hay guys has anyone had a problem with the drive shaft making a tickn sound in between the bearing and the rearend it sounds like there is something in it any ideas on what it could be or a way to fix it thanks guy s

 

u joints or carrier bearing come to mind. bad bearing will transmit sound thru hollow tube(drive shaft)
Clark

 

its probally the center bearing going out

 

Have you jacked up the rear and rotated the shaft by hand??

I have known of a speck of weld getting in the hollow tube and rattling around.

Sound will travel and is hard to pinpoint.

Also, a bad carrier bearing will spin inside the rubber.

It will smell like burning rubber.

Drive it several miles, then quickly crawl under and sniff (don't run over yourself).

 

It could be the carrier bearing but I would say its one of the U-joints. When they get dry the needles start breaking up and cause a poping noise.

 

There is a metal dust shield pressed on to the shaft to protect the steady bearing, and another pressed on to the pinion yoke to protect the pinion seal. Occasionally I have seen these dust shields come loose and make noise, or sometimes they will get cocked and rub as the shaft turns. Other than that, I would examine the u-joints, as was mentioned.

 

mine made a pinging noise when my original u joints (non servicable) started to go out. lucky I caught it when I did, the aft u joint from the front half of the DS was totally dry and corroded. After a long pull it would ping louder,,, go figure!! if your truck still has the originals on, depending on how many miles of use and abuse they should be replaced with REAL spicer u joints, not koyo. The spicers aren't really any more $$$ you just need to find them. A spicer big rig drliveline specialty place would surely have them. I had all mine replaced and balanced at one of the spicer driveline places, and all I can saw is WOW I can't belivev I put up with all those vibes before... I'd say 175- 250k is normal replacement time for the ujoints? anyone else? how long did your originals last?

 

ok thanks ill will be grttn new u joints and baerings in the am try to put theme in the pm ill keep you posted

 

Around here there's a place called Drivelines Northwest in Tacoma (I think they're still there). They do EVERYTHING from rebuilding your tired unit to fabricating a custom driveline for some piece of old heavy equipment that's no longer available. One time I took a driveline out of an old Chev truck that needed a new yoke put on. They cleaned it up, changed the yoke, put in the new u-joint as the other end didn't need em. They balanced the thing and then painted it black. Their price was VERY reasonable and I know I didn't get screwed as they could have charged me for both u-joints but didn't. The counter guy gave us a tour and showed us some of the equipment they have and use, which was impressive especially for someone that hadn't seen a shop like this so equiped. Machine welders, special precision cutters, wow, they have it all. Anyway, if you have a driveline shop around your area like we do here and you want to get it right, may I suggest using their services when looking at maintenence on your drivelines? All I do anymore, when it comes to drivelines, is either take em out or put them back in. And it sure beats the Hell out of trying to get some precision piece of equipment exactly right like these drivelines have to be on the old bench out in the tractor shed. All things considered, their prices (at least around here) aren't that bad, comparatively speaking. Chuck

 

Out here in the sticks, where the hens have to wear bloomers to keep the hoot-owls off them, we are not so fortunate to have specialty shops of any kind.

Its do it yourself, or do without.

A few machine-shops will do drive-line work in between doing a little of everything else.

I find it advantageous to be good friends with someone with access to a long-bed lathe.

What would be ideal is if yokes and u-joints were standardized.

They aren't even standard in one make of truck.

Transmission yokes, pinion yokes, and u-joints should be standardized such that if a yoke broke, one off of any brand would interchange; and, u-joints should all be the same.

 

I had an obnoxious pinging, primarily when I would start out, or shift from 1st to Reverse ... ujoints were good, but I cleaned and greased them anyway ... carrier bearing was good... I thought it was slop in the rearend, so I ignored it. When I swapped in my 80, the noise persisted.

Long story short, it was the slip yoke... I popped the metal bands holding the boot over it, cleaned out the crusty 12-year-old grease, and lubed it with chassis lube, and reassembled. *presto - no more pinging. what a relief.

I used zipties to hold the boot back over the joint and added "grease slip-yoke" to my PM schedule every 10k miles.

 

I just was checking Ebay and saw this driveline for $75. Here's the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rear-...QQcmdZViewItem

Check out the pics of the "donor vehicle".... ouch!!

 

thanks guy the ujoints were fine just replaced them and the bearing that was fried so i fig i would do it since i was there and had the cash thanks for the help