Crewcab update...
#646
Registered User
Thread Starter
So the first issue I had was with the fan lightly hitting my Fluidampr. I had shimmed out the clutch fan away from the hub by a good 1/4"...but one blade was still touching every so often.
The light "Ting ting ting" sound would come at higher RPM's...1800+. I eventually had to pull the fan and remove a bit of material from the one fan blade. Since then i have not had an issue.
The light "Ting ting ting" sound would come at higher RPM's...1800+. I eventually had to pull the fan and remove a bit of material from the one fan blade. Since then i have not had an issue.
#647
Registered User
Thread Starter
Next issue was the total lack of power the motor seemed to have. It would barely climb up a hill at 35 KM/H in 3rd gear. It was bad!! I thought I had some major issues.
I initially thought I had a 21cm2 exhaust housing, but I confirmed that it had a 18cm2 unit. OK so that was not my problem.
Next I thought maybe the OEM diaphragm lift pump was not supplying the motor with enough fuel. So I pulled the LP piston lift pump off my 89 motor and installed it on the 93. This did help a little....I was now up to 40-45 KM/h going up the same hill.
Then I noticed while cruising at a steady speed that once in a while the motor sound would change. I got thinking about it and thought that maybe the KSB was coming on while driving. I came to the DTR and did a ton of reading on KSB's.
I finally found a test procedure and tried that. Turned out the KSB was on all the time. My intake temp sensor is toast. And once I disconnected the wiring to the KSB the truck was like night and day.
I also need to mention that I had installed a M&H dynamic timing spacer when I resealed the IP. So with the KSB on all the time I was running probably 15-20* more timing.....Doooh!!
I initially thought I had a 21cm2 exhaust housing, but I confirmed that it had a 18cm2 unit. OK so that was not my problem.
Next I thought maybe the OEM diaphragm lift pump was not supplying the motor with enough fuel. So I pulled the LP piston lift pump off my 89 motor and installed it on the 93. This did help a little....I was now up to 40-45 KM/h going up the same hill.
Then I noticed while cruising at a steady speed that once in a while the motor sound would change. I got thinking about it and thought that maybe the KSB was coming on while driving. I came to the DTR and did a ton of reading on KSB's.
I finally found a test procedure and tried that. Turned out the KSB was on all the time. My intake temp sensor is toast. And once I disconnected the wiring to the KSB the truck was like night and day.
I also need to mention that I had installed a M&H dynamic timing spacer when I resealed the IP. So with the KSB on all the time I was running probably 15-20* more timing.....Doooh!!
#648
Registered User
Thread Starter
Then a week or so ago I started to get a really bad growl, shake when i got on the highway. Thought maybe the pinion bear was starting to go since it was worse under load/acceleration.
Did a quick check and found that the rear most weld on yoke had opened up and I had a fair amount of side to side play in the U-joint. I used a C-clamp to tighten things up, then installed a washer to take up the extra space. Also turned out that the slip yoke off the back side of the carrier bearing had one U-joint cup that was loose and spinning in the casting.
I had to get back and forth to work for a couple more days before I could get the drive shafts out and back to the shop that did them. So the washer was a temp fix, and I kept off the highway and stayed below 65 KM/H.
The driveline shop that RE/RE'd my original 2 pieces set-up had said everything was good. And they only replaced two of the wled on yokes the first time around. Well now the parts that they said were OK turned out to be shot.
I have had issue with this shop before. The owner will not stand behind his work. But the other shop I had been using got out of car/truck drivelines, and this shop was the only one relatively close by. So once again he weaseled out of proper customer service and I got stuck with another full bill to fix what they didn't do right the first time.
I have since found another shop. They don't advertise, so you have to know someone one who knows. So I will be going there next time.
Did a quick check and found that the rear most weld on yoke had opened up and I had a fair amount of side to side play in the U-joint. I used a C-clamp to tighten things up, then installed a washer to take up the extra space. Also turned out that the slip yoke off the back side of the carrier bearing had one U-joint cup that was loose and spinning in the casting.
I had to get back and forth to work for a couple more days before I could get the drive shafts out and back to the shop that did them. So the washer was a temp fix, and I kept off the highway and stayed below 65 KM/H.
The driveline shop that RE/RE'd my original 2 pieces set-up had said everything was good. And they only replaced two of the wled on yokes the first time around. Well now the parts that they said were OK turned out to be shot.
