Bushy

Hey guys,<br><br>I have a couple of extra questions on the installation of the gov spring.<br>First, it has been mentioned to me that when the top is removed from the pump, care needs to taken not to stretch the &quot;idle spring&quot;. Did any of you guys encounter this issue? What did you do about it?<br><br>When lifting the top off, did you unhook the gov spring by accessing it from the fender side of the pump or the engine side of the pump and which end did you unhook first???<br><br>How far up can you/should you lift the top before attempting to unhook the spring??<br><br>I noticed one post mentioned lifting something or other up as the top is removed but that particular part stays inside the pump.... can you clarify that part a bit???<br><br>What if any problems did you encounter on re-installing the pump top???<br><br>Thanks guys... and yes, I picked up my spring. As soon as we get PDR moved, and I get some time I'm going to attempt the spring change.<br><br>Thanks again...<br><br>bob.

jughead

i removed the throttle lever and lifted the top off. if you do this the shaft stays in the pump. you must mark the shaft and lever carefully to get them back in place. may not have been the rite way to do it but it worked for me.

Old Smoky

Bob,
I did not take the throttle lever off. I dont know wich way is better. I did not have a problem with stretching the idle spring. When you lift the top of the pump off, you will have limited clearance to get your fingers between the two pieces. The gov. spring holds the two pieces together. It is kind of tricky to get the spring off for the first time. I removed the gov. spring from the bottom half of the pump, on the fender side. The spring is connected to a small shaft (looks somewhat like a thumbtack) and has a spring on it with a cup on the end. When you disconnect the gov. spring from the shaft the spring cup can slip back, and the spring (not gov, spring) and &quot;thumbtack&quot; can fall on the ground, or into the pump. Be extra careful that this doesn’t happen. I about wet my pants when the parts fell (I found them after about 25min of searching). When the gov. spring is disconnected the top of the pump will come right off.

I found it easier to completely back out the full load fuel screw. This is not mandatory, but make disassembly and reassembly easier.

I'm not sure about &quot;...lifting something or other up as the top is removed but that particular part stays inside the pump....&quot; Everything is well attached inside. Just be sure to lift the top half straight up so that there is no chance of bending the &quot;guide pin lever.&quot;

Again, when going back together it is difficult to hold the &quot;thumbtack&quot; in place and connect the spring to the end. I didn't find an easy way to do it. I hope this is what you were looking for.

Let us know how you like the new gov. spring. I may have to get one myself.

Mike

Jim Shulmister

I put my gov spring in today. I did have to remove the throttle linkage because it covers the 4th alen bolt, but it was no big deal. I saw the thumbtack they were talking about, but if you take the other end loose from the throttle linkage side first its no problem. Also with all the throttle goodies out of the way you can push the throttle shaft down a bit (or all the way) to give you more room to unhook the spring.<br> Things in order that i removed- afc banjo and hose, fuel return banjo,Idle screw,full load screw, afc cover and pin, throttle arms,allen screws (4), gov spring.<br> This is not a tough operation, but the little hard to reach idle screw and other hard to reach items made it painfull.<br> I also took the time to update to my hx35w 12cm turbo. The truck is now very nimble and driveable around town, very pleased with it. The turbo is a direct fit, even the oil draintube was no problem (although different shape) the newer gaskets are made to fit the round or square oil drain tubes. All i had to do was order the gaskets and loosen the first exhaust clamp by the trans to allow the downpipe to move back a bit. Then everything fits fine.<br> -Jim-

Bushy

Good stuff guys, I printed this off. First decent day I get I'll see if I can get my spring in too....<br>Thanks again... ;D<br><br>Bob

Monty

Still waiting on mine. Seems they are on backorder Sounds like people are buying them up right and left.<br><br>

Bushy

Ok, how long do I have to break in the governor spring before I can wail on it.....?? ;D<br><br>I found that my idle was about 200 RPM higher after the install. OH, and another point to keep in mind is that the TPS is connected to that allen screw, so when you undo it, you loose the existing TPS position.<br>Take a reading on the center (orange) wire for the at rest voltage, then do the spring. After it's back together you can tweak the TPS as needed...... I forgot.. bummed me out.<br>I had all sorts of encouragement/razzing/sticking out of tongues from wildman mark, while young mark and I did the spring job.<br> Now all I gotta do is control my self while the PDRHX35/14 gets broken in.... <br><br>Bob

