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Front Brake Line Replacement

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Old 07-13-2013, 07:14 PM
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Front Brake Line Replacement

So I start the truck to head up to the store and let it warm up a bit while I grab my stuff from inside. Walk out and press the brake pedal to put it in drive and it goes all the way to the floor. Hop out and I see a giant puddle of brake fluid under the front axle.

Get under the truck and low and behold the passenger hardline, where it attaches to the distribution block, has rusted and left a pinhole. Now the line to the block is rubber, and the hardlines connect to rubber at the axles. Anyone replace those hardlines with rubber brake lines or braided SS?

If I can avoid buying a section of hardline and whipping out my fittings and flaring tool I'd prefer to do that. Anyone else had their hardlines rust out? I'm really glad I waited to let her warm up. Had I hopped in and rode off I would have driven out into a major thoroughfare right near my house with the lack of brakes. Any help appreciated. Thanks!
Old 07-13-2013, 08:25 PM
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You could measure the length of the line with some rope, and then buy a new line and rebend a replacement. If you do make sure you try and get a brake line with the coiled spring on it...then you can bend them by hand.

I always get under and spray my old lines with Fluid Film spray. Helps keep the corrosion down.
Old 07-13-2013, 08:27 PM
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I noticed they had coiled spring on them and took note cause I thought that was odd. Forgive my ignorance, but what's the significance for having the coil round it?
Old 07-13-2013, 09:23 PM
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so it takes more to get smashed then just a small hit from something .
Old 07-13-2013, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by highwaystar22
I noticed they had coiled spring on them and took note cause I thought that was odd. Forgive my ignorance, but what's the significance for having the coil round it?
Abrasion, resistance to damage by road debris (rock or gravel guards), during the bending process, it helps with preventing kinking. They're still available through classic tube

Mostly for protection against flying debris, but absolutely not a problem it it isn't there. I've run standard brake lines for decades and no failures. The only failure I've ever come across was RUST.
Old 07-13-2013, 10:01 PM
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Awesome. I'll check out classic tube. Anyone know the fitting size off the top of their heads?
Old 07-14-2013, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by highwaystar22
Awesome. I'll check out classic tube. Anyone know the fitting size off the top of their heads?
Don't know the fitting size, but if you happen to have a regular cab, Classic has a whole kit of pre-bent stainless lines, 329 bucks. Expensive, but you would never, ever need to buy a set again.

If you check with them, they might just sell you the front ones as well.
Old 07-14-2013, 01:06 PM
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I saw that. I have an ext cab. $329 ain't bad for a full set of brand new ones. I'm seriously considering just replacing them all. I think the piece of mind is worth it. Just annoyed at 170k I've got rusted lines.
Old 07-14-2013, 06:50 PM
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170k has nothing to do with rust, it all depends how well the truck was cleaned. My gf's rusted out on her 94 silverado at 150k
Old 07-14-2013, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by peckens
170k has nothing to do with rust, it all depends how well the truck was cleaned. My gf's rusted out on her 94 silverado at 150k
I agree...my donor 93 has a great body and interior...but the underside is so rusty that it looks like it sat in swamp for a few years.
Old 07-14-2013, 10:18 PM
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To answer your question, I have never seen anyone replace steel brake lines with hoses. I also have flaring experience and the equipment to do it, but if I could do it without flaring a line, I probably would. Anyway, my point is that most jobber stores sell brake lines, already flared on both ends, in predetermined lengths. You may be able to find one in a length that will work for you. Some will come with the spiral wire wrapped around them which will allow you to bend them by hand without kinking the line. If not, a bending tool and some practice will help a lot.

If you are interested in doing some preventive line replacement while you are in there, the line in the left frame rail that is hidden by the fuel tank is a common problem. Dirt and muck lays in the frame rail alongside the tank and holds moisture that tends to speed up corrosion of the line.
Old 07-16-2013, 07:04 PM
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I went ahead and got lines from Classic. For just the front hard lines with the gravel guard it was $56 shipped to me. Driver's side is right at 23" and the Pass side is right at 37" plus or minus 1/2" for safety's sake.

In case anyone is wondering it's a 3/16 size tube with 3/8-24 ends. I'll be installing this weekend assuming they get here in time and go through the "fun" bleeding process.
Old 07-16-2013, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by highwaystar22
I went ahead and got lines from Classic. For just the front hard lines with the gravel guard it was $56 shipped to me. Driver's side is right at 23" and the Pass side is right at 37" plus or minus 1/2" for safety's sake.

In case anyone is wondering it's a 3/16 size tube with 3/8-24 ends. I'll be installing this weekend assuming they get here in time and go through the "fun" bleeding process.
Do those lines from Classic come pre-bent to fit your vehicle, or are they just straight?
Old 07-16-2013, 10:24 PM
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They're straight. The pre-bent ones come in the kit. I used some string to measure the contour of the line making sure to give myself just a little extra so I don't come up short..... no fella wants that to happen.
Old 07-17-2013, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by highwaystar22
They're straight. The pre-bent ones come in the kit. I used some string to measure the contour of the line making sure to give myself just a little extra so I don't come up short..... no fella wants that to happen.
Gotcha, thanks!


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