chuck'64

Thanks for the pics Ace that helps a lot.

I checked on the Hellwig bar it looks nice but also has a nice price!

I also thought about using an extra torsion bar from my 1964 Plymouth Savoy
to make a sway bar the length is perfect and I can fab the rest of the system for next to nothing but I wonder if it will be to springy (if that makes sense)

Ace

I cannot imagine how you would use a torsion bar. You can't bend them. Or if you could, they would have to be heated, become very brittle and no longer be any good for this aplication.

chuck'64

The bar is about 3.5 inches wider than the frame with a hex on each end.

I was going to make some arms to fit over the hex and mount the bar to the under side of the frame with some sway bar bushings of the right size and connect them to the axle housing with some end links or something.

Does this make any sense to anyone else or have I completely lost my mind???

Ace

I thought you might be thinking of something like that, but I still cannot imagine how it would allow for any more than an inch of suspension travel. Those things are loaded with serious pressure on the business end and do not actually move all that much. You'd need some really rube goldbergesque levers and arms resembling the function of the entire front suspension of a torsion-sprung mopar.

wannadiesel

Sure, this is how most race car sway bars are set up. Make the arms long enough that suspension travel doesn't cause a lot of angularity, my guess is that you'll want them between a foot and a foot and a half long. Try to set your brackets up so that the arms are roughly parallel with the ground.

chuck'64

Thanks for the input guys the torsion bars are from a slant six car and are very small in diameter I think it would work well.

I will probably start drawing it up in solidworks next week at work and see what problems arise

Now I have a bigger problem the left upper ball joint pulled out of the control arm and I am having trouble finding new replacements does any body know where to get them other than the dealership?

And also it asks if I have the 3000# or the 4000# axle the door tag says 3880# so I assume I have the 4000# axle.

Also what ball joints thread in and what ones press in?

Thanks
Curtis

chuck'64

Here is what I found

I was only going about 40 mph when it happened I was lucky!

olddodgetrucks

happens quite often ,clean up everything and mig weld b/joints in

chuck'64

Do you think that these will work?

Upper Control Arm Left
Upper Control Arm Right

chuck'64

Does anybody know it these will work?

I need to get the truck up and running again.

Thanks
Curtis

Fergavs

I'm not positive but I'm pretty sure you need ones designed for the d350. I think all diesels (d250/d350) came with the d350 parts. It says for d100, d150, etc. which I'm pretty sure wont be the same as the diesel parts.

jckdann7

I think those are the ones I bought. Hang on and Ill dig in my records. They were from ACCARS I know. Beware of customer service. I had a little trouble with them, They did offer to resend all the parts but I had all the parts I really needed and at that time, I was working 100 hours a week so I just fixed the truck and ate the parts I couldnt use.

jckdann7

Here is the ones I bought. Insted of the bushings I they sent me some crap for a van. I went to napa and got the bushings.

chuck'64

Thanks, I ordered them bare I already have the rest (ball joints bushing etc.)
I have been planning on doing a front end rebuild for sometime, I guess now is a good time!

Hopefully they will be here soon I need to get the truck running again it figures that diesel would drop in price as soon as the truck stops running!