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Engine will not fire after Inj Pump rebuild??

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Old 09-01-2006, 11:24 PM
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Engine will not fire after Inj Pump rebuild??

Hey all,

I read this thread and a few others I found in search:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=106493

Here is what we did to my truck.

Inj pump started leaking so we put engine at top dead center ( i think) wich put woodroff key point at 6 o'clock(down) we then took inj pump off and gave to a local guy to rebuild..which he did and he also put in the 3200 spring

I then checked KDP(killed it - just incase)

then we put cover back on and put inj pump back on..
I also had to put 1 new inj line and 1 bolt we broke on.

All is together and we primed the entire system but when we try to fire it nothing just spin engine but no sign of life...


So from what I am reading there is no way for me to check the timing cause the pump is timed when rebuilt??

Or I need to check the throttle shaft cause it could be indexed wrong??

what else can I check tomorrow Am when I head to garage??

Thanks in advance
(truck has been down for 2 weeks and I really need to use it)
Old 09-02-2006, 05:31 AM
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If you put the pump in right (key in the slot) then it is timed close enough to fire. You don't mention bleeding the injection lines, have you done that?
Old 09-02-2006, 06:20 AM
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ok I am 99% sure we put tthe pump back in correct...

and yes we pumped the lift pump until fuel started coming out of the lines..so bleeding has been done..
Old 09-02-2006, 07:46 AM
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No it hasn't. Loosen any 3 lines and crank the engine until fuel sprays. Tighten those three, loosen the other three, and crank again. It may take 2 or 3 cycles of doing this to get all the air out and get 'er running.
Old 09-02-2006, 08:43 AM
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ok cool I am gonna go try that..

question: how much pressure should be coming out of the lines when you start engine?? should it be like a light spray or a hard spray like it is under 8000psi??

And this is with the lines just cracked open not off...
Old 09-02-2006, 09:10 AM
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Lust loosen the injector nut 1/4-1/2 from tight. There is tremendous pressure coming from those lines, so wear safety glasses and cover any exposed skin, and just don't get near the lines if you can help it. Once the first 3 are bled and tightened, it'll likely start and run on just three while the other 3 are bleeding. Once the other three are bled, shut the truck down before you tighten the last three...this may be overkill, but it's safer, IMO.
Old 09-02-2006, 12:30 PM
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What he said.
Old 09-02-2006, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by BRUISER
ok cool I am gonna go try that..

question: how much pressure should be coming out of the lines when you start engine?? should it be like a light spray or a hard spray like it is under 8000psi??

And this is with the lines just cracked open not off...


hey bruiser, been there done that, bleed the injector lines that is. i have run out of fuel once and drove up a couple of steep hills with the auxillery tank on 1/4 tank , bad idea, so i have had to bleed the injectors lines probably a total of 6 times, fortunatly i have two tanks so i switch to the full one, what i do is basically as wanna said it, cracked a couple lines or i crack all of them, and cranked it over until enough fuel sprayed out, then tightened them up and cranked until it started, sometimes it sounds a little rough until all the lines bleed them selves out, but it works. also g1625s said there was tremendous pressure coming from the lines, but all the times ive done this i never had anything more than some good squirts come out the injector lines, so im not sure what you'll get from your lines, but be careful.
Old 09-02-2006, 10:31 PM
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Well BAD NEWS..

Truck still will not fire....

Here is what we did.. please help if you can.

1st we re-bleed the entire system and we have fuel at every line that is to crack.. with good pressure..

2nd we took #1 valve cover off and rotated engine to make sure engine squirt fuel at same time as valves

3rd we rechecked throttle lever index and it is fine..

4th we re-bleed system again

5th we took off oil fill tube to check and make sure we did do everything at Top Dead Center and we are pretty **** cloe atleast by what we could feel and see with shroud/fan etc stil on

6th we hooked up umper battery since we were killing my regular battery

7th we continued to try to crank it even with throttle wide open and still no luck..
nothing not even a glimmer of hope

8th we check fuel cut off switch and it is workin correctly

SO I am SO lost I just have no idea what to do..

Here are the questions:
1: can a pump be built 180degeers off from when I gave the guy the pump
what I mean by this is when we got pump back the woodruff key is located in same place on pump when we gave it to guy to build it.. so is it possible to have the key in correct locationbut the insides be off ???

