Crank walk and thrust bearings
#1
Crank walk and thrust bearings
Well as you know if you have read my previous posts my truck apparently has a case of chronic flexplate failure. Some have suggested that tha crank may be walking due to a thrust bearing falling out... Well if this is the case and they wont fix it under warranty or buy it back, what am i looking at?? Would this damage any major components in the design of the cummins bottom end??? If not, putting in a whole fresh set of bearings isnt at all out of my realm. I have been working with gassers for ages and obviously a rotating assembly is a rotating assembly. It looks as if it will be heck getting the oil pan off though. Has anyone done this in truck? or is engine removal a must? I bought a diesel for longevity. At this rate i should have kept the old 1500 chevy with the 5.7 which i know from experience i wouldnt have to worry about till atleast 300k, i have taken 2 of them there.
wayne
wayne
#2
Registered User
It's not as common on auto-equipped trucks for the thrust bearing to break off, but I imagine it's possible. Usually if that's the case, you can gently pry the crank almost 1/8'', and the offending bearing piece can usually be grabbed with a magnet through the drain hole in the pan to confirm things. I think 'Monty' did his with the engine in...still gotta yank the mounts and huff the engine wayy up in the air...having said that, have you upgraded to the 94+ flexplate yet?
#3
well they still dont have it diagnosed yet! its been there a week!! Apparently the diesel guy is on VACATION!!! Sounds like my doctor.... if you need him hes on vacation! I am just really down at this point!
wayne
wayne
#5
Registered User
There will be some play, especially if the engine has not been run in a while and all the oil has settled out. My truck does not have that much play, it's just a # I read somewhere along the way. Hopefully someone with a little more direct experience will chime in before too long.
#7
Administrator
When I found that mine had fallen down into the oil pan, I had 1/4" of end play in the crank. I paid around 120 bucks for a a full set of rod and main bearings, oil pan gasket and pickup tube gasket. Luckily only the clutch side thrust had broke and fallen out leaving me with no damage to the throws on the crank or the block. Mine is a 2wd so it was a real pain to get the oil pan off.
I had to yank the trans., and jack the engine up almost to where the crank dampner was eye level with the top of the grill just to get the oil pan to clear the bell housing and cross member. Its not fun, definately the hardest part is the oil pan. I think all in all it took about 8-10 hours to do the job.
I had to yank the trans., and jack the engine up almost to where the crank dampner was eye level with the top of the grill just to get the oil pan to clear the bell housing and cross member. Its not fun, definately the hardest part is the oil pan. I think all in all it took about 8-10 hours to do the job.
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#8
Registered User
Originally Posted by Monty
When I found that mine had fallen down into the oil pan, I had 1/4" of end play in the crank. I paid around 120 bucks for a a full set of rod and main bearings, oil pan gasket and pickup tube gasket. Luckily only the clutch side thrust had broke and fallen out leaving me with no damage to the throws on the crank or the block. Mine is a 2wd so it was a real pain to get the oil pan off.
I had to yank the trans., and jack the engine up almost to where the crank dampner was eye level with the top of the grill just to get the oil pan to clear the bell housing and cross member. Its not fun, definately the hardest part is the oil pan. I think all in all it took about 8-10 hours to do the job.
I had to yank the trans., and jack the engine up almost to where the crank dampner was eye level with the top of the grill just to get the oil pan to clear the bell housing and cross member. Its not fun, definately the hardest part is the oil pan. I think all in all it took about 8-10 hours to do the job.
#9
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Originally Posted by edwinsmith
GEEEZ! How much harder would it have to just pull the engine all the way out then?
Thats what I did, found I had 1/4" end play approximately and after looking at it decided it would just be easier to pull the engine all the way out and put it on the engine stand and turn the engine upside down. Since you have to lift the engine up that far just to get the oil pan off I figured I might as well pull it all the way off and I didn't have to work under the truck.
Also I paid less than $200 for the parts to do the bottom end.
#10
i still find this interesting, such a bulletproof engine and it has thrustbearing issues!!! I went with cummins cause they have such great reviews... this is a major issue i never read about!!!!
wayne
wayne
#11
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Its not very common and the updated thrust bearing is a 1 piece design unlike the original 3 piece design. I believe this is the first i've heard of on an auto, the rest have been manuals. And if you sit at stop lights with the clutch disengaged all the time its inevitable. Also having to "dry" start the engine with the clutch disengaged takes its toll. Since i've replaced them I disabled the clutch safety switch. Non of my vehicles have a working clutch safety swich anymore. lol
#12
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Maybe because it's not a major problem. This is not a very common issue IMHO. Not like fuel system issues or ddeath wobble.
If you build enough engines, you'll eventually have a problem. You just got lucky
How many people on the board have had to work on them...2, 3??
Chris
EDIT: When did they switch to the 1 piece thrust??
If you build enough engines, you'll eventually have a problem. You just got lucky
How many people on the board have had to work on them...2, 3??
Chris
EDIT: When did they switch to the 1 piece thrust??
#13
Administrator
Yes, it would have been easier to pull the engine completely out and do the work on a revolving engine stand. But, taking it as I was in a bind with no engine stand, I had to work with what I had.
#14
Registered User
Originally Posted by apwatson50
Its not very common and the updated thrust bearing is a 1 piece design unlike the original 3 piece design. I believe this is the first i've heard of on an auto, the rest have been manuals. And if you sit at stop lights with the clutch disengaged all the time its inevitable. Also having to "dry" start the engine with the clutch disengaged takes its toll. Since i've replaced them I disabled the clutch safety switch. Non of my vehicles have a working clutch safety swich anymore. lol
#15
Registered User
Originally Posted by Underpsi
Isn't staring the engine with the clutch disengaged better for it?