In the case of the D70, you probably will have to pull the carrier (or at least remove both main bearing caps) because the cross pin is held in place with a roll pin, not a bolt... and trying to hammer that roll pin out with the carrier still in the truck will be difficult, if not impossible. Were it something like a Ford 8.8 where the cross pin is held in place with a threaded bolt-style pin, the spiders could be done with the carrier still in the truck.

But regardless, you don't need a housing spreader. You can pry the carrier out with a pry bar, block of wood, or a strap around it.

Replacing the spiders is pretty simple. Just pull the axle shafts out far enough that they are out of the carrier, remove the diff cover, remove the carrier main caps (Make sure you mark them so you know which direction and what side they go back in), then pry the carrier out (make sure the transmission or transfer case is in neutral, because the pinion needs to be able to rotate in order for the carrier to be removed). Once you have the carrier out, use a long thin punch to drive out the roll pin that holds the cross pin in place (You actually don't need to drive it all the way out, just far enough do that the cross pin can slide out). Once you get the roll pin out of the way, the cross pin will push out, and you can remove the old spiders.

Spin the new spiders (and the metal shims that go behind them) into place, slide the cross pin back in, drive the roll pin back into place, and re-install the carrier and caps (The carrier cap bolts get torqued to 80 ft-lbs)

Then just put the cover and axle shafts back in place (with new gaskets or goop), fill the thing with gear oil, and you're good to go.

The entire process can be done in under an hour if you've done it before, but plan on 2 or 3 if it's your first time.

Bottom line, it's a whole lot easier and cheaper than trying to find a whole new rear axle if all that's broken are the spider gears.


-Hans

 

Hey Jesse,

Clarify whether or not you have a power lock rear diff or an open diff, as the information that's being provided to you is worthless without knowing what center section you have. You're getting advice from all over the place, and some of it may not be applicable to what you're actually dealing with.

If you don't know what you have, take a picture of the R&G in the rear axle and post it.

 

I will as soon as I get home, maybe on lunch. Thanks for all the help up to this point anyway, youo all have been extremely insightful.
-Jesse

 

I was able to do a rear end rebuild without a spreader, but like already said you will probly need a dead blow or a heavy rubber hammer.


LS vrs open




just some fluff pics.

 

Mine looks like the one on the left. That's the powerlock, correct?

-Jesse

 

yes sir...that's a limited slip.

 

That being said, will the ease of removal and repair described earlier still apply? Or is there a new set of instructions I can follow?

-Jesse

 

My fault, I didn't think to ask if you had an open diff or limited slip. When you said you could see that the spiders were screwed up, I just assumed that it was an open carrier.

That whole power-lok unit comes apart using the bolts on the end of the carrier (opposite the ring gear). You'll need to remove those bolts and separate the pieces of the carrier to replace the spiders, so the carrier will definitely need to come out of the truck.

It uses a 4-post style "double" cross pin, and there are some clutches/plates/etc. that need to be arranged properly when you re-assemble the unit. It's a little more complicated, but the overall process is similar.

Your best bet is to order a rebuild kit, which will come with new clutches/plates/spiders/etc.

You'll have to figure out what 70 housing is in your truck, and what spline the axle shafts are. More than likely, it's either a model 70U with 32 spline shafts, or a model 70HD with 35 spline shafts. There will be a number cast into the webbing near the diff cover, followed by something like "70 B", "70 U", or "70 HD". That casting code will determine what rebuild kit you need to order. (I have no idea why they felt the need to offer so many different variations of the D70... but they did, and unfortunately, many parts are not easily interchangable between them).


Example of the rebuild kit:




Example of the ID casting on the housing:




-Hans

 

You can review the thread I posted earlier to get a feel for it. IT doesn't tell you all the nuances, but gives you the overall feel on how to do it. The orientation of the housing for the spiders is critical, so make sure you mark it as it comes out and assembled exactly as it was after you get the new spider kit in there. Torque specs and assembly instructions are provided in the spider kit from DTS. You will need the number / letter information from the ring gear to get the right parts. Read my thread, as I think it talks about it. Those Alphanumeric casting numbers are what the supply house will need to get you a new spider kit.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d-t306502.html

You really SHOULD purchase a FSM from one of the local houses. Computer one is easiest, IMO, as the grease doesn't stick to the keyboard very well.

http://www.genosgarage.com/Dodge-Fac.../products/241/

I bought the CD and it's saved me numerous times. It will save you as well

 

Fantastic, that rebuild kit is about 4 times as much$ as the open dif one. ****!

-Jesse

 

I have one already, a service manual I mean, it's great! Still not so great with diagrams and scratch n sniffs...

-Jesse