Micaiahfied

i knew when i picked this truck up that it was going to give me some electrical issues. so here is what is going on. most of the time, when the key is taken out of the ignition the power windows and blower motor for the heat and a/c still have juice. if i mess with the key turning the cylinder back and forth i can get it to a point where it shuts all that stuff off. sometimes when the truck is running they don't work... it seems to be related to the ignition, is that possible?
now for the new one. i haven't messed with the truck for a few days, but when i went out tonight to move it in the driveway a little the headlights and power locks didn't work (nor did dash lights or running lights) no amount of playing with the key got the windows or blower to work. radio is pulled out so i have no idea if that works or not. truck still runs and gauges all work. any thoughts?

also i do plan to change ignition to match my other truck, the key does not seem to slide in and out as easily as it should, and i am hoping that will fix some of my problem. the battery only has like 490CCA so that will be the first thing that i change, and definately before the truck leaves the driveway again, any ideas if that could cause any of my problems?

wannadiesel

The ignition switch (not the cylinder you put the key in) is probably worn out.

The headlight problem is probably unrelated, check the fusible links.

apache

Im by no means an expert here but it sounds like the ignition switch has seen better days. Some chevy trucks have a rod that runs down to the base of the st coloumn that has to move with the key to make contact with all the circuts needed. I dont know if DC is the same. My buddy had one go south on his 80??suburban, By the time he was done I had to stop him from dousing it with gas and burning it to the ground. Royal PITA. I would look closely at all the connections comming off the + on the battery and the fuseable links etc. The 93 350 I once had had many intermitten problems from this area, windows/heater/air/ Check eng light, It always still ran however.

fkmitchell

I am having simular problems. l have power until i complete the circuit. I have power at the ict with key on and at the fuse box. If i run jumper every thing works right. This has me stumped.

lovemysan

Sounds like the ignition box to me also. Its not hard to swap. Cost about $25. You need to pull the plastic trim off the column. You'll need some torx screw drivers #15 & #20. I don't think bits and driver will work because one screw is deep. If there are tamper proof screws holding the ignition in you'll have to knock the centers out with a punch. Straight forward from there on. Its simple to swap compared to some GM's that I've seen.
good luck