NE frmhnd

I put slotted/cross drilled rotors on a Plymouth Breeze once. The papers with the pads said to run DOT 4 fluid. Found out the hard (and almost expensive) way why they said that.

Is the rotor and the hub one piece? Or do they come apart? I have one that's warped a bit.

cougar

Rotors are held on by the wheel studs that are pressed into the hub. Drive them out with a hammer and pull them back in with a lug nut.

Dieselbuilder

I have used the slotted and dimpled rotors and panic stops will put you into the window they work very well and have had excellent ware out of them!!!

deanhinsley1963

I have a set of dimpled and slotted rotors from brakeperformance on mine for about 11/2 yrs now with great results.

Mike337

I bought a set of their premium slotted and dimpled rotors with the pad upgrade, I'm still waiting to put them on. The guy there was seemed pretty honest, said not to get the drilled as it weakens the rotor. Said it wasn't a big deal on cars but he would stay away from it on trucks, so I got the dimpled.

NE frmhnd

If anything with the pads/rotors says to run DOT 4 brake fluid, don't take it for a spin until you've got the new fluid in the system. I put crossdrilled rotors on a car once and drove it through town the next day on the way home from work, and ended up having to throw it into neutral and using the park brake to get it stopped. The DOT3 fluid was boiling.

NJTman

Scot,

Brake rotors being put on your car should have nothing to do with brake fluid boiling. There was something more going on there, as if your system was working properly, it wouldn't have made any difference if you had crossdrilled, dimpled, solid discs, or worn out OE rotors on your vehicle. Boiling brake fluid is caused by a malfunction of the system, such as internally blocked brake hoses, or stuck caliper pistons where the rotors aren't being released while driving..


BTW,

I chickened out on the rotors......

I have a buddy who works at a napa store, and I got new rotors from there for $50 each. After reading all the conflicting stories I didn't think that the extra expense was worth all the trouble.

I lucked out.....as the rotors were sitting in their warehouse for a decade or more, and I didn't get the chinese crap produced today... but real American made rotors.. How sweet is that...




New hoses, Napa (Eclipse) calipers , Brembo pads, balkkamp studs, and my truck stops better than ever.. Unbelievable compared to the fading brakes I had before.

Mike337

No chickening out to it, you got a great deal and it worked for you. Nice job btw.

NJTman

Thanks

I finally got to use that 20 ton press I bought on CL for $100. Things been sitting outside for nearly a year without any use. I swear I heard it sigh when I pressed the new studs in....

thrashingcows

I put a set of drilled and slotted rotors on the wifes 02 Chrysler a few years ago...car stops great with great pad wear. I also just put a set on my old 68 chrysler T/C wagon...the original rotors had warpped badly from driving through the hills one day. Can not complain a bit about the breaking. I will get a set for the crewcab too when the time comes.

jimbo486

I didn't know Brembo made pads (or anything for that matter) for our ol' trucks. Did you also get those through Napa? What is their friction material made of?

I'd like to have stainless braided lines built for my '90. I've heard simply replacing the rubber lines that could potentially swell (or certainly swell after many miles/years after the rubber becomes weak) can improve braking performance considerably. Even with OEM rotors, calipers and pads.

NJTman

Brembo makes pads for our trucks

BMD149

I bought all the pad sets that Rockauto had, as they were "clearance".

.


I have stainless braided lines on my Yota pickup. Nice firm pedal, as it doesn't allow expansion under pressure, from what I've read.

NE frmhnd

New pads with the rotors. The rotors warped as bad as the OEM junk, just as quick, but the pads lasted for a while.

NJTman

Replace the calipers and brake hoses and you will eliminate your issue, regardless of what type of rotor you run.

20 year old brake hoses fail on the inside, as they internally can constrict or pinch off flow to the caliper. The calipers go bad as well, as most of us fail to flush our brake fluid at least once a year, causing the seals to harden and prevent full retraction of the piston in the cup when releasing the brake pedal. Constant contact with pressure between the rotor and pads generate enormous amounts of heat, which ruins seals, and braking components.

An improperly adjusted rear set of brakes also can cause the overworking of the front brakes as well.

Rotors don't warp unless there is something else going on.

NE frmhnd

Go back to the original here. Notice I highlighted something:

The pads I put on the car (it was only 4 years old at the time) with the rotors said to run DOT4 fluid.

96 Plymouth Breeze.

That car ate brakes. When my parents got it, it needed brakes, with less than 30K on it. My dad's run 3 others over the years, and regardless of what he says about the brakes being fine, the rotors will be warped to s*** and back before the pads wear out most of the time.

Dad's on his 4th counting the one they gave me. Three have eaten brakes.

The rear adjusters are junk on them as well. I put a set of shoes on the rear of one and after a half hour with a screwdriver, wire brushes, and a ton of WD-40, still couldn't hardly get them to pull up somewhat tight when re-installing.