thumbs

Ok I can handle the 40 bucks but 210 ouch!!!!!!!

Is there anything wrong with a cable to the manual shutdown and just pull it when the shutdown solenoid fails or is the sanding down of the front of the plunger really the way to go? I won't be able to do the plunger thing for a while. I can't afford to have the truck down right now.

Is there a part number for the vw shutdown solenoid?

BC847

Gary, I'm not sure of the latest VW part number. Perhaps another will chime in soon with one.

The pull cable works just fine. MANY go that route once they've torn a couple of plungers.

The only reason I'm pursuing a permanent fix is because I want to be able to run the turbo cool-down timer and have the engine shut down automatically after I've walked away.

David

thumbs

If the VW shutdown solenoid works that sounds like the way to go. I may try to fix it first though as long as I can get the VW replacement. When you are talking about the cool down timer I just watch the pyro. It really doesn't take that long to go below 300* even after pullin a 12K fifth wheel. I guess the cool down would be nice though as long as I can get the shutdown solenoid to work. How much are the shutdown timers?

What caused these plungers to go south? Is it just normal wear and tear or is there another problem?

BC847

When we start increasing the fuel, apparently the velocity through the solenoid's plunger's port gets high enough that it rips a plug out of the plungers rubber tip rendering the affair useless.

The cool-down timer can be had for the cost of one of the simple twist style 110vac wall timers (for the bathroom heat-lamp for example). Cheap and effective.
From there the cost goes up with the complexity. I run the timer offered by BD. It's able to base the engine shut off on the actual EGT. Set the timer for the temperature you want it to shut down, and from that point on, it's fully automatic. If it takes longer than five minutes, it'll shut you mess on down. Should a punk try to steal your mess, the first time he hits the brakes, it'll shut the engine down.

I would at least try the fix once as you can't mess up a no-good plunger anyway.

It'll either work, or it won't.

thumbs

Yep I have the pump turned up for sure. I guess that's what happened to the plunger. I needed the power though.

As you can see I have a 92. I thought there was a timer out there that you just set the time and walked away. Wanadiesel has one or at least had one. I don't think the BD would work on mine. I have an autometer pre turbo pyro. Not sure if it would hook up to it.

BC847

Most of the temperature based timers simply tap into the pyrometer sensor's two wires. It doesn't care if you're pre or post turbo. You set the temp.

Otherwise connecting to the fuel solenoid involves a simple diode so as not to back-feed 12v to the PCM. Makes it act really stupiididiid.

wannadiesel

Go to the local VW dealer and lie like a congressman. Tell them you have an '85 Jetta with a diesel.

leper

I just called and ordered on from the local vw dealer. Should have it on Friday. I will post a part number when I verify that it is the correct one.

mhuppertz

Hmmm, I wonder if I damaged my PCM because I didn't even think about putting a diode in line.....

thumbs

Funny, I am workin on some other stuff on the truck right now so I have to wait to repair the shutdown solenoid. I will say this though, it's goin down hill fast. I first had a problem shuttin the thing off. This afternoon she wouldn't start till I tapped the shutdown solenoid. I never had any problem starting since I got the truck new. She even started in -20* one time. She didn't like it but she started.

Hey Wanadiesel, I have the shutdown solenoid with two electrical connectors on it. Does the VW have two or do I have to modify the thing?

Funny how much you learn in a short period of time.

BC847

Those two connectors are electrically the same. You'll need to remove them first to get the solenoid out of the pump as they are in the way of turning the solenoid to unscrew it.

They are both attached to the top of the solenoid by a common nut. They are swapped to the new solenoid.

thumbs

BC847

Ok but..... When Wanadiesel put in a new gov spring for me I loosened one of the connectors on the solenoid . The one I loosened is the one that is 90* from the block. When this fell off it shut the engine down. I had to put a bit of silicone on it to keep it on. When I was tryin to shut the engine down the other day I pulled the other lead off but it did nothing. She kept on runnin. Just tryin to learn something here. Why are there two connectors on the '92? Why does the engine shutdown when I pull one lead off but stays running with the other lead. I figure one lead shuts the fuel off and the other pulls the plunger to the open position. Watcha think??? If that is the case you do need two connectors on the solenoid. However there are the solenoids that have one on connector on other years?

BC847

Gary,

One of the two wires is the power from the PCM that energizes the solenoid to allow the engine to run. That was the one you removed that killed the engine.

The other wire (same color ~ blue) that didn't kill the engine conducts the same power that runs the solenoid coil, to the one of the charge-air temp sensors up on the intake valley cover. It ultimately powers the KSB.



PCM (+12vdc to run engine) - > - - -- > Fuel Solenoid - > - - - - > C/A Temperature Sensor - > - - --> KSB


Again, the two tabs on the solenoid are electrically the same. You can twist the two wires together and connect them to the solenoid and all's the same.

Hope this helps.

wannadiesel

And that's what I suggest you do. Twist them together and crimp a ring terminal on them. It'll never accidentally kill the truck again.

iker42

Added to the wiki

http://wiki.dieseltruckresource.com/...f_Solenoid_Fix