I've never seen a crossover steering that way before. How does it handle to bolting the box up in the 2wd position and running the drag link under the crossmember?

 

Well the drag link isn't actually under the cross memeber, it may look like it.. but it isn't even close.. some one sells a kit that does...but it is pretty hoky.. Like I said before, my truck with 13" of lift and 44" boggers handles awesome.. So hopefully, I can get it set up pretty soon on the 92 cummins, I already have a new rebuilt reverse roation gear box.. So I already have a jump.. I would just leave it stock but my stock gearbox and everything is shot, so I figure it will be better to just try the cross over set up.

Thanks for all the compliments guys!!! Got the D70 disc brake brackets today, so I got some work to do now..

 

My bad. I misphrased myself. I meant, how does it handle compared to a crossover steering setup with the steering box in the 2wd position and the draglink under the engine crossmember? I'm had mine setup like that since 2004 and haven't had any problems. Just wondering if it was a better style like you have yours.

 

So your sayin you dont get steering feedback while your driving? How stiff are your front springs?

 

are those factory springs? how much lift do you get from flipping your shackles?

 

Very Nice! What did you do for spacing for your 3rd gen wheels? Do the alloys have less backspacing than the Chrome Clads? I think the 2nd gens were different but I don't know about 3rd.

 

Well, the cross over set up that runs under the cross member is probably fine, but when I did it on my power wagon, the guys at off road unlimited said you have to notch the cross member. So I wasn't down with that.

RAMNAN4 if you get time post a few pics of your cross over setup.. Id like to see how you have yours if you get time.

Front springs were custom made on my wheelin truck, they are pretty stiff.

The 3rd gen wheels are just on there for rolling around purposes. They rub on the tie rod ends and the calipers. There is a long story there. I let the guy borrow them who used to own the truck and he got the truck repoed with my rims and tires, so I bought the truck for 1500 bucks from the auction so I wouldn't lose my rims.. Kinda got screwed on the deal but at least I got something to work on Now!!

 

I'll get you some pics tomorrow. Notching the engine crossmember only applies to 72-75ish trucks with the narrow engine crossmember. After that they went to the wide engine crossmember like you and I both have. It is possible to run the drag link under the crossmember without hitting it or cutting the crossmember. I'll get you some pics so you can see what I'm talking about though.

 

Concrete inside and out; nice roomy roof over your head; it sure must be nice.


You are no doubt better versed in what you are doing than I am; but, I had a bad experience with one of those steering-arm riser-blocks, if that is what I am seeing under there.

I put one as a quick fix on my old 1978 Chevy; it corrected all of my steering problems, UNTIL, the bolts started breaking one at a time.


I, then, bought/installed a special hi-rise arm that accomplished the same thing, but bolted directly to the knuckle, like the original; 400,000-plus miles later and it is still there.




I have a 1972 Ford Hi-Boy that has power-steering PLUS hydro-assist on the long rod; have you any experience with that ??


Nice work.

 

I gotcha some pics. These are from 4 years ago when I first installed this. This is on my 84 ramcharger. The steering box has been moved to the 2wd position. You have to pull the adapter plate off the box and bolt it directly to the frame then. Once you do that it moves the box into position so you can put the drag link under the crossmember. Currently I have heim joints on it, but will be going to tie rod ends sometime in the future.

 

That looks pretty good, my gear box is also in the 2wd position with the plate removed.. Well..Once I get up front I will definately investigate my options. It pretty much all depends how it sits with the 2.5 springs. Because I already bought my u-bolts 4 the rear and only got them about 1.75 to long. So that is as big as block that I can put back there without buying new u-bolts again. So...I am plus 2 in the rear over stock right now so, So I can go about 1.75 more then the 2.5 springs in the front with 1.5 drop shackles should put me just about level I hope. But I already have a new rebuilt reverse rotation gearbox, so I am ahead of the game if I go that way.. But thanks for the pics

 

Not a problem. I have 4 inch springs in the front of my ramcharger, custom drop brackets and a shackle flip in the rear along with a 1 inch 0 rate block with a 3 inch body lift too. The truck rides on 36X12.50X16.5R Wrangler RTIIs for now.

 

Looking like some good progress