What are the differences between the Turbo Upgrade Kits from HHT and Gillett?

How do they compare like with the HTT Stage III and what is comparable in the Gillett Brand, and how do the prices compare.

How about availability?
Would this work OK with a 14cm housing?

Thanks Jim

 

Price. GDS Stage II = HTT Stage III. Get either one, they are the same Holset parts. Both have been hard to get, you'll have to call to see who has what in stock.

It would work fine with a 14 cm housing or even a 12 cm wastegated. I don't know your driving patterns, but if you spend most of your time on the highway you will be happier with the 18.5 cm the truck came with or a 16 cm. In town is where the smaller housings are more fun.

 

as of yesterday GDS had the CH-05 in stock which is the 60mm wheel and housing

 

i ordered gds ch05 yesterday from gds cost 205 plus shipping will be here monday or tuesday

 

My driving habits:
Probably about half the time I will be on the freeway and the rest local driving.

An average trip on the freeway is around 100 miles and probably several times a week.

If I had a 14cm housing, at what freeway speeds would the size start being an issue, the freeway speeds tend to be around 70-75 MPH

So it would be ok to use the GDS Stage II or the HTT Stage III with my stock housing and how much of a difference would I notice.

Is there much of a price difference between the two.

Is there a 16cm housing that I could use?

The tech where I get my Bosch parts said he would get me one for free when he gets one.

Sorry for all the questions.
Jim

 

the HTT 60mm upgrade is $400+50 core
GDS is 205 and no core
same parts
there 16cm you could use GDS sells them and so does HTT and most other places,
the 16cm's spool good on an auto but i have never ridden in a 14cm truck with an auto yet
but the gasket matched 14cm i have seems to pull hard off the bottom all the way up, has on every truck its been on. all 5speeds thou

i would say 60/14 or the 60/16 but i would try the 14cm because if you out grow the 14 you can go back to the 18

 

What does the kit include?

Is it the compressor wheel, the back plate and a new housing?

Will this compressor upgrade give me a 4” inlet and if it does what else would I need to complete the swap besides a larger inlet pipe? how about gaskets?

Thanks Again

BTW Why such a price diffrence, is it Titanium clad?

 

The HTT stage III (equivalent to the GDS II) is currently going for $275, but they are only listing them for the HX35. Why $70 more? Because HTT is a premium priced online merchant. They are the same Holset parts - a 60mm wheel and matching compressor housing. That's all, two pieces. HTT and GDS are resellers. You could deal with Holset directly, but importing the stuff is kinda complicated and they probably just don't bother with individual U.S. customers. That's why HTT can charge whatever they want. I'll bet their markup is %100 over cost.

The backing plate is for the StageIV. 4" intake is all you really have to worry about. I saw redlinear had one on eBay a couple days ago, IIRC.

 

Yes.

Depends one whether or not you swap turbine housings. At most you will need the drain tube gasket and the gasket between the turbine housing and the manifold. Your Bosch connection probably has a couple sets laying around, but even at the Dodge dealer you won't pay more than $10 for them.

You are also going to need a silicone reducer boot (and clamps for same) to connect the new compressor to your crossover pipe.

That's alright, I have more questions for you. What kind of a difference are you looking for? Faster spool, more top end, lower EGT, more turbo sound?

With the amount of freeway driving you do, I would encourage you to stick with the 18.5 cm housing you have or take advantage of the free 16 cm. Since you have a 727/3.07 truck, your engine is spinning pretty fast at 75 mph. The smaller housings like the 14 cm will hurt your fuel economy and make the engine feel a little restricted at speed.

Have you thought about noise? The HTT/GDS kits whistle pretty loud. I like it, but others have found it annoying. You may want to get a silencer ring from a 2nd gen guy who has removed his, they will usually give them away.

 

As Quoted by wannadiesel
Yes.

Depends one whether or not you swap turbine housings. At most you will need the drain tube gasket and the gasket between the turbine housing and the manifold. Your Bosch connection probably has a couple sets laying around, but even at the Dodge dealer you won't pay more than $10 for them.

You are also going to need a silicone reducer boot (and clamps for same) to connect the new compressor to your crossover pipe.

That's alright, I have more questions for you. What kind of a difference are you looking for? Faster spool, more top end, lower EGT, more turbo sound?

