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Dual Batteries question

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Old 11-24-2004, 08:46 PM
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Dual Batteries question

Does anyone run dual batteries in their truck?If so where do you mount the second one?
Old 11-24-2004, 09:15 PM
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The guys who run dual batteries make a tray that fits on top of the factory tray, the batteries fit in the new tray sideways. I have not found this to be necessary in my climate. The truck started without grid heaters and without being plugged in in temps as low as 17 degrees, which I realize is not that cold.
Old 11-25-2004, 02:13 AM
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I have a 1991 D-350 Dually and I have installed dual group-31 starting batteries in the engine compartment in addition to a 8-D deep cycle to run my 3000 watt inverter in the bed. I made a bracket for the second battery and placed it at the rear of the right fenderwell next to the hood spring and moved the washer bottle ahead of the turbo. You could connect them togather in parallel with cables the same way the GM diesels fixed their mistake but you don't need all of that current to crank the CTD. I used a Sure Power Combiner and parallel 100 amp relay so it could handle a deep discharge that way I can always start the truck should one go dead. I also replaced the unreliable ND 120 amp alternator with a 140 Amp Leece Neville OTR unit 85 amps@ idle. All of the connections are made with #2 welding cable with crimped on ends. I also rerouted most of the load to the second battery so I can leave my lights on and not affect my starting battery. I have pictures of the alternator in my photo gallery.
Old 11-25-2004, 09:03 PM
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I have 2 batteries in both of my CTDs.
I have the second battery isolated from the truck battery when the key is off.
That way I can run my camper on my 1 truck and by service bed lights and accesories on the other truck. That way I will always have the truck battery to start on. It sounds like a few guys have already done this.
I built an angle iron tray and welded it right to the top of the factory tray.
I have started my truck at zero degrees on the 1 battery.

Jim, You say the alternators arnt any good? I guess I am lucky, I have been jumpstarting semi trucks with this truck for 2 years.
I suppose if I have problems I will do the same as you and go to the 130 or 160 amp truck alternator.

Good luck on your battery tray install

Frosty
Old 11-26-2004, 05:06 PM
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Frostie: No I am not saying the ND alternators are not any good but I have had to replace too many of them on my truck. See I usually work nights and I run a pretty heavy load off the batteries. The ND units are not ment to put out a lot of current for very much time and the charge curve is on the low side somewhere around 20- 30 amps at an idle, there is not enough mass in the unit to dissapate the heat generated at full output. The rebuilder said they are ment to recharge the battery after the inital discharge of the start and run the load of the lighting and such. Any additional loads above what is being consumed by the truck then needs to added in. My work lights and tools I need to use might cause my inverter to draw up to 75- 80 amps from my 8-D so I need to recharge this also.
I replaced most of the external lighting on the truck with LED's and saved there. Now I can idle my truck and pretty much maintain my inverter consumption. Also I might only drive for 30 min to get home and all of the batteries would never get recharged for the next day. So I kinda copied the system used in the rescue and paramedic rigs. It is kinda neat to watch someone trying to jumpstart someone for about 20 min. then you clamp on your jumpers with cables the size of garden hose and start then up. Can you use full size batteries Grp.31 when you put them side by side? Later Jim.
Old 11-26-2004, 06:38 PM
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I have two "Red Top" optimas mounted sideway's on the "Factory" tray.. they fit there real nice... I just made a new bracket that goes over both battery's..
Old 11-26-2004, 06:51 PM
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Jim where did you pick up the bigger alt? Is it a direct bolt on or do you need to modify brackets and such, and how much was it?. Also how'd you link the deep cycle and the starting batteries?

I've been looking at different setups in others' trucks and one guy even used a simple Ford-style solenoid to use as a disconnect b/t batteries. Cool idea, hooked up to a switch, but
i don't think I'd like using one of those solenoids for an extended period of time. Something about my truck catching on fire.

Anyways just looking for the best way to setup my own electrical system, I'm going to rewire the entire thing soon, the wiring's horendous, and I'd like to have the dual batteries in the engine bay, and dual batteries in the toolbox in the bed, probably red-tops all the way around. The batteries in the bed I'd like to isolate to use for an inverter at least 2000watt, 3000 would be better.

