Cummins rear main seal leaking

Well I got the Ramcharger on the road with the Cummins installed. I've been driving it for about a week and enjoying the crap out of it. I get allot of looks from people. But now the rear main seal is leaking like a sieve. I've been told that a plugged draft tube will cause crankcase pressure and will cause a rear main seal to leak. I did crush the draft tube during the install but I thought I had fixed it. Has anyone heard of this causing the leak?

If so will the rear main continue to leak after the tube is replaced?

I know that the seal is easy to replace AFTER the transmission is removed but I'm just not feeling like pulling it out yet unless I have to. The bruises that I got laying in my rock driveway are not even gone yet.
It lost over a gallon of oil in about 200 miles of driving. About 25% of that was in heavy traffic at idle speeds.

 

when the rear seal went in mine it was instantanious,from nothing to probably as much as you lost.

 

Pull your oil fill cap.


IF the excess crank pressure is pushing it by the rear seal the open cap will vent excess pressure.

If it still leaks... assume the seal needs taken care of.

As for the crushed tube... was it crushed right by the tappet cover? I THINK (as in I dont know for 100%) the tube just goes through the tappet cover. and ends directly inside. If its not collapsed on the outside of the cover, you should be golden.

 

I was shocked at the amount of oil I lost. When the Cummins was in the D250 it had no leaks. I pull it and put in the Ramcharger and in less than 200 miles it's pouring. I would have expected a small leak that gradually gets worse. It seems that instantanious gusher isn't out of the question.

Oh well, back to wrenching.

 

I checked it. There's no excess pressure and I had kinked the tube half way down. I stuck a wire hanger up the tube and it is clear. Time to pull the transmission.

 

Take pictures and document the actual seal replacement process

 

like this

pull the 6 bolts on the block and the 4 in the pand and remove the plate that the seal is in and then put in on the table and knock the old seal out and replace it. Place a small film of sealent around the maiting surfaceis and then two small blobs in the corners where the pan and block meet. Reinstall and snug up all bolts.

 

ask and yee shall recieve . nice job on the photo end explanation.

 

In the picture, the seal/plate you are meaning is still on the engine, right ??

I assume the eight bolts I see are the fly-wheel bolts, right ??

This picture is after the engine adapter is removed, right ??

Do you have any pictures of the seal/plate off the engine ??

Thanks.

 

[QUOTE=BearKiller;1849816]In the picture, the seal/plate you are meaning is still on the engine, right ??

Yes

I assume the eight bolts I see are the fly-wheel bolts, right ??

Yes

This picture is after the engine adapter is removed, right ??

Yes

Do you have any pictures of the seal/plate off the engine ??

No

 

Have you ever noticed that when you CHOOSE to do something to your truck it is always more enjoyable than when you MUST do something to your truck.
Oh well, I should just make it a project and rebuild the G360 while I'm at it. It's about due. I'm also going to change the placing of the spacers on the transmission crossmember in order to lift the back of the transmission about an inch. That will give me a little more clearance between the rear valve cover and the firewall since it will rock the engine forward some. Right now there's only about 3/8 of an inch and lifting the rear of the transmission an inch should give me about 3/4 inch between the valve cover and the firewall.

O.K. Now it's a project instead of a repair. I feel better.

CJ

 

I had to replace the head gasket because the t-stat stuck closed and blew it out just below the t-stat housing. got it all back together and 1 week later the turbo let go and I had to pull it all back apart buy another head gasket and clean the aluminium off the valves and out of the IC and build a new turbo. I know how you feel. It was more fun the 1st time because I fixed a few things that needed some attention and cleaned it all up and made it look nice and installed a 4K gsk and 60lbs valve springs so it was a little more about upgrades not just fixing like the next time.

 

Yep, go through all the trouble to be nice to it and treat it good, replace seals fix leaks and then BOOOM! Aluminum in the intercooler..........and motor. The next 4bt we do, we'll make sure to document the "sealing" process.