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Cost effective turbo changes

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Old 06-08-2008, 10:18 AM
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Cost effective turbo changes

What's the scoop on price?

I've got a doggy 1991.5 turbo diesel. I can upgrade housing- $175. Or a HX-35 is $695 plus the housing. I'm guessing ppl are picking up used HX-35's? Then changing housings? Then changing to the HX-40 to make hi-breds? No money for a twin system.

I just want an upgrade bad and don't want to have to buy stuff twice. Limited budget.
Any consensus on the best way to go?

Thanks

Michael
Old 06-08-2008, 10:38 AM
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Going to a HX35 from your current H1C isn't much of an up grade.

By the time you buy a exhaust housing and a usedHX35. Your getting close to the cost of a new Super HX40. The 40 comes with a 16cm housing allready. It takes a 4" exhaust to use one. So does the S300's. A full 4" exhaust is one improvement your truck will like.

If your making 25+ PSI on your H1C you can spool the HX40 with no problem.

I just want an upgrade bad and don't want to have to buy stuff twice.
If you can't afford a S300 then get a Super HX40 and don't look back. Ether one will do fine. You just need some fuel for eather one.


Now the part of being doggy is a fuel issue. Most of the times not enough. What have you done to the truck so far to increase fueling???

A new turbo will not improve performance. You need fuel to do that.
Old 06-08-2008, 11:05 AM
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Well Sam, get a pyro and turn that fuel screw in as far as you can. Then decide what turbo you want.
Old 06-08-2008, 12:27 PM
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It's stock- 94,500 miles until the odometer broke last month.

I was concerned that the buying a housing for theH1C might be effect lag, but not really satisfing power. Where do I buy a super HX-40? I thought many were buying used 35's and changing out one side with a 40 housing/impeller?
What can I expect to pay for a super HX-40?

No gauge- don't know what my max psi is for the motor.

Does turning up the fuel and changing the fuel pin go together? The grinding the fuel pin increases fuel at low speeds, where the fuel screw adds fuel accross all RPM ranges??



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Old 06-08-2008, 12:29 PM
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What does PDR do to make the turbo's special?

i see pdr HX-35 and 40's.
Old 06-08-2008, 02:09 PM
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Your 91.5 should have a 18cm housing on it. Going to a 16cm isn't worth the effort to swap it. A 14cm WG'd housing is to expensive. A 14 nonWG'd isn't bad on price. But you would need to do something with your exhaust. It has the same overall length as the WG'd housing from the pic's I have seen. As far as I am concerned a 12 is to small.


If you don't have a pryo get that first. You need to know where the engine is at now. Liquid pistons tend to make things run a lot worse.

If you don't all ready have the HX35 by the time you buy it used and the upgrade kit for the 40 wheel and housing plus the smaller exhaust housing. Add all those items up and your getting close to the HX40 price. The Super 40from HTT runs around $825. Most good used HX35's are going for $250 plus. The upgrade kit with bigger wheel and intake housing is around $250 or so. If you need the exhaust housing a new one is $175+. So that puts you around $675 give or take a little on what you can do on used parts. Then hope that used turbo doesn't start oiling the intake system for you.

Grinding the fuel pin increases fueling anytime you have boost. The fuel screw increases it across the full range of engine operation.

Right now at the level your at I wouldn't worry about a turbo till you have more fuel to the engine. The map range of the H1C is 25 PSI, much above that and your making hot air with very little benifit. Your maybe running 18PSI if your lucky. So get some gages and then turn it up some.

There are other items that can improve performance and still use your stock turbo for a while. A good 4" exhaust will drop EGT's around 100 degrees with or without a muffler on it. The stock air horn is restrictive. A 24 valve second gen air horn and a 3" tube from the stock IC will drop EGT's around 50 degrees.

By adding a full 4" exhaust now you will be ready later on for a good turbo that uses a 4" outlet.
Old 06-08-2008, 02:37 PM
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You don't have enough fuel for a super 40, it will suck just as bad as the stock turbo.

Buy a used '35, a 16 cm or a used 12cm housing.
Old 06-08-2008, 03:37 PM
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My 91.5 had the 21cm housing on it. I think it would lite with a maxed pump but I say buy the air and then add the fuel! You'll grow out of your H1C pretty quick. Decide what the soul purpose of the truck is going to be and we can better suggest what to do with it.
Old 06-08-2008, 07:27 PM
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Dave the new crop of Super 40's spool just as fast as a 35 does. I installed one two weeks ago. I see no difference between it and the 35 on spoolup. I lost 2 PSI total boost which I figured I would. That is the same amount I lost when I stepped to the HX35 from the H1C. Cruise boost is 4 PSI from the 6 PSI the 35 had. But the 40 comes in better in the mid range band. I also see a small drop in EGT's at cruise speed. I didn't expect that.

I started with 24 PSI on the HX35 before the swap. So you don't need as much fuel as you think to spool a Super 40 if it is a Super 40. If your buying a 40 used you never know what your getting. The new Supers are running a 7 blade wheel on them.
Old 06-08-2008, 08:21 PM
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I'd suggest just getting a hx35 and then if you have automatic trans then dump the 12cm and put on a 16cm from PDR or somewhere. I think it would be fun to drive and egt would be good. Used hx35's are on craigslist and ebay all the time. Im almost postive the 91.5 had a 21cm along with the 92.
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