69HemiGTX

For years I've been saying that the Chinese are trying to kill everyone else in the World so they can take it over without firing a shot. Lead paint on toys, fake food, diseased animals, impostor grade 8 bolts, inadequate high pressure o-rings... The list goes on. Think of what would happen if that wire saw some real amperage. Can you say fire?

thrashingcows

Weathers been rainy and cooling down here the last week or so. So I figured it was time to install my heater hoses again. But this time I had my new manual shut off valves, and a new vacuum coolant shut off valve as well.

I searched high and low for the "right" manual shut off valves I wanted to use. Many hours were spent searching all over the internet until I happened across these babies!

4 Seasons 84706. Used on early 70's dodge pick up trucks.



And the vacuum operated shut off valve was not available for our trucks...at least with a 5/8 x 5/8 hose connections. Maybe I just couldn't find it, but I searched high and low and never could find a direct OEM style replacement.

I found many that would "work" but looked hideous, IMO, but eventually found one I liked.

4 Seasons 74859. Used mainly on Ford Rangers from 2003 to 2008.



Now here it is all installed...





Now next summer I can just turn off the valves and no heat, or coolant will enter the heater core to affect my AC temps.

thrashingcows

Changed out the two air temp sensor in the intake. The one for the grid heaters, the small more forward one, can be had through the aftermarket. BWD WT3032 will get you the right one.

The other one, it controls the on/off for the KSB. I could not find an aftermarket replacement. So I had to find a NOS one. The OEM number on this one is...3921642

Here they are installed....

thrashingcows

I'm not sure what's going on, but my KSB, with the M&H timing spacer is giving my engine way too much timing. I loose all low end power when the KSB is activated. It was on all the time with the old sensor, that is why I had to replace it. It is supposed to shut off when the air temperature charge reaches 90*F.

But even after replacing the sensor yesterday, I went to work this morning and it did not seem to shut off. I eventually had to pull over and remove the electrical connection from the KSB. Then the motor went back to running great.

Never had these issues before when running the KSB with "NO" timing spacer, so I suspect that the system is not designed to run with the KSB hooked up?

Or maybe my air intake charge, with my PS IC, is just cooling things too much and the air intake charge is not getting warm enough to switch off the power through the sensor and then turn off the KSB?

mknittle

Isn't there two KSB switches? the early one works the opposite of the later one. maybe the timing kit was designed for the other switch.

oliver foster

The NON I/C'ed and Intercooled 12V KSB set up is totally different…But I don't think that is the problem as it work well before the timing spacer...

I can't see you PS intercooler cooling the air TOO much and making the sensor not read a temp., high enough to turn the KSB off.

Maybe test the sensor and see if it works?

Maybe a call to M and H would help?

mknittle

I thought he changed the sensor and installed the timing spacer at the same time.

oliver foster

I picked this sentence out of Thrashingcows post.

Never had these issues before when running the KSB with "NO" timing spacer, so I suspect that the system is not designed to run with the KSB hooked up?

j_martin

Toughest thing to understand for some reason:

If you walk up to a running machine.....
And you do something to it.....
And it now does not run.....
.
.
.It's what you did.

Wrong temp switch would be my guess.

thrashingcows

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

When I bought the donor truck it seemed to run just fine. But I only put on a couple hundred miles before the disassembly started, so I can't be sure the KSB worked properly before that.

I then pulled the IP for a re-seal, and figured since I had it apart for the re-seal this was the perfect time to install the timing spacer. I got the IP back together and installed it in the truck, and fired it up, but never drove it.

It wasn't until I finished the 4wd conversion, and converting to the 93 systems, that I noticed the lack of bottom end power. I eventually figured out that the KSB was staying on, or being switched on at random times. I checked out the sensor and it appeared to be faulty.

I unplugged the KSB and the truck has been running great, with no issues. But I figured I may as well get a new switch. So I found a NOS switch, since I couldn't find one in the aftermarket.

With the weather starting to cool down, I figured I should get everything working, so that is why I just installed the new sensor.

Could the new sensor be faulty? Yup guess it could, but it was sealed in the original packaging which makes it unlikely that someone did a swap job and was trying to re-sell a faulty unit.

I will test the old, and new sensors with the heat gun and see if I can get the switch to trip. If the swicth works, then it either has to be to something in the wiring, the KSB, or the timing space does not work with the cold function on the KSB.

oliver foster

I think you are headed in the right direction, as even brand new stuff, sometimes is junk.
Testing the switch would be my first move too.

Good luck.

How many miles have you put on Patches since you got it back on the road?

mknittle

If you do several things at the same time It makes it a bit tougher to find some times.

thrashingcows

Coming up on 5K KM's So 3200 miles?

Only thing I added during the IP re-seal was the M&H spacer...rest is bone stock. So the problem is either the KSB, KSB air temp sensor, or spacer, or the combination of the one or more of these.

mknittle

I have a tendency to think sensor. But that is just a harry guess.

thrashingcows

Decided today to address the cab slipping from side to side on the cab mounts. Took me a while to figure out what was going on, but that was what was happening. Annoying as all heck, almost every corner, or big bump I took it would "clunk".

I thought I would be clever and grease everything up really well when I installed the new poly mounts. Well this was one of the reasons things went haywire.



I removed one side at a time, cleaned all the grease off in the parts washer, cleaned the body side with solvent and then finally re-installed. Then snugged up the bolts. Then I measured from side to side to make sure the cab was evenly spaced on the mounts.

One thing I did find was that once I had things in place, and I tightened up the nuts, that the nuts would bottom out on the shoulder on the factory bolts. I think this was the other reason the cab was moving around on the mounts. Not tight enough to hold things in place.

So I dug through my buckets of misc washers. Found some thick hardened washers from ??? But regardless I stacked two under each nut and it gave me enough addition thread to be able to torque them up to the factory 40-60ftlbs.

All done...right this time...