thrashingcows

So I had some time today to swap out the PS pump....well at least that was what I was going to start with since I still had a spare Vacuum pump/PS set-up. It was actually the original set-up from my 93 motor, but I had converted my 89 motor to the IC style set-up and rebuilt the Vacuum pump, so that was what I swapped onto the 93 before it went in the crewcab. The original set-up from the 93 still had a painted date code of Oct 20/1992 on the PS pump!

I swapped it on, "T" the return line and then primed the system. Fire it up and all seems well. Took it for a good drive and no issues. The temperature of the PS lines was significantly less as well.

So a little info about priming the system after a PS pump, PS box or hydroboost change. Over the last couple days I have been doing some reading and research about priming the PS system properly. I'm pretty sure I am the reason the PS pump failed.

Here's What I did,
- fill the reservoir, then remove the power to the FSS and crank the motor for about 10-15 sec, then check the fluid again.
- Then I fired it up for about 10-15 seconds, shut it off and check fluid again.
- Then fired it up again and this time turned lock to lock with wheels off the ground. Took quite a while to finally get hyd pressure through the system.

It was during this air lock situation that I think the pump burned up the seals.

Now after my research I came across a few references to this procedure.

-fill the reservoir with fresh fluid. DO NOT START THE MOTOR! Then with wheels off the ground "slowly" crank the wheels lock to lock (LH and RH). Then check fluid level.
-Continue lock to lock slowly, checking the fluid after each cycle. I did this 10 times (LH to RH and back).
-Then I unhooked the FSS and cranked the motor for about 10-15 sec. Checked the fluid level.
-Did another 5 lock to lock cycles, checking fluid level.
-Crank motor again (FSS unhooked) for another 10-15 sec.
-Then another 5 lock to lock cycles.
-Fired motor up and cranked lock to lock 5 times, checking fluid.
-Dropped wheels back on the ground and everything was smooth as silk.

So far so good, so Will give it a week or so before purchasing a new PS pump for a 2nd Gen with hydroboost.

mknittle

Glad it is working again.

thrashingcows

Did a few things on the crewcab today.

I swapped out the vacuum/PS pump assembly...again. I tossed in the old leaking set-up from my donor 93 when the 2nd Gen PS pump cooked after 4 days powering the hydroboost set-up. This PS pump did not work all that well when it was just power the steering box...turned out that the internal filter was virtually plugged solid!

I took the big nut off the back of the PS pump...where the high pressure line threads into...and pulled out the spring and check valve/screen assembly. Cleaned it really well and re-installed.

Here's what it looks like apart...



You need to clamp the outer housing in something...without damaging the outer bore since it is a piston. Then spin out the center filter....make sure you measure the overall size and re-install at the same measurement. I believe you can alter the hyd pressure by either turning it in/out? Also don't forget to red lock tight the screen in place.

thrashingcows

I also installed a passenger side grab handle....complete write up here.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...8/#post3292375

I also swapped out the dino gear oil in the rear diff for synthetic. The stuff I drained out was all frothy/foamy...never seen that before? This is the fluid the guy who did my diff work put in....so not sure why it was like this?

thrashingcows

Installed the 4" Beckson (# DP40-B) Smooth Screw-Out Marine Deck Plate in my HVAC box today....as per the thread in the Sticky....

thrashingcows

Well the oil I drained from my rear diff is still foamy today...even after sitting in the heated garage all night, and today. Here's what it looks like.....any idea why it would stay all foamy like that?

bigragu

Hey, TC, how about a pic of that access door off on the Beckson 4", so I can see the relation of where the door is and the evap coil. Is that ok to do for me? I've always wanted to do this simple, but awesome mod, but could never locate where to purchase these? Are these sealed with an "O" ring upon thread on? Keep up the good work!

gyman98

I would think one or both of two things.

1- overfill of reservoir

2. Contaminated with grease which removes the defoamer of gear oil. Wheel bearings were packed or recent rear diff service?

thrashingcows

I think you might be correct with the grease? But I'm pretty sure I had stopped using it before the last diff work....warranty on the pinion seal. I did service the rear brakes, but don't use grease anymore on the bearings.

So either the diff guy just re-used the oil that he drained out, doubt it he's too OCD for that, or the oil residue had settled in the tubes, or bottom of the case and is affecting the oil after the fact.

Regardless., great info Ashley, Thanks!

thrashingcows

Didn't snap a pic after I cut the hole. I just used the pics in the sticky thread to get mine close.

Got my unit off E-bay for about 15 bucks. Sometimes it's not worth driving around town searching for these parts.

bigragu

Yeah, found them on Amazon. Ordered the black outline with clear center today. Right on, Man, thanks for doing yours which spurred me to get mine done!

mknittle

I bet you find a couple oak leaves in there. Mine was completely full.

bigragu

Mark, good to see you on here and Merry Xmas to my home town boy!
I actually put a 3", 16 ga. round plate on mine years ago when I cleaned mine out. At that time it was full. The plate is held on with 2 screws, so needless to say I hardly look in there to check.
At the time I did it I strategically oriented the plate knowing once I got that Beckson Doo Hickey one day all it would take would be to enlarge the opening and the trim ring would not land outside of the black plenum.
Glad NJT had a pic of his installed, clear one, so in the future it's just a quick lookie to see if I even need to open it.
Glad Thrashing discussed his install to finally get me to order one!

mknittle

Merry Christmas to you and your family too.

thrashingcows

Over the last 3 days I have been working on getting my step bars installed on the crewcab. I bought these a couple years ago...they were damaged and I got them super cheap...I think $175 shipped to my door....regularly around here close to $600! They are made by "Go Rhino" and were for a 3rd Gen Dodge crewcab I believe.




But the way the doors and body is built I had to use them on the opposite sides...Pass for Drivers, and visa versa.