Any ideas appriciated.
Ian
Old 11-26-2004, 08:02 PM
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I got my alternator from my local heavy duty truck parts, it is a Leece Neville 110-555HD or known as a triple nickle. I got a NEW one for about $250.00 alot cheaper that dodge wants for a reman. The install requires very minimal mods. You need 2 bushings, new belt, 2 bolts, new pulley (I have the # for) that you need to have the back side machined down and 1 small curved heater hose. I thought it was going to be a real project but I put in alot of research and it took only a few hours. I made it so I can reinstall the old ND in the field if I had to. I documented every step of the install if anyone is intrested. I think even the rigs with the regulators in the computer can use this if you can bypass the regulator. The 555 is self exciting and has a built in regulator. It is so simple .. Next I connect the batteries with a Sure Power Combiner and a few 100 amp relays to handle the extra current, all connections are made with #2 welding cable. Using a "Ford type solenoid" works but be sure it is NOT a STARTER solenoid but a continioud duty type. You can get these at any RV supply or through Graingers. Notice the 2 solenoids that power your grid heaters? they are 100 amp White Rodgers industrial relays. A regular ford solenoid will burn up in about 20 min.
The way I have it, all batteries are charged yet isolated from each other but if I need to I can parallel all of them and output over 4000 amps. I also installed relays to control the headlights, 2 for each lamp so there is no load on the light switch and a relay to flash all of the marker and tail lights (ICC Flasher) Move most of the electrical load off the starting battery. In the rear, use heavy cable, I used .00 welding cable so you can start the engine with them. I used to work on diesels and still on generators and I like to have a redundant system.
Have you considered moving both exhaust stacks to the left then put a 6" snorkle on the righr side to feed the turbo? Think a ram air from a big rig should get some serious air. Let me know if I can help. Jim.
Old 11-26-2004, 09:49 PM
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Have you considered moving both exhaust stacks to the left then put a 6" snorkle on the righr side to feed the turbo? Think a ram air from a big rig should get some serious air. Let me know if I can help. Jim.
Haven't considered that, but I've been keeping my eye out for one of the side filter from a semi to mount in the bed, I just figure though that two stacks on one side would look goofy. But some of these air filters on the semis are 29" talk and like 8" around, figured that'd be the ultimate BHAF. If I come up with it I'll let you know. In the meantime though any other part #s you have for the alternator conversion I'd love to have because I plan to do it soon.

Thanks a bunch!
Old 11-27-2004, 04:15 AM
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I found the conversion notes, they are in a word file. I will post the pictures then will need to send you the file. Jim.
Old 11-28-2004, 07:12 AM
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Jim, good info,
but if you payed $250 for that alternator someone took you for a ride.
I get them on sale for about $129, regular price is about $179. that is a very commen alternator that is sold new with no core. Im sure if someone wanted one I could ship it for less than $200
I am sure I will install one like that some day, I can jump start semi trucks in just a few minutes with my stock one. Mine isnt used continuois like yours though.
thanks for the good info.

Frosty
Old 11-29-2004, 01:37 AM
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frostie:
You are right my friend, I checked my reciept and I found I bought other toys on the same ticket. The alternator was $135.00 but in addition I also got all of my LED marker lights, 2 Baldwin oil filters, 10 gallons Rotella 40 wt. oil, the new belt and a vanilla scented tree. Thanks for noticing this, I would not want to misinform any of our friends. Also I am going to post the pictures in "My Photo Gallery" and somehow get the instructions posted as soon as I figure out how, for the Alternator conversion.
Below is something you can download and get some good information from for your electrical system.. Later Jim.

Go to this link and download "Training Manuals"

http://www.prestolite.com/pgs_support/support_0.php
Old 11-29-2004, 08:46 AM
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Does anyone have a quick schematic or picture of their dual battery setup. I have an extra battery bought at the same time as I bought the one for the truck. Equal cca etc, so why not put it in the truck now that the other vehicle is dead?
Old 11-30-2004, 12:35 AM
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I just sent mine to the body shop today for about a week, but when I get it back I will shoot some pictures and post them so you can see how I did mine. Jim.
Old 11-30-2004, 08:07 AM
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Thanks Jim! I appreciate it, and look forward to your post.


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