so im driving down the road, all of a sudden ive stalled and i roll to a stop, no warning. i try to crank but my wait to start/dash/lights dont even come on, theres just nothing.
so i check and clean my battery terminals still nothing. i jump the start straight from the battery and it cranks fine no problem except it wont fire.
so i pull a hose at the lift pump and crank. it spews diesel everywhere so thats good. then i crack open an injector and crank. get a bit of fuel seep out with bubbles. not good cause i think it should spray.

so then i notice that this weird fuse has blown on a wire that looks like it used to be a fuseable link just above my driver fender. i replace the fuse, blows right away. so there must be a short somewhere. i was talkin to my mechanic buddy on the phone and he suspects the circuit that is blowing is with my fuel shutoff solenoid, he said that would explain no fuel at injectors and no dash lights or cranking with key.

so i started tracing the wires. from the blown fuse, it heads toward the dash and disapears into the wiring harness. the other direction it branches off into 4 different wires. one changes colour a couple times then goes to a solenoid thats mounted on the fender, then from there is goes to what i think its a diode or rectifier (2 prongs) then from there, if im tracing it correct, it goes down my frame to my trailer plug.

the other wire, tucks back into the harness but from the best of my knowledge appears to reappear and goes into the asd relay on the fender.

the remaining to wires disapear into the harness and i havnt fully traced them yet.

I dont really understand how my trailer plug could be shorting the fuse. so i thought id just disconect that wire and that would eliminate any shorts in that portion, but my buddy advised that that could cause more damage else where. i also didnt think relays caused a short when they go bad.

SOOOOOOOOOOOOO..... if there anyone out there with vast electrical knowledge of this truck, that would be great.

horrible timing, i need the truck to move and gotta be out in a day.

 

Fuel solenoid on the pump check for power and if you have power it is the solenoid not working and needs to be replaced.
Two wires go to it. It is on the back side of the pump driver side of engine

 

youll need to isolate various loads on the circuit, with a schematic in the sticky, for the ignition circuit, disconnect alternator wires and regulator, pu a test light between the fuselink circuit that fried, it will light up, showng short, start unplugging everything in the circuit till the light goes out, or dimms, the area of the component that dimms the light you disconnected, will be your focus, and at this point, it will hold the fuse.

 

So from what I gather it's probly a safe bet to say my shutoff solenoid is fine right? It's an electrical problem that's causing it to shutoff and also effecting my ignition.

Since I'm moving and gotta be out today. Would it be safe to Gut the solenoid and then bypass my ignition and jump the starter staright from the battery to get it running and drivable? Also, would that even work?
I just need it drivable asap and i can fix the real problem soons I'm done moving.

Another thought i just had. Is there a way to electrically or mechanically hold the solenoid in the running position? And then I can just use the manual shutdown lever to turn off. I know my dash wouldn't work still but if I could just get it drivable that'd be incredible!

 

that will work fine

 

So a little update.
Sent a hot wire the asd solenoid. Hear a click on the fender. I assume that's the asd relay. I was gonna jump the starter but thought I'd try the key and the ignition worked to start it. Idled really low for the first bit then got up to normal.

So since my key works to start It with the bypass wire, but not shut down. Does that tell me that the short is somewhere between the asd solenoid and the blown fuse?
Any other ideas?

 

So I've been driving around using the hot wire straight to the asd solenoid. And using manual lever to shut down. Was wondering if there is any harm is driving for a few days like that? Or for how long?

And anyone have any thoughts about the above post?

 

Yes, it could be harmful if the wire you added doesn't have a fuse in it. As soon as the short shows up again it will melt some wiring if it doesn't have a fuse to blow.

Check the shutdown solenoid wire for chafing where it disappears between the rear of the injector pump and the throttle linkage bracket that's bolted to the pump. I've seen a few short out there and burn a fusible link.

 

Also, if you are leaving that circuit hot all the time and shutting down with the manual lever, you are keeping a lot of stuff powered up and drawing battery power. Additionally, if the short comes back while you aren't in the truck it will end up much worse if nobody is there to intervene at the first hint of smoke. It could be a real inferno before you notice it.

 

I don't have a fuse on the wire. I should. But I thought Inwouldnt have another of the same short since the fuse on the original wire that shorted is still popped. My new wire goes straight from the batt to the solenoid. And I disconnect it after each shutdown so as to not leave it draining.

 

your back feeding into the system with too small a wire, overloading it, it sounds like something isnt active that was previously shorting, you need a schematic

 

I've got the manual but am horrible at understanding wiring schematics.
Correct menif I'm wrong but if I turn the key on there should be batt voltage at atleast one side of the blown fuse? Then my short lies somewhere between the solenoid and the other side?

And for the wire, I'm using the same size as originally goes to the solenoid. And I don't think I'd be backfeeding anything if I disconnect the original solenoid supply wire.
But again correct me if I'm wrong. Electronics aren't my forte

 

didnt you jump power to the solenoid directly? or did you jump the blown fuse link?

 

i can pull up a schematic, im looking at the sticky pic showing terminal 87 on the asd relay, being the energized circuit, is this where you jumped it?

 

No my jump is a wire straight. From the batt to the solenoid terminal on the back of the ip.
So far I can't see how the fuse that keeps blowing is related to the shutdown solenoid. Previous owner done some weird trailer additions. And as far as I've traced so far, the side of the blown fuse that still has power with key on, goes to a trailer plug and headlights

Which side ofthe fuse would my short be on?