NJTman

After speaking with BobVA about my slight issue with death wobble @ low speeds (LSDW), he suggested to do some basic maintenance of my front axle. I didn't think I needed any maintenance, but I guess I was wrong. Bob found a place that sells replacement repair kits for our upper king pins, without having to rebuild the entire front end. I don't have the time for a complete rebuild, and I hope this fixes my problem with the LSDW that started after I lifted the front end 3" with my new springs. Next step is tires... so we'll just have to see how it goes.

First I ordered the parts needed from these guys.

http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/D60...ng-bushing.htm

Ordering was simple, and I got the parts in just a few days. Amazed at how fast I got them, but they're here. I actually bought 2 sets, so I could have another "maintenance" kit whenever I wanted it... or needed it. IMO, these kits should be changed ever 100k ... so when I hit the 265K on the truck, I'll be re-doing them all over again...

Mark (Maybe368) has a great thread to help with the process if you don't know what you're doing. He made it really well understood how to do the repairs.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...4-t290373.html

So, I did the easy side first.... the passenger side. Remove the 4 bolts using a 3/4 inch socket and ratchet, and you have a gooey spring, plastic cone, and a flat spring washer that sits between the two. This is the kit from ORD. They too make it easy to do the job.



You'll need a tube of silicone to re-seal the cap. You could buy a new gasket, but it's really not necessary if you get it to come off in one piece. I guess you don't even need a gasket, as you could just use the Form-a-gasket by itself. I just thin coated the seals, and it seems to worked out fine. You're just keeping water out, as there isn't any real pressure from the inside.



I used Amsoil synthetic grease, but I'm sure any grease will do. Just make sure you lube the crap out of it, as it's the only thing keeping the cup from wearing out prematurely. I lubed it both inside and outside, and slid it in place. There is a tab on the outer side of the cup which faces outwards, and fits in a slot in the knuckle. That prevents the cup from moving around after you're bolted back together.



Take the spring and washer, and put lots of grease between them, and place the spring back in the upper cup as the OE one came out. The spring is separated by the washer from the plastic cup, and I made sure to grease in between to prevent wear.

Next is to stick in your bolts and tighten them in a opposite pattern to 70 ft lbs.... I put a drop of thread locker blue on the threads to prevent backing out, but itt's probably overkill.



The passenger side was a piece of cake. Maybe 15 minutes tops, including cleaning out the old grease, installing the new bushings and springs, torquing the bolts down, and pumping it up full of grease. The drivers side was a completely different animal.

On the drivers side, you need to double nut the studs holding the arm that links the draglink to the gear pitman arm. This wasn't an issue with 3 of the studs. The 4th one, was a real PITA. After about 45 minutes of struggling to get the stud out, I had to heat up the knuckle to get it to loosen it's grip on the stud. The arm doesn't come off of the knuckle without removing the studs. The procedure for the install of the new parts was identical to the other side, otherwise.


What did I find ?

With 165,000 miles on my truck the plastic bushings were both cracked and physically worn out inside the cups. Both plastic cones were broken, but not completely demolished, yet there were pieces of plastic floating around in the grease. Both springs were physically about 1/8" shorter than the new springs, as 20 years has done their work on them. With new cups, and new springs, I think I've added quite a few years to the truck's reliability. Hopefully this takes care of my LSDW

BILTIT

If you still get some death wobble with bigger tires, put a large fender washer under the spring for more preload. Common fix that may be needed with big tires. Usually more so for 35+ and mud terrains though.

Grease every 5000kms or less!

PapeCAT

I had death wobble from my rotors being warped... Only at slow speeds coming to a stop. I turned rotors, put in new pads, and installed that new kit and it went away.

NJTman

Unfortunately, that doesn't apply to me. Currently, I have my 235/85/R16 skinny mini's on there. I was thinking maybe the tires were bad considering they're about 6 years old. Looking to replace them with the same "summer tire" but hopefully a little taller to fill the 3" gap in the wells. Haven't decided which way to go.

That's what I'm experiencing. Slow speeds coming to a stop. Doesn't always happen. Most of the times it's on a rough road.... but not always. Weird intermittent issue.. I may just turn the rotors next if this doesn't solve the issue.

Thanks !

NJTman

Went out for a ride this morning.... the first time since I replaced the plastic cone bushings and springs... All I can say is....


NO MORE DEATH WOBBLE

The front suspension no longer vibrates or has that horrible clunk going over bumps any longer. Every time I'd hit a deviation in the road, a terrible "BANG" would be felt / heard under the front suspension of the truck. It's gone. The steering is tighter than it's ever been and handles incredibly. What a HUGE Difference.

WOW ! I'm so happy I did this fix Also glad I have an extra set for the future, as I can see doing this again in about 100K or so, if I hear that clunking again, or get the wobble back.

AGAIN...... Thanks BobVA for the tip.

Thanks Off Road Design for having these parts available for me as well.

bobva

Well Im glade that worked out for you.
Keep up on the lubes,, change oil lube it.

As far as replacing them a 100k these kits are CHEAP the cummins is HEAVY its not a little 580LB SBC 350.

New tires new bushings that's for stock size tires.

19.5 commercial tire can and do last over 100k change at 50k.

Bigger tires well your on your own,,,,, my guess is at 50% tread life.

cougar

There is a company that makes an off set bushing so you can correct for slight camber and caster problems. I have them on my 91. It had a bad camber problem on the right side and some on the left. The bushings did the trick. Moog also makes an adjustable lower king pin.

kiszka6911

There are also angled shims that go between the Spindle and the knuckle, the have various angles I bought I few just to have. They have multiple set of holes so they can be used on either side, angle up or down.

jtamulonis

by the time you wear out the 2nd set of plastic bushings, the tapered steel pins they rest on WILL BE WORN OUT. new plastic cups WILL NOT stop death wobble then. ask me how I know this !! you would not think plastic will wear out a steel pin, but it WILL ! when you take it out with a 7/8" allen wrench and a LONG cheater , you will see the 1/4" bottom lip WILL be thinner on one side than the other, and the taper will be thinner at the top too. you do not have to take the knuckle off to change the tapered pin. they sell a 3/4" female X 7/8" male hex to take the pin out. most places that sell the rebuild kits sell the socket/tool. it works better than a regular allen wrench. you will have to torque the tapered pin to 600 ft. lb. so borrow or rent a 3/4" torque wrench and have at it.