I would like it to have a bit better response from a stop and then from maybe 35-40 on up to about 60 MPH, it seems to do all right by itself while cruising at higher speeds.

With the amount of freeway driving you do, I would encourage you to stick with the 18.5 cm housing you have or take advantage of the free 16 cm. Since you have a 727/3.07 truck, your engine is spinning pretty fast at 75 mph. The smaller housings like the 14 cm will hurt your fuel economy and make the engine feel a little restricted at speed.

If I do keep the 18.5cm how much slower will it spool up from a stop compared to the 16cm until the added boost of the upgraded compressor overcome the lag from the larger size? Or am I confusing you.

With my gearing and tire size about how many RPM's should I be turning at 75MPH and where is this in the power band?

An educated guess of the turbine shaft speed? 100,000-150,000 shaft RPM's?

When would idling down before you shut down become an issue?

Have you thought about noise? The HTT/GDS kits whistle pretty loud. I like it, but others have found it annoying. You may want to get a silencer ring from a 2nd gen guy who has removed his, they will usually give them away.

I could live with a bit more noise on the outside.

How much can you hear inside the truck compared to outside?
My cab is pretty well attenuated from outside noises like I had mentioned I could barely hear a siren coming at me with the windows rolled up.

If you listen to my truck in the video I can barely hear any turbo whine now, should I be able to with the new one?
And then I should probably turn up the fuel.

How long did it take for the newness to wear off and you stopped driving around with a big smile on your face? While everybody looked at you wondering what was wrong with you.



I feel I have already passed the point of no return.

Thanks for taking the time to answer all of my questions.
Jim

 

Hey Jim, your cab must be very.......fluffy we'll say to make it that quiet inside, these trucks are rattle boxes.

Your 18.5 may be a LITTLE slow on the bottom end with the 60mm but would pull like a bull up in the top end. If i was you i'd stick with the 18.5 and see if you like it, if not its easy to swap to a NON w/g 16cm.

Do you have a 3200 spring? good upgrade on a no O/D truck.

 

I just got mine in yesterday. Had to take off the whole turbo because I couldn't get my downpipe out of the way sufficiently to access the 3/4" nut with the turbo on. It was still pretty easy, even for the crappy mechanic that I am.

The turbo whistle is not bad for me, I wish it were louder actually. I am still using the stock intake "slinky", an unmolested airfilter box, and a K&N filter. I'm looking to going back to the BHAF soon.

I'd say just doing this mod dropped EGT's by about 50*. Boost is up 2 psi.

 

The free 16 cm will get you a little. You still have the stock torque converter? I hesitate to recommend the smaller housings in your situation because of fuel economy concerns.
The compressor upgrades don't noticeably hurt the spool-up. I wouldn't worry about making things worse off the line.

About 2500 RPM. That's at the top end with the stock governor spring.Sounds about right.

As long as you don't shut it down while you are under boost it will be OK.

You WILL be able to hear the turbo in that truck.

I still drive around with a stupid grin on my face.

 

My s300 whistle,is pretty dang loud....and I love it.

 

Rattles and squeaks are not allowed on my truck, I have spent lot of time and effort to remove the interior down to the bare sheet metal and apply 1/2" foam core over the factory tar board, then 5/8" carpet padding and then the new carpeting back on top.

That is 1 1/8" of insulation under the carpeting. When you open the door the carpet is level with the doorsill and it feels real cushy. A lot of the sound comes in from behind the seat so I now have some 1" behind there.

Besides the sound it also helped to insulate the cab, I can leave a cold bottle of water or a drink on the floor at night and then when I get into the truck around noon the next day it is still cold.

Behind the door panels hides 5/8” of carpet padding, also all of the spring clips still retain the panel to the door not just a few like I see on so many trucks.

I am looking for something I can line the inside of the door shell with to deaden it with that is cheaper then DynaMat.

When you close my doors you can feel the pressure on your ears and you need to pull the door hard to latch it.

There is a lot you can do to quiet the inside of your cab that doesn’t cost a lot of money.

Yes I do have a 3200-RPM spring and I use every bit of it.

I am also playing with an idea to wrap the muffler with a blanket of hi-temp fiberglass insulation and then an aluminized cover to attenuate the sounds that are transmitted from the housing to the floorboard. I think it should help

Jim