ez_lle71

Hey everybody,
I unpluged my abs controller and all my problems went away!! I read in the sticky about redoing the brake lines around the valve at the rear. Does any body have a few pics or advice they could throw my way? Just a point in the right direction would be great!! Thanks
ez

MBolivar

ez,

The bypass is straight forward. I did mine a couple years ago so I apologize for not having part numbers. You'll need 2 brass fittings from NAPA. The line going INTO the valve will be adapted with the brass fittings. One fitting screws into the other. It's like you're reducing the thread size twice. Bend that line back above the rear axle where the rubber flex hose connects to the frame and connect it there. I think you could also run a new line straight from the proportioning valve on the frame under the driver's seat right to that rubber flex hose to the axle. Either way you'll have a rock hard pedal. I hope this makes sense. Shoot me a PM if you need further explaining.

Aloha,
Matt

brainfade

A word of caution: Many people do indeed disconnect that valve, and it often makes the pedal feel better. But... if you find yourself with no load on a slippery surface, the rears will go to lock long before the fronts with full pressure and no RWAL to dump it, and if the fronts are not on the same surface side to side (EG: one front wheel on ice, one on pavement), the truck will rotate around the front wheel with traction alot faster than you can catch it. Of course, this will only happen under extreme circuimstances and when you don't expect it. A solution, if you want to eliminate the RWAL is to get an adjustable prop valve and install it in the rear brake line. Find a wet parking lot or some gravel and do some stops empty, adjust the valve so that the fronts lock slightly ahead of the rears. This is your light load setting. When hauling heavy or towing, you can adjust the valve to a higher setting to get more out of the rears. Bottom line is that you always want the fronts to lock first under all conditions. This way you avoid that really scary unexpected direction change at the worst possible time.

It's really worth a little time to try and diagnose the problem. On mine it turned out to be just an accumulation of shavings on the sensor in the rear diff. Wiped it of, all was good. Another fellow found a bad ground wire, also an easy fix. Even if you have to buy a valve, they are less than $200.00 at most parts places.

Raspy

My 1st gen anti lock saved me from a crash during a very hard stop on a curve at highway speed. The truck will be less safe and drive worse without it.

Wetspirit

willieboy

I love my ABS. I have had it kick in twice in the last month. Both times, morons pulling out in front of me. I guarantee I would have been a sliding fool in both cases.

BTW, on the proportioning valve, you want the rears to lock just shy of the fronts locking. When the fronts lock you have no steering, that is bad.

wannadiesel

I agree with the last 3 posters. My RWAL has kept the bed in the back a couple times.

ez_lle71

I may try to fix the abs later then. One thing though, the controller is coming apart. I don't know if thats my problem or not. Have to check it out. thanks
ez

dpuckett

I disagree with the majority of posters here- RWAL is useless, unless one is on a wet road. I would rather lock up all 4 tires than lose steering and have the rear pushing me. I had the ABS activate in one 1stGen, and it is a real pucker power experience. I thought I was going to stop at x point, but ended up stopping 20ft past it, due to the ABS letting go of the rears. Had it been a car instead of a big dog, I would have hit it.

I grew up without RWAL (72F350 and 73/75 F250s), and learned and prefer to drive that way. Dodge brake systems were designed back in the 60s to early 70s with few changes til th mid 80s when RWAL was installed. I have it on good authority that the proportioning valves are the same from RWAL to nonRWAL. People stopped for many years without anti-lock brakes, and still do when they upgrade their system to apply full braking force.

Even without RWAL, I have a hard time locking up my wheels, and they seem to only do it on wet pavement.

Daniel

Raspy

[QUOTE=dpuckett;1523852]I disagree with the majority of posters here- RWAL is useless, unless one is on a wet road. I would rather lock up all 4 tires than lose steering and have the rear pushing me.



There is no steering with all four locked up.

The trouble is that the rears lock up way earlier than the fronts, not at the same time. If you are on a curve, or a slippery road it can get hairy. And when towing, if the rears lock your likely to jackknife.

Sometimes antilock can add to the stopping distance, but it does a lot more good things than bad. I'm really glad I have it and will definately keep it

Wetspirit

airmen65

i agree with wetspirit. ABS in any form is a good thing, and i want my rears to not lock up, so i can maintain normal steering and not have to worry about a jackknifing rear end.

GIT-R-DONE

I about wiped out some college kids because of the anti locks. I did away with mine. To each his own.