Old Smoky

So what do you think of the new spring? ;D<br><br>A new turbo too? ;D ;D<br><br>Mike<br>

Bushy

Hi Mike,<br><br>First, a BIG THANK YOU TO PIERS AND YOUNG MARK@PDR !!!!!!<br><br>Yup, I am getting to &quot;try out&quot; a PDR HX35 w/14cm NW housing.<br>Its brand new so I am following the breakin instructions to the letter.<br>When the gov spring was put in I found that I had overlooked the step of taking a TPS reading before removing the allen screw on the throttle shaft. It now needs some tweaking to put it back in tune.<br>Also, I found that my low idle had gone from 850 RPM in &quot;N/D&quot;, to almost 1100 RPM.<br>I am assuming that is because the new gov spring is pulling on the tensioning lever, which is directly affected when you turn in the full fuel screw. I'm guessing that the tighter spring kind of duplicated the effects of turning the full fuel screw in.<br>That resulted in the idle increase. I had to reset my idle.<br>Next, the low idle, high idle, full fuel screw all had to be removed to get my pump top off.<br>Once the turbo has some miles on it, I'll get in there and do some fine tuning on those listed above.<br>I'll try to post some direct comparisions of before/after, maybe later next week.<br>For now, I was asked to keep my boost levels at 20'ish for about 150-200 km. Then it's ok to run it up.<br>If you've never done this mod it takes a bit of time and care to do it so you don't drop any components, or loose your index setting. Oh, I also had to &quot;de-time&quot; the pump to get at the back allen screw holding the pump on too.<br><br>Well, that's it for now. I'll report back in a few days. with any info I discover.<br><br>Bob.

jughead

[quote author=Bushy link=board=9;threadid=13165;start=0#126346 date=1049952010]<br>Ok, how long do I have to break in the governor spring before I can wail on it.....?? ;D<br><br>I found that my idle was about 200 RPM higher after the install. OH, and another point to keep in mind is that the TPS is connected to that allen screw, so when you undo it, you loose the existing TPS position.<br>Take a reading on the center (orange) wire for the at rest voltage, then do the spring. After it's back together you can tweak the TPS as needed...... I forgot.. bummed me out.<br>I had all sorts of encouragement/razzing/sticking out of tongues from wildman mark, while young mark and I did the spring job.<br> Now all I gotta do is control my self while the PDRHX35/14 gets broken in.... <br><br>Bob<br>[/quote]these trucks must be like women same thing only different. my idle did not change. didnt break in the spring. checked for leaks and stuck my foot in it. i hope it works for you guys like it did for me. ps sorry about the tps omission my 518 set up doesnt have one.

Bushy

No worries jughead, it wasn't till we were pulling the throttle shaft up that I realized it drove the TPS... oh well..<br>I really had my tongue firmly planted in my cheek regarding the spring breakin.... But I do have to break in this new turbo properly or my butt is grass and the other guy is a lawnmower on acid..... ;D <br><br>Bob

Monty

Good to hear Bob, im still impatiently waiting on mine to arrive.

Bushy

Well, how about this....

Before the gov spring my high idle test would run up to about 3400 RPM, with defuel starting at around 2950-3000 RPM.

Well with the gov spring in I did a high idle test yesterday....
OMG !!! when I nailed the throttle, the tach literally SHOT past that and peaked at about 3800 RPM before I could respond and lift off...... Holy Smoke !!
Needless to say the high idle screw got turned back in a few turns after that....
That spring holds full fueling well past 3500 if you let it..
Now, were's that ugly F**D ......

Bob.

jughead

oh ye of little faith.

ZUNK

[quote author=Bushy link=board=9;threadid=13165;start=0#127254 date=1050120127]<br><br>That spring holds full fueling well past 3500 if you let it..<br>Now, were's that ugly F**D ...... <br><br>Bob.<br><br>[/quote]<br>Who are you calling ugly . Mama always said I wasn't ugly! I wonder who she was lying to, me or herself ??? .<br><br>Sounds like that gov spring would fit me just fine. With 4.10s I'll hit the 2400-2600 rpm mark pulling hills. Not that I want to pull them faster just get full fuel at that rpm. <br> Bob thanks for all the r&amp;d on this.