thrashingcows

Thanks for the advice...I had not planned on cranking on them, since as you stated...the loctite would crack loose. So a visual, and pry bar will have to suffice.

NJTman

Telltale sign of a loosened bolt is a halo of rust around it. Like MOPAR said, Don't weld them, otherwise you'll be sorry...

BTW, The full metal nuts he's referring to are called prevailing torque lock nuts. You can also use knurled flange nuts, but I think that the ones that MOPAR recommended work best, as that's what I used on my snow plow, and they've never loosened up.

Contact this company if you cannot find them. They can be retorqued without any locktite cracking issues, as you dont use any.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/home

We have these stores all over here, and they can get just about anything. THey have a different name for them, but they call them "TOP LOCK NUTS"

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...520Nuts%2522|~

MARF75

Those structural bolts that you referenced should be torqued to 325 ft lbs, hence the A325, its also probably on the head.

patdaly

Nope, the 325 references the specification.

For a 1/2" 325 bolt the torque spec for galv/waxed is 50-58 Lb/Ft and plain is 100-117. To keep in spec, you must torque to at least 70 percent to keep bolt preload.


Here is a good overall torque chart to use.

http://www.portlandbolt.com/technica...que-chart.html

To the OP, if you want to wait a day or so, McMaster-Carr is a wonderful source, and ships faster than anyplace I ever saw. We use them on a daily basis......... anyway, you can get just about anything, for instance, 1/2-20 grade 8 flange bolts.......

http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-head-fl...screws/=p7ce9v

mknittle

The biggest problem with Locktite is most people use way too much and it doesn't set up. T have taken mechanical assemblies apart 15 years after they were put together that still had wet spots in blind threaded holes.

Think about it this way, the worst will always happen when you are alone at night in the snow.

mknittle

Blue is "serviceable "and not too bad to remove.

Red is "permanent" and difficult too remove. It often needs to be heated with a torch to release.

Green is (unless there is something new) is sleeve and bearing retainer.

mknittle

What made me a believer was the environmental chambers we built 20 years ago. They do accelerated fatigue testing of asphalt. They stress samples in 2 axis while going from 150 degrees to minus freezing These machines run 24/7 for months on end. they vibrate and heat and freeze in rapid secession. We used no lock washers on internal bolts only Locktight blue. In that time repairing and re building I haven't seen a loose bolt that we installed.

m-o-p-a-r

I second McMastercarr! I use them at least once a week. Shipping is almost always next day. And just about everything they sell is very high Quality. I actually buy a lot of tooling for the machines through them. Its almost always USA made. I even buy some hard to find raw materials through them, simply because they have it, and I need it fast. (although raw materials are always overpriced. You pay for the speed)

And 325lb-ft is almost guaranteed to destroy most any 1/2" fastener LOL.

comotionman

no way would it be wise to use construction fasteners. the bolts your talking about are comparable to grade 5.

what you should use is grade 8 or 9.

mcmaster Carr has a large selection of fasteners. and prevailing torque lock nuts, also known as stover nuts--i think mcmaster Carr shows them as deformed thread lock nuts are the best lock nuts period--short of castle nuts with cotter pins. you won't need locktite.

thrashingcows

OK I finally caved under your guys pressure...

I called and cancelled my ASTM nuts and bolts, and have ordered the 1/2" x 20 Grade 8 flange head bolts and Stover lock nuts from the McMaster site...hope to have them by Wednesday at the latest.

I just was not feeling good about the Construction grade bolts.

mknittle

I think you will feel better about that choice. Enough about bolts from this nut.

thrashingcows

...Nice one!

mknittle

I have my moments

thrashingcows

I have had the clutch slave cylinder...what comes out of the tranny...hanging down under the truck for a couple weeks now. I noticed the other night a little fluid around the end. Thought at first it must be water...since it's been raining. Gave it the quick tongue test and it's brake fluid.

So I pulled the rod and grommet off and sure looks like it's leaking around the cylinder. Probably the front section of the bore that was not traveled on was a bit rusty...then removing the tranny allowed the piston to move up and over that rusty area....thus the leaking seal.

So can I reseal this myself? Or should I just get a new one? Also do I need one for a NV4500 or Getrag? And I can replace just the leaking slave cylinder assembly right? They do come loose from the line?

m-o-p-a-r

you can buy the slave separate, so I assume it can be replaced. I have heard they are a pain to bleed. I have to do this myself very soon. I already have the master. Going to order the save this week. If I get to it before you I will let you know how it goes.