalent.
These are solid-bottom filters that come with an integral metal drain-valve that does not separate from the filter.
ALWAYS --- ALWAYS --- ALWAYS keep at least two, if not more, spare fuel-filters, the proper wrench, and a jug of fuel or something to fill the filters IN THE TRUCK AT ALL TIMES.