TexasHardcore

Is there a better-than-stock alternator for our trucks?

I've noticed mine isn't doing it's job lately. My Pyro spikes when the bass hits ( and I don't have big stereo), it spikes or stays at 0 when the A/C is on, it flickers with the blinkers, etc.

My voltmeter usually reads right around the 2nd mark to the left. When the headlights are on, and the A/C is on, and the Stereo is up...the EGT flips out, the lights dim when I roll up/down my power windows etc.

I have factory option running lights, and no aftermarket parts that would suck up voltage...but I'd like all my stuff to work like it should, and I'd eventually like to run some fog/driving lights.

Theres a local guy who rebuilds starter & alternators for a good price and he's recommended by everyone, so if theres no "upgrade" alternator...then I'll just get mine gone through.


Also...My oil pressure gauge is great, fuel level is crapped out, but my coolant temp gauge might be freaking out, I'm not sure. It usually reads at a decently cool temp. With the A/C on I've noticed it get a bit warmer. It's NEVER gotten hot since I've owned it, but I'm just wondering if this activity is normal

Today was weird. Around 10:30am and about 90 degrees outside I made a 75 mile drive down the highway with the A/C on, and averaging about 75mph...the gauge read a bit on the warm side.... After a 4 minute cool-down, it was shut down for about half an hour.

Now, on my way back home, on the same highway, in the same outside temperature, at the same speed with my A/C on...it ran WAY cool. Down near the first mark on the gauge, and didn't move during the entire trip.

It does this pretty often, but I've never noticed such a difference in coolant temperature during the same driving conditions & weather conditions.

I'm lost...anyone have any comments/suggestions???

What coolant should I use, what mixture, what additives, if any, etc...and what's the capacity of the system???

many thanks in advance...

ClawHammer

Sound like a loose ground...Look to see if there is a ground wire loose under the steering column...

TexasHardcore

I'll check that before the sun goes down...thanks.

Rammer64

To connect an amp meter to the battery, disconnect the positive terminal. Connect the amp meter leads between the positive post and the positive cable. With ALL the accessories off, start by turning the key in the "ON" position and note the amperage draw. One by one, turn on each accessory and record the amp readingsone at a time. Once ALL the accessories have been turned, read the TOTAL amperage draw on the charging system. This total amount CANNOT be more than the maximun output of the alternator. If you have 100amp alternator and drawing 109amps- result=dead battery and eventually fried alternator and battery.
You have to test the alternator output and ensure that it is putting out what it is rated for and make sure that the total amperage draw is LESS than that.

Most alternator/starter rebuild shops can upgrade but it's expensive. I used to work in a rebuild shop and it was actually cheaper to get the H/O POLICE PACKAGE alternators. I installed a 160amp H/O alternator on one of our traffic enforcement Dakota (ghost cars) as we call them. That's the UNMARKED vehicles used for high speed traffic fines. The police department just got an SRT/10 Ram for traffic enforcement. It's at the shop having the strobe lights, radio, and laptop put in it now.
They've had mustangs, intrepids, f150 lightning, LS/1 camaro,
ss caprice and were looking at the MARAUDER. YUUUUK

DesertRat93

My pyro used to do the same thing. I replaced the sad little factory battery to body ground wire with a 4 gauge ground wire. I've never had a problem since.

Rammer64

Desert Rat. I have to admit that's the first club cab shortbox I have seen. I didn't know they made those in 93'

wannadiesel

The alt. is a 120 amp unit, I doubt you need anything bigger. As Clawhammer said, you have grounding issues somewhere.

DesertRat93

Rammer64. DC never did make a shortbed 1st Gen. with a CTD. Mine's like the four door crew cabs a few lucky guys have on here, you have to make it yourself. Just wish I had the time to paint it.

There's a guy near me who's built a bada$$ CTD 1st Gen. Suburban machine(don't know what to call it). It's a four door cab with a Ramcharger back half mated to it. He did a awesome job building it. To the unenlightened, you would never know DC didn't ever build it.

I'll have to take some pics of it and post em' when I can.

TexasHardcore

I've upgraded the battery ground to core support wire, checked all over ground wires & connections....nothing has changed. I'm still having the gauge issues, as well as the plaguing headlight flickering that I posted about a few months back.

DesertRat93

The bulkhead wire harness connector gets corrosion in it sometimes. I would check there next for a possible poor connection.

Where is the positive power lead for the pyro hooked up? Maybe try a different power source location.

TexasHardcore

Pyro power is ran through the fuse for the gauges. I've tried different fuses for power, and they all get the same results. I'm planning on wiring all accessories to an aftermarket fuse block in the future.

Rammer64

It's funny about this. Today a guy came into work and he has one. A shortbox 93 club cab. It's a w150 with 318 auto and partially loaded w/options.

It wasn't a diesel, but it was a stock s/b club cab on a 93 chassis. He said it's for sale now for $4000 or $5000 CAN/FUNDS when he's done doing the body and paint.

DesertRat93

Rammer64.
DC did build the 1st gen shortbox club cab, in gassers only. You'll never see a factory stock one with a CTD.

By the way, your sig. says your truck has a Dana 44??? Are you sure?

Rammer64

noooo!