wannadiesel

And if you don't mind the factory sheetmetal pan, just get a drain plug kit. I put them in every auto trans vehicle I have to service - it saves a lot of mess. You still have to take the pan down to change the filter, but at least there's only a little fluid left in the bottom instead of the Niagara Falls of ATF...

sdstriper

That Summit pan is the one I just switched to. The best aluminum pan deal IMO. I had the factory deep steel pan with the $12 drain plug kit, which is probably what I would go with again after realizing little to no imrovement in temps, looks cool though and does hold a little more fluid.

Thanks to those that replied again with the temp sensor location. This is the most common misconception from what I read. Pressure out or hot out line is the only way to get a correct reading.

bigragu

Later on, if funds allow or if an inlaw or family member asks"What would you like for Christmas?" get a single deep pan from Mag Hytec. They are a better pan all the way through, and you'll love doing the fluid changes.

KRB

Pulling a hill with a 6,000# boat or 10,000# of hay or beef I can pretty easily climb to 225* and will spike to 250-255* if not carefull. I don't think I'm turning my OD off soon enough. Probably should start at the bottom of the hill and not wait until temps climb. Thats tough to do sometimes, turning the cargo light on doesn't seem to affect the OD . I plan to move the button to the shift lever ASAP. From what I have read, 225-250* is when you start affecting the fluid and its toast after that.

Never thought about adding a drain plug to my stock pan, which is what I guess I'll stick with now since the extra fluid ain't necessarily a bonus and the sensor port isn't needed if you move it to the stock in-line sensor port.

Based on this discussion, here's the plan:
Stock pan w/drain plug
Temp sensor install in old OD spot (tie up the old sensor)
Derale cooler w/fan
Cab switch for fan
LED indicator lights in gauge pod wired to OD and fan

BTW, I did ask Santy for a deep pan but I guess I was naughty last year .

I guess the best route to plumb in a cooler is the stock way? Anybody have problems over cooling the fluid with aftermarket coolers?

And if the dip stick sensor reads 250*, what do you reckon the hot line temp is?????

sdstriper

Too hot. The sensor is in the oil that returned from the coolers.

Boatnik

I have pictures of where I installed the gauge probe in my gallery, but am too stupid to figure out how to stick the pictures in a thread. I,m not near my FSM right now but I remember 280 degrees F is when the OD is cut out.

KRB

Which one did you get? 15800?

What does the measurement -8AN stand for?

Ace

Anything you do to increase fluid capacity, whether it is bigger pans or extra coolers and their associated plumbing is going to be beneficial to the transmission in the long run. The more fluid in the sump the longer it will last between changes under any conditions, be they excessive heat, severe service, whatever.

I believe that thinking you are saving money by using fewer quarts at drain time is what we call a "false economy." If you are changing the fluid at a reasonable interval, it probably doesn't really matter in the short run. But an extra quart or two of fluid will go a long ways towards extending the overall life of the unit when heat, hard work and small leaks all combine to stress that tranny. How many here would claim they can pefectly gauge their drain interval requirement with their specific operating conditions? Or are doing consistent UOAs on the trans fluid? Ask that question to 10 different people and likely you'll get close to that many different answers.

Just ask yourself if you'd rather save a few bucks every couple years on the fluid, or be spending thousands for a rebuild a couple years sooner. Cheap insurance?

Just my $.02

sdstriper

Thats terminology used for hose and fitting sizes known as Dash numbers.

I recently read a good tip for calculating dash number sizes, dash numbers based on 1/16 so -8 would be a 1/2 inch.