First of all, thanks to Ilikebikes for pointing me to THIS thread. It's a super-long thread by a guy who painted a few cars using RUSTOLEUM paint and a FOAM ROLLER. That's right - and it is funny, right up until you see the pics of the cars that he's done - downright amazing. Apparently the Rustoleum paint is hard as nails, and using light coats can be sanded and buffed to a glossy finish, comparable with a good single-stage paint. Anyhow, he inspired me. My roof is beginning to rust, I'd like a new paint job, and I just really don't want to lay down $1500 to $5000 at this moment.

Today I started by sanding the roof and doing some minor Bondo work. This is my first time doing bodywork, but I have used wood Bondo for years and so I am comfortable with the sanding process (which probably means that I will s-u-c-k at it!). I will get pics tomorrow of the work in progress and I will also attempt to get many pics, so that maybe this thread will end up as helpful info for other tightwads out there.

Since I began reading that thread (it's long) I have seen a lot of impressive work that others have completed, so I am confident that it can work. I will keep everyone (who is interested) posted.

ps - Ilikebikes - post your pics here too!

 

Keep the updates comin! I am amazed at that post it is looonnng, my second day and only at page 12. This really sparked my interest and can't wait to hear your results.

 

Keep us updated. I read that whole post, amazing! I want to hear how it shakes out for you, please give as much detail as possible, problems, materials used, tips, photos, etc... Don't get me wrong there could not be any more detail in the super human post but it is nice to hear from one of us. I am very interested in the process as I too need to paint the ole girl after a bit of body work.

Now, lets see some progress....

 

I met a guy a few years ago who came in to the shop for service who had painted his truck with rustoleum and a foam roller. I was visibly amazed, especially at the outcome, the only downside was all the sanding and polishing to get the look he was after. But keep us posted. I can't wait to see the progress!

 

Be interesting to hear your results...

I have been painting my flat bed for a number of years using rustoleum and a regular roller. It actually did a respectable job. It rolls easily and smooths out. Easy to get runs though... My bed gets abused with all sorts of stuff sliding on and off. I usually paint it every couple years to keep the rust stains off and the rustoleum is cheap and easy... Never though about using it on the cab though....

Keep us posted

 

Here are some pics of Day 1 - Roof Section - Sanding and some Bondo work - please keep in mind... this is my first time doing bodywork. Feel free to laugh at any time.



Another day 1 pic:





And here are a couple from Day 2 - Sandable primer and more Bondo, then some wet-sanding with 320.







Enjoy! (and wish me luck - I hope to lay down the first 2 coats by this weekend.

 

I did 2 coats at a time when I did my test spots. 2 coats, let it sit for the day/night, wetsand, and repeat.

 

I have an 88 Dodge 4X4 short bed I inquired at several Body shops in referance to a complete Paint JOB? two Tone--my truck was originally all grey Silver--they all quoted about the same price--$1000 to $1500--@#$%^! are You CRAZY? in my desporation!! I was at an Auto Store & noticed the rattle can touch up Paint--so I desided to try a can or two? I touched up one fender & liked what I SAW! so I got out my sander & Taped UP One Side & sanded it pretty good Blew it OFF & used a couple of sheets off a paper towel Roll & w/ my air compressor Blew the area Off real Good--& Shook my Rattle CAN & went to painting! the Trick is light coats! don*t try & cover it w/ just One heavy Coat! & after a Few tries I got the hang of IT? well it took me a couple of Days but I did get it Done!--I*M going to get one of those WAl-Mart throw away cameras & I can*t post Photos but I*M get the Disk & have a few sent to you ALL as I*M not Bragging! but It came out pretty Nice! its now a Dark Gray Silver center section w/ Marron lower & Marron hood edges ending at the rear of the drivers Door I added that Stripping Tape to fancy it up a Bit?--& I think?? it looks as Good as Most Pro $1000 dollar Jobs Locally I*M Happy w/ IT--for few days Work & less than $50.00 in Materials I pulled into a localreturant where all the Young Crowd hangs out! as they know ME & my Truck! & a few looked it over! YOU had your Truck Painted! YEH! as it was pretty Shabby! WHO? Painted It? I Dono? his Name! I*LL be YA! thats cost some Bucks! I didn*t have the Heart to tell E*M I did It w/ Rattle cans! as they have some pretty nice Cars! the Wife laughed after We enterd the resturant--as She gazed out the window at Our Truck! You know it dose look Pro done! I*M Impressed! as YOU did a DAM good JOB! but Do they take OFF points for You Swearing?--& That SMILE! but All in All it looks as Good as If? some one Really knew what He was Doing!--I still have the Wheels to DO! as their now that Gray Silver & their going to be Marron--I painted the center section of the Hood BBQ flat Black & My fisher trinagle & pistion Marron--to match my paint scheme!--I think? it looks pretty SHARP! & You can*t Beat the PRICE! How it stands UP?? I DONO? as time will TELL? Gve ME a week? & I*LL send some Photos! & You Guys can JUDGE! --Ole JIM--

