oliver92

ok finally tore into the ctd to kill pin..it hadent moved a bit..made a stop out of sheet steel to go under existing bolt...discovered a groove in the crank so had to order a redi sleeve..will take till tue ...i have read that the seal is not supposd to be lubed ..i have never had a seal i havent lubed before install..i did buy the felpro kit ..can anyone tell me why the fsm says not to lube..is this just for a cummins seal?..also there was a thread on all the bolts to loctite...i think there are 7 but cant find them all... it had pics does anyone know where to find?...also in the kit i bought it has the gasket for the cover..another gasket thats not closed just half gasket if you will and a package with one round oring and two flat orings..one large rubber ring whuch i guess is for the fill tube and then a small gasket that looks like an egr gasket for a gas engine..can anyone shed light on this stuff...thanks for all the help

SOOT4BRAINS

I just did a front cover on a friends truck and it was the felpro kit as well. The seal should be installed dry. The seal material is different from all the gas stuff I've done that you want to have a little oil on. The "half" a gasket is the gasket for the back side if the gear case. Our kit didnt have any orings, but there is an oring on the TDC locating pin and there is another oring in the TDC locating pin housing thingy. Maybe those are it. As for the egr thing, I have no idea.

Riflemanusmc

Yes Sir... DRY...Sounds wrong I know...But you'll be ok...

wannadiesel

My comments in red.

oliver92

thanks for the replies guys i had thought about changing the position of the seal in the case but elected to wait for the sleeve..only want to do this once and buy one seal...also wanna you said seat it deeper..but if it is installed from the back like the sticky says it would seem that it needs to be more shallow?...thats the place on my crank..closer to the block that is not grooved..am i correct in my thinking?..also this is supposed to have 175,000 mi on it and i thought i had read that they didnt groove that early..any input on this..again thanks for the advice and hope to have it up and going mon or tues when sleeve comes in..in the meantime plent more to do..make a brace for the steering box.. gusset up the crossmember on front.. sliding rear window ..geesh does it ever stop..lol have a good one

wannadiesel

You would want it closer to the block.

The sleeve uses a different seal to deal with the added diameter.

They groove because people let them leak. The leak attracts grit, and that grooves the shaft if you run it that way for too long.

ebteckx

300,000 miles on my rig did the crank seal 2 weeks ago now and not drop one with the normal seal. Wanna when I did the case bolts, I rotated the engine with a barring tool and found 2 case bolt behind it, plus the one that you cant really get to unless you pull the cam gear off... one at like a 1200 position and another at like 200 position. Then the third that you can only check for tightness at like a 400 position. Does that sound right?

wannadiesel

Yeah, I think you're right about there being three hiding in there. It's been a couple months since I had the cover off one.

dzl_damon

I remember another bolt too, but I believe it was a 13mm, not a 10mm. I looked closer and it was not a casing bolt, it had something to do with the cam so I left it alone. Were all 3 10mm bolts?

ebteckx

yep they were identical bolts...

oliver92

so i will have to buy a diff seal if i install the redi sleeve?..how thick are they a redi sleeve for the balancer on a chevy uses the original seal...this could get challenging

wannadiesel

Cummins sells the sleeve and seal together as a set.

Riflemanusmc

Dave is correct. When you buy a front OR rear seal from the OEM dealer your going to get the speedy sleeve with it.