2: Please give me all ideas you can think of I really want to get this fixed and I am Just lost ????
Old 09-03-2006, 01:05 AM
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This may seem stupid, and if your system is bled the truck should crank with the starter. I had mine rebuilt and had very little trouble starting it, (after shearing a woodriff key and taking pump back off to fix). If the struck has a standard transmission try pulling it off if you run out of options, works on a farm tractor sometimes when all else fails. Maybe that will help, sorry if it doesn't. Good luck.
Old 09-03-2006, 01:07 AM
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I'm not sure about whether or not the pump can be reassembled 180 degrees out. I know that there are some pumps (like the old roosa masters on a john deere) that can be assembled 180 degrees out by accident. I don't think it is very common but I have seen it.
Old 09-03-2006, 03:50 AM
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Well.....when i did the last 2....and only VP pumps, i just opened all the injector lines at once and when thay all sprayed fuel out,just tightened them up and it fired right up!!!!
So You can give that a try but if you have opened each injector line one at a time....at the injector, and have got the spray of fuel out .....thay should be bleed.



I have been reading your first post again and you remove the timing cover to kill the KDP.

Well,....is it possible that you took the the inj pump gear out....or it fell out ...or you didn't realise the the pump gear need to stay our be timed if it was removed?
If there is evan the slimmist chance that that pump gear could be off evan one tooth......well it would be worth rechecking!
all the timing gears have marks on them and when all of are lined up to gether,......you in time
ether then that, the only thing that i could guess is that the pump key and the pump gear's groove,... didn't go in properly.
if none of this works......well......your going to have to take the pump back to the one that rebuilt it, any ways, so dubble check the key for damage before you return it.

Hope this helps!!!
Old 09-03-2006, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by flashgordon
Well,....is it possible that you took the the inj pump gear out....or it fell out ...or you didn't realise the the pump gear need to stay our be timed if it was removed?
If there is evan the slimmist chance that that pump gear could be off evan one tooth......well it would be worth rechecking!
all the timing gears have marks on them and when all of are lined up to gether,......you in time
ether then that, the only thing that i could guess is that the pump key and the pump gear's groove,... didn't go in properly.
if none of this works......well......your going to have to take the pump back to the one that rebuilt it, any ways, so dubble check the key for damage before you return it.

Hope this helps!!!
Yes we did take off the pump gear. but we also made sure all the marks were aligned before we took it off and when we put it back on.

so question: worst case the gear is off one tooth...I have read many times were guys adjust there timing buy moving tooth one gear so I still do not understand if mine is off one tooth how it would still not let the engie start???

See pics as to marks we used to make sure we had them in line

also last night when we were still confused we rotated engine till the timing pin went in and we checked and the holes(on inj pump gear) that you use to take the gear off ( 2 little holes on sides of big bolt) were set at 3 and 9 (hope that makes sense) so I honestly do not believe we are out of time..(if we are it is by a little)

This pic is off the crank markings


and this pic is of the gear markings
Old 09-03-2006, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by BRUISER
Well BAD NEWS..

Truck still will not fire....

Here is what we did.. please help if you can.

1st we re-bleed the entire system and we have fuel at every line that is to crack.. with good pressure..

2nd we took #1 valve cover off and rotated engine to make sure engine squirt fuel at same time as valves

3rd we rechecked throttle lever index and it is fine..

4th we re-bleed system again

5th we took off oil fill tube to check and make sure we did do everything at Top Dead Center and we are pretty **** cloe atleast by what we could feel and see with shroud/fan etc stil on

6th we hooked up umper battery since we were killing my regular battery

7th we continued to try to crank it even with throttle wide open and still no luck..
nothing not even a glimmer of hope

8th we check fuel cut off switch and it is workin correctly

SO I am SO lost I just have no idea what to do..

Here are the questions:
1: can a pump be built 180degeers off from when I gave the guy the pump
what I mean by this is when we got pump back the woodruff key is located in same place on pump when we gave it to guy to build it.. so is it possible to have the key in correct locationbut the insides be off ???

2: Please give me all ideas you can think of I really want to get this fixed and I am Just lost ????


hey sorry to hear that it won't start, also please don't stone me for this question but when you say that you had good pressure from the injector lines, was it really that strong of a spray, the reason i ask this is because my brother rebuilt his pump, quite easy to do, but he didnt get a certin little part on the pump put back on right and the pump still sprayed fuel from the injector lines, but it wasn't enough and you could tell because when we unhooked the injector line all the way from the injector it barely squirted out, basically what im saying is there might be a slight chance the pump rebuilder put some thing in wrong.
Old 09-03-2006, 07:20 PM
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hey brusier, in case you wanted to know i found a pic of the pump part my brother installed wrong.http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/jag/vw...i/injpump.html it is the third pic from top of page, there is a sleeve called the control sleeve and if it is put wrong, which can happen quite easily, then you will still get fuel, but not enough. hope this helps i now this isn't the exact same pump in our trucks but it is set up the same way ours are on the inside


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