Crewcab update...
#871
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Location: Land of the Toxic Avenger
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U bolts stretch to maintain clamping force. Once removed they won't restretch, and if forced to, they sometimes snap. Not good if that happens
#874
I have reused them in the past (younger,more ignorant years) but it's definitely not a good idea.
Love what youve done with the truck! You seem to take what seems to me like a big project and just whip it out in a few hours or a day.
Nice truck
Love what youve done with the truck! You seem to take what seems to me like a big project and just whip it out in a few hours or a day.
Nice truck
#875
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Thread Starter
I do spend days working out as many of the logistics to these projects before hand that I can. I even run the whole expected scenarios through my head....I'm a commercial truck driver so I tend to have a few spare hours to think on my hands.
#876
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Well today I decided to see where my "bang/Clunk" was coming from in the front end. I was pretty sure it was the steering box, but had my neighbour crank the wheels back and forth while I watched and listened.
Sure enough the box torqued in one direction, then when direction and torque was applied in the opposite direction I got a bang. And you could see that the steering box had a lot of movement.
Pulled the battery, and IC tube on the DS and lifted up the splash guard. Found one bolt half out and loose. One other was just starting to loosen up. So I removed the two I could remove, cleaned them up and blue loctited them in place. The other two I backed out as for as I could, more blue loctite, and then tightened back up.
Cycled the steering again once everything was back together and all seems well.
Sure enough the box torqued in one direction, then when direction and torque was applied in the opposite direction I got a bang. And you could see that the steering box had a lot of movement.
Pulled the battery, and IC tube on the DS and lifted up the splash guard. Found one bolt half out and loose. One other was just starting to loosen up. So I removed the two I could remove, cleaned them up and blue loctited them in place. The other two I backed out as for as I could, more blue loctite, and then tightened back up.
Cycled the steering again once everything was back together and all seems well.
#878
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Thread Starter
Again thanks for the heads up, did not know that. I will have to pull all the steering brackets, to get all those bolts replaced on the steering box. Guess I need to set aside another full day to address this now....always something.
#880
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Location: granite falls washington
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1993 book FSM page 19-33
says tight to 130lbs
It does not say replace or reuse.
I just don"t like reusing bolts that have been stretched. Im not saying you must replace. I just dont have good luck reusing. Only Very Bad.
says tight to 130lbs
It does not say replace or reuse.
I just don"t like reusing bolts that have been stretched. Im not saying you must replace. I just dont have good luck reusing. Only Very Bad.
#881
Registered User
Thread Starter
I think I'm going to remove the steering bracket and install new solid flange head bolts instead of the captured washer ones that are originally used. One less thing that could possibly crack, break or cause flex in this already delicate system.
#882
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Thread Starter
Well i redid the rear brake hubs a few weeks ago, new bearings and seals, but yesterday on my first day off in about a week I noticed that there was gear oil on the ground by the passenger side rear tire....Doooh!
So today I tore into it to see how bad it was....
All that oil everywhere...that can't be good.
So today I tore into it to see how bad it was....
All that oil everywhere...that can't be good.
#883
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Thread Starter
Turns out I nicked the inner seal on the threads when installing it. Gouged the seal and popped the spring loose as well.
And with all that oil everywhere the rear shoes were toast!
So off to the parts store for some new Wagner riveted 12x3 shoes, and SKF inner seals....Did not want to use the raybestos bonded units.
And with all that oil everywhere the rear shoes were toast!
So off to the parts store for some new Wagner riveted 12x3 shoes, and SKF inner seals....Did not want to use the raybestos bonded units.
#884
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Thread Starter
Lots of cleaning to get that gear oil off everything. But finally got everything clean up and start re-assembly. This time I used some black electrical tape over the threads to smooth things out just in case I get weak and wobbly trying to lift that drum and hub into place.
So it turned into an expensive day. Amazing what a small nick in a seal can end up costing you....a big chunk of change, and half a day.
So it turned into an expensive day. Amazing what a small nick in a seal can end up costing you....a big chunk of change, and half a day.
#885
Registered User
TC, now try hefting the drum/hub with a dually adapter bolted to it!
I just replaced my steering box yesterday. My FSM gave a torque spec of only 100ft lbs for the steering gear bolts. Maybe since it's a 2wd? I'm sure it's noted but I probably skimmed over a 4wd spec since mine is 2wd. Mine also doesn't suggest replacing the bolts. Maybe I'll buy some good, Grade 8 flanged bolts in the future and Loc-Tite them as well, just as TC did his.
And this steering box brace, will one fit on a 2wd? I think the 4 and 2wd truck steering gears share the same 4-bolt pattern, no?
And this steering box brace, will one fit on a 2wd? I think the 4 and 2wd truck steering gears share the same 4-bolt pattern, no?