I have had issue with this shop before. The owner will not stand behind his work. But the other shop I had been using got out of car/truck drivelines, and this shop was the only one relatively close by. So once again he weaseled out of proper customer service and I got stuck with another full bill to fix what they didn't do right the first time.
I have since found another shop. They don't advertise, so you have to know someone one who knows. So I will be going there next time.
#649
Registered User
Thread Starter
The last issue I have right now is with the factory electronic cruise control system What my truck is doing is that when you set the cruise, it will sit at the set speed for a second or so...then start speeding up.
I have read every thread I could find here on the DTR, and other sites, that pertain to the factory cruise set up. I have also done every test that the FSM (factory service manual) says to do to test the system. Everything checks out. It should, in theory, be working perfectly.
I have come to the conclusion though that perhaps the "Vent" function is the culprit. Since the ECM is supposed to control the "venting" function on the servo to help maintain the speed, as well as increase, and slow down as need by road conditions.
So the other day I thought maybe if I limited the amount of vacuum to the servo it might help. I reduced the ID of the vacuum line down to about 1/16th of an inch and it still persisted in doing the same thing.
So now I need to figure out how the vent system works on the servo. And/or find a servo from a working truck/car and try it on the crewcab.
I have read every thread I could find here on the DTR, and other sites, that pertain to the factory cruise set up. I have also done every test that the FSM (factory service manual) says to do to test the system. Everything checks out. It should, in theory, be working perfectly.
I have come to the conclusion though that perhaps the "Vent" function is the culprit. Since the ECM is supposed to control the "venting" function on the servo to help maintain the speed, as well as increase, and slow down as need by road conditions.
So the other day I thought maybe if I limited the amount of vacuum to the servo it might help. I reduced the ID of the vacuum line down to about 1/16th of an inch and it still persisted in doing the same thing.
So now I need to figure out how the vent system works on the servo. And/or find a servo from a working truck/car and try it on the crewcab.
#651
Registered User
#652
Registered User
All in all not many problems for the amount of changes you made. Nice work!!
#653
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Posts: 6,789
Received 1,647 Likes
on
1,120 Posts
#655
Administrator
The last issue I have right now is with the factory electronic cruise control system What my truck is doing is that when you set the cruise, it will sit at the set speed for a second or so...then start speeding up.
I have read every thread I could find here on the DTR, and other sites, that pertain to the factory cruise set up. I have also done every test that the FSM (factory service manual) says to do to test the system. Everything checks out. It should, in theory, be working perfectly.
I have come to the conclusion though that perhaps the "Vent" function is the culprit. Since the ECM is supposed to control the "venting" function on the servo to help maintain the speed, as well as increase, and slow down as need by road conditions.
So the other day I thought maybe if I limited the amount of vacuum to the servo it might help. I reduced the ID of the vacuum line down to about 1/16th of an inch and it still persisted in doing the same thing.
So now I need to figure out how the vent system works on the servo. And/or find a servo from a working truck/car and try it on the crewcab.
I have read every thread I could find here on the DTR, and other sites, that pertain to the factory cruise set up. I have also done every test that the FSM (factory service manual) says to do to test the system. Everything checks out. It should, in theory, be working perfectly.
I have come to the conclusion though that perhaps the "Vent" function is the culprit. Since the ECM is supposed to control the "venting" function on the servo to help maintain the speed, as well as increase, and slow down as need by road conditions.
So the other day I thought maybe if I limited the amount of vacuum to the servo it might help. I reduced the ID of the vacuum line down to about 1/16th of an inch and it still persisted in doing the same thing.
So now I need to figure out how the vent system works on the servo. And/or find a servo from a working truck/car and try it on the crewcab.
Worked on mine.
#656
Registered User
Thread Starter
Don't know if the first gen is the same as the second, but when mine did it, after going crazy looking, I saw somewhere in the FSM where they said it was a learning issue, and to turn CC off, then on, set, get it at speed, and then off, repeat until speed holds.
Worked on mine.
Worked on mine.
#659
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks....the springs...well I don't think they ride any smoother then the old ones. Though I only put a couple hundred Km's on the old donor truck. I think the bounce is not as harsh...so you won't loose any fillings...but it still bounces fairly stiff.
#660
Registered User
Hi TC, My 92 W250 cruise does the same thing. I'll set it then all of a sudden it just starts to accelerate all on it's own. Haven't figured it out either. Figured I would try to get it right after converting her to the crew. Good luck I'll be paying attention to your R/D. Congrats again on getting her on the road