 

Here are pics of Days 2 and 3.

Day 2 - after sanding I did the first 2 coats. First coat at about 4:00pm and the second about 11:00pm. First coat was a little thick so I thinned out my paint to almost water-like for the second coat. I was happy overall with the way it leveled out.



Day 3 - I wet sanded the first 2 coats and then I decided that I would shoot a little primer on some areas that I maybe should have before...



So far I have learned that wet-sanding is a PITA and that people who are good at bodywork should be appreciated - I'm not one of them.

Then I did the 3rd coat. Very thin paint this time. LOTS of bubbles, some did not come out - a little dissappointed, but I am determined to make this work. I am also considering doing one panel of my truck with the same Rustoleum Professional paint, but using a rattle-can, just to see the difference. Here's a pic of the 3rd coat:



I'll be posting more in a day or two...

 

Here is a suggestion. I used to restore and paint cars. Lately, Ive done some construction equipment and trailers with rustoleum too .

Your useing white thats good. Rustoleum doesnt have any UV protection like good quality auto paint so your colored paints are going to oxidize or fad farely eazy.

Anyway dont thin it if you can avoid it. It will peel off eazyer if its thinned. Trial and error.
Get some "smoothy" at a paint and body shop. It comes in a small bottle with a eye dropper.

Try Putting some in your rustoleum, After you roll it on thick , the smoothy will make the paint lay down, makeing ''orange peel" , bubbles, fish-eyes, or your paint roller texture to the smooth out. No wet sanding is a good thing

 

Nice work so far, keep us updated. I'd be interested to see what sort of difference you get with the rattle can

 

Thanks for the info - I'll look for the "Smoothy". The original instructions said that the paint had to be thinned out with Mineral Spirits to nearly water-like. I may have thinned too much, so I will back off on the next coat. I am going to try different methods on different panels I think.

Do you know of any UV protectant that can be added to the Rustoleum?

 

Dont know if there is a additive UV protection. Ask at the Autopaint shop. Most my painting I did was 15++ years ago when we could still get acrilic enamel and urathane enamel. Its banned now because of the Enviromental laws. I have used the new paint a few times though. Expensive stuff.

Dont worry about thinning it, Thats ok. I just noticed when I was doing some construction equipment that gets trashed all the time, getting real heavy thick coat would be more durable. Some trailer fenders I did with a bunch of thinned coats peeled. but maybe I sprayed it in the hot sun or something.

That Smoothy is good stuff . It makes the paint flow out , kinda like melting smooth. I thing the new clear coats have a simular ingrediant that "melts" into the dry base coat

Enjoy

 

Here is a pic of the 4th coat of paint. 3rd coat had lots of bubbles and required a LOT of sanding. I have definitely had a couple of "WHY AM I DOING THIS" moments, but each coat is better. The pic looks pretty good, but up close it does have eggshell and will require a lot of finish sanding and buffing on the last coat.

BTW - I didn't come up with any "Smoothie", but I did add some PENETROL to this batch of paint and it does help with the flow and leveling of the paint. Also, this batch is not as water-thin as the last.

 

The article mentioned not getting the paint shaken as it will get air bubbles in it. Was your paint shaken or stirred ?