Crewcab update...
#226
Registered User
You sure that brace is right? Mine is bolted from the power steering gearbox to the second cross member... or is that not installed yet?
Yes, I have to give a thumbs up to Roy at Quad4x4. After ordering my NP205 case from him, the services was unreal.
Yes, I have to give a thumbs up to Roy at Quad4x4. After ordering my NP205 case from him, the services was unreal.
#227
Registered User
Thread Starter
Been out of town working for a few days...so no work done on the truck, or components. I'm off for a few days now, so will be getting at things.
Would love to have the tranny back together, and the front cross members bolted in and the front diff under the truck by this weekend. See how things go.
#230
Registered User
Thread Starter
Been measuring, and measuring trying to get the front main cross member located properly. Man what a pain!!
I had to pull out the front cross member to drilled out all the holes to get 1/2" bolts in where the rivets would be. Then re-assembled.
And since the one hole was darn close I decided to use it. But I found I needed just a little more wiggle room on the center cross member. Turns out that it has a slight peek to it.
And once I leveled it out I also beveled the inside edge...since it buts up against the top radius where the frame rail is folded over.
I had to pull out the front cross member to drilled out all the holes to get 1/2" bolts in where the rivets would be. Then re-assembled.
And since the one hole was darn close I decided to use it. But I found I needed just a little more wiggle room on the center cross member. Turns out that it has a slight peek to it.
And once I leveled it out I also beveled the inside edge...since it buts up against the top radius where the frame rail is folded over.
#231
Registered User
Thread Starter
Once I massaged the cross member I was able to get my measurements to within 1/16" to 1/8"...I can live with that.
Then it was carefully drill out the remaining holes. Only had one go crooked on me...had to stop at 7/16" and rat file the rest of the way to 1/2".
The nuts and bolts I used are just random pieces from my buckets of misc. Will have to buy proper grade 8 nuts/bolts and washers. Cross members have to come back out so I can paint the frame and brackets again.
Now I have to finish getting the rear most spring bracket positioned and drilled out.
Then it was carefully drill out the remaining holes. Only had one go crooked on me...had to stop at 7/16" and rat file the rest of the way to 1/2".
The nuts and bolts I used are just random pieces from my buckets of misc. Will have to buy proper grade 8 nuts/bolts and washers. Cross members have to come back out so I can paint the frame and brackets again.
Now I have to finish getting the rear most spring bracket positioned and drilled out.
#232
Registered User
Thread Starter
Rear top spring and brackets are down getting new bushing installed. And due to the rust on my top springs, because of the void in the cast blocks between the top spring and the over load, I need to get solid pieces made up to replace the cast units.
The spring shop recommended this or I might end up with a broken top spring at the corrosion area. So I will take the old cast blocks down to my machinist and get him to make up a couple new pieces for me.
The spring shop recommended this or I might end up with a broken top spring at the corrosion area. So I will take the old cast blocks down to my machinist and get him to make up a couple new pieces for me.
#234
Registered User
The crossmembers look good. More work than it looks when you are done.
I'm not sure what your plans are for the permanent fasteners, but grade 8 fine threaded frame bolts with flanged self locking nuts are the way to go. I helped build a log forwarder out of a 5 ton 6x6 Army truck about 20 years ago, and we had to swap around a lot of frame hangers & brackets. We replaced the original 1/2 rivets with 1/2 bolts, and after much abuse, did not have any trouble with the bolts. Installed at 100 lb ft of torque with blue loctite as lubricant/sealant. You don't want washers or serrated heads, or anything that increases opportunities for creep or wear in the assembly. Fine threads give a slightly higher clamping force, and are less prone to loosening from vibration.
Did you think about doing a shackle flip, lowered front hanger & block delete for the rear springs, BTW?
I'm not sure what your plans are for the permanent fasteners, but grade 8 fine threaded frame bolts with flanged self locking nuts are the way to go. I helped build a log forwarder out of a 5 ton 6x6 Army truck about 20 years ago, and we had to swap around a lot of frame hangers & brackets. We replaced the original 1/2 rivets with 1/2 bolts, and after much abuse, did not have any trouble with the bolts. Installed at 100 lb ft of torque with blue loctite as lubricant/sealant. You don't want washers or serrated heads, or anything that increases opportunities for creep or wear in the assembly. Fine threads give a slightly higher clamping force, and are less prone to loosening from vibration.
Did you think about doing a shackle flip, lowered front hanger & block delete for the rear springs, BTW?
#235
Registered User
The crossmembers look good. More work than it looks when you are done.
I'm not sure what your plans are for the permanent fasteners, but grade 8 fine threaded frame bolts with flanged self locking nuts are the way to go. I helped build a log forwarder out of a 5 ton 6x6 Army truck about 20 years ago, and we had to swap around a lot of frame hangers & brackets. We replaced the original 1/2 rivets with 1/2 bolts, and after much abuse, did not have any trouble with the bolts. Installed at 100 lb ft of torque with blue loctite as lubricant/sealant. You don't want washers or serrated heads, or anything that increases opportunities for creep or wear in the assembly. Fine threads give a slightly higher clamping force, and are less prone to loosening from vibration.
Did you think about doing a shackle flip, lowered front hanger & block delete for the rear springs, BTW?
I'm not sure what your plans are for the permanent fasteners, but grade 8 fine threaded frame bolts with flanged self locking nuts are the way to go. I helped build a log forwarder out of a 5 ton 6x6 Army truck about 20 years ago, and we had to swap around a lot of frame hangers & brackets. We replaced the original 1/2 rivets with 1/2 bolts, and after much abuse, did not have any trouble with the bolts. Installed at 100 lb ft of torque with blue loctite as lubricant/sealant. You don't want washers or serrated heads, or anything that increases opportunities for creep or wear in the assembly. Fine threads give a slightly higher clamping force, and are less prone to loosening from vibration.
Did you think about doing a shackle flip, lowered front hanger & block delete for the rear springs, BTW?
#236
Registered User
Mine were in a little better shape but I made new ones from parts cut from a out of a 5/16" thick log truck reach.
#237
Registered User
Looking really good!
#238
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Posts: 6,789
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Looks Great TC ! Love the idea that you're up there in the great white north, and I get to watch your build as it progresses....
Thanks for keeping us in the loop.
Thanks for keeping us in the loop.