Crank Position Sensor
12-08-2015, 09:56 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Crank Position Sensor
What's available (and affordable) in the line of crank position sensors? Mine is not liking the cold. Doesn't work at first, then it does.
12-08-2015, 10:43 AM
#3
Registered User
Believe it or not, Mother Mopar still has them but IIRC the list price is slightly more than $100.
I had an intermittent CPS problem that John Martin helped me diagnose. When the CPS was malfunctioning the dash voltmeter would show no charging and the A/C and overdrive wouldn't work -- everything else worked fine.
After I installed the new CPS I was wrapping up the wires on the old one to discard it and I noticed a piece of debris smaller than a pencil eraser stuck to the magnetic face of CPS. As John and I later discussed, if the debris was in fact magnetic (likely), it could have been causing my intermittent problem and the old CPS unit may be fine. You obviously cannot see the face of the CPS while it is in place, but you might take your feeler gauge and run it between the CPS and pulley to make certain there is no foreign (magnetic) substance clinging to the CPS.
I had an intermittent CPS problem that John Martin helped me diagnose. When the CPS was malfunctioning the dash voltmeter would show no charging and the A/C and overdrive wouldn't work -- everything else worked fine.
After I installed the new CPS I was wrapping up the wires on the old one to discard it and I noticed a piece of debris smaller than a pencil eraser stuck to the magnetic face of CPS. As John and I later discussed, if the debris was in fact magnetic (likely), it could have been causing my intermittent problem and the old CPS unit may be fine. You obviously cannot see the face of the CPS while it is in place, but you might take your feeler gauge and run it between the CPS and pulley to make certain there is no foreign (magnetic) substance clinging to the CPS.
12-08-2015, 11:48 AM
#4
Registered User
Believe it or not, Mother Mopar still has them but IIRC the list price is slightly more than $100.
I had an intermittent CPS problem that John Martin helped me diagnose. When the CPS was malfunctioning the dash voltmeter would show no charging and the A/C and overdrive wouldn't work -- everything else worked fine.
After I installed the new CPS I was wrapping up the wires on the old one to discard it and I noticed a piece of debris smaller than a pencil eraser stuck to the magnetic face of CPS. As John and I later discussed, if the debris was in fact magnetic (likely), it could have been causing my intermittent problem and the old CPS unit may be fine. You obviously cannot see the face of the CPS while it is in place, but you might take your feeler gauge and run it between the CPS and pulley to make certain there is no foreign (magnetic) substance clinging to the CPS.
I had an intermittent CPS problem that John Martin helped me diagnose. When the CPS was malfunctioning the dash voltmeter would show no charging and the A/C and overdrive wouldn't work -- everything else worked fine.
After I installed the new CPS I was wrapping up the wires on the old one to discard it and I noticed a piece of debris smaller than a pencil eraser stuck to the magnetic face of CPS. As John and I later discussed, if the debris was in fact magnetic (likely), it could have been causing my intermittent problem and the old CPS unit may be fine. You obviously cannot see the face of the CPS while it is in place, but you might take your feeler gauge and run it between the CPS and pulley to make certain there is no foreign (magnetic) substance clinging to the CPS.
Personally I've had more trouble with connectors than with the sensor itself. Luckily it's pretty easy to probe the connector at the top front of the engine and verify operation. (or not)
12-08-2015, 12:52 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
It started this winter and only when the temperature stayed below zero like the last 2 days. No tach and the volt meter is pegged. Which is odd considering I bypassed the PCM with a stand alone regulator tapped off the ignition switch run side. Stays that way for about a minute then everything is normal again. The lights are normal brightness when it happens. If it follows the pattern like the last time it did it, it won't happen again until I let it cold soak over the weekend.
12-08-2015, 03:01 PM
#6
If need be, a new one can be had from Genosgarage.com for way under $100. Make sure it is for our rigs, as they offer the ones for the 2nd gens also. They look identical except for the wiring harness connection. Ours are roundish, while 2nd gens more of an oval fitting. I like the new style out now vs our OEM ones. The mounting slots are both oval in shape, making adjustments to the gap clearance easier, especially if you ever decide to install a Fluid Damper
12-08-2015, 05:04 PM
#7
Registered User
It started this winter and only when the temperature stayed below zero like the last 2 days. No tach and the volt meter is pegged. Which is odd considering I bypassed the PCM with a stand alone regulator tapped off the ignition switch run side. Stays that way for about a minute then everything is normal again. The lights are normal brightness when it happens. If it follows the pattern like the last time it did it, it won't happen again until I let it cold soak over the weekend.
The other possibility is a weak ignition switch or wire. Low sense voltatge to the VR would peg the voltmeter, as the VR thinks the battery's dead. Low voltage off that same lead would confuse the PCM.
Connector problems are often temperature sensitive, as they are made of metal, and metal moves when temp changes.
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12-12-2015, 12:21 PM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Just for grins and giggles, clean the grounds near the PCM
The other possibility is a weak ignition switch or wire. Low sense voltatge to the VR would peg the voltmeter, as the VR thinks the battery's dead. Low voltage off that same lead would confuse the PCM.
Connector problems are often temperature sensitive, as they are made of metal, and metal moves when temp changes.
The other possibility is a weak ignition switch or wire. Low sense voltatge to the VR would peg the voltmeter, as the VR thinks the battery's dead. Low voltage off that same lead would confuse the PCM.
Connector problems are often temperature sensitive, as they are made of metal, and metal moves when temp changes.
12-12-2015, 06:53 PM
#9
Registered User
Humm, possible. I know I have a problem inside my harness somewhere, that is why I had to bypass the voltage regulator and TPS. One of the things I did was remove, sand, and apply copper antiseeze to every ground and terminal I could get my pudgy fat fingers on. Being intermittent, it makes it hard to troubleshoot.
I use DeOxit. WD40 is better than nothing.
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