Cooling unit mounted under the bed?
#16
Registered User
I'm surprised no one has modified the A/C condenser to become a tranny cooler. The tranny cooler up front is really small. I'll bet the A/C unit is 4 times the size. Looks like you could make some brackets and double stack 2 A/C units in there. Cut the ends 3" from the bolt and gasket block and clamp the hoses to it.
The gasoline models had a 2 in one radiator. With ports for the tranny fluid in the bottom of the radiator.
The gasoline models had a 2 in one radiator. With ports for the tranny fluid in the bottom of the radiator.
#17
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Join Date: Feb 2003
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Wow!!!! really? If so, that would explain alot. Can anyone else vouch for having one of these thermostatic bypass valves? Where are they located specifically? I will crawl under my truck soon and check........what does this critter look like? You have me wondering now............
DBF
#19
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Lots of underbed cooler discussion in here.
I have someone local that has a 92 Dually W350 with the underbed cooler, he tows. It has a BD torque converter and thats it, upgraded years ago. Says he likes it.
He has an autometer gauge in the pan and says he's seen 200* and the fan didn't kick on under the bed, and he feels like the fluid temp. wouldnt be 200* if the cooler was being used
what temp. does the fan kick on/valve open ??? does this frame mounted valve kick on before the fan or both at the same time?
I think he's just gonna figure a way to wire the valve and the fan to a toggle switch rather than having all the automatic temperature stuff.
But is there a way to replace a temperature switch with a lower temperature switch? Like lets say a 200* switch or something.
thanks
I have someone local that has a 92 Dually W350 with the underbed cooler, he tows. It has a BD torque converter and thats it, upgraded years ago. Says he likes it.
He has an autometer gauge in the pan and says he's seen 200* and the fan didn't kick on under the bed, and he feels like the fluid temp. wouldnt be 200* if the cooler was being used
what temp. does the fan kick on/valve open ??? does this frame mounted valve kick on before the fan or both at the same time?
I think he's just gonna figure a way to wire the valve and the fan to a toggle switch rather than having all the automatic temperature stuff.
But is there a way to replace a temperature switch with a lower temperature switch? Like lets say a 200* switch or something.
thanks
#20
Registered User
So does this "H" shaped fitting sieze up or have issues with 1st gen owners? What if I pull it out and install an open "H" fitting? I haven't tested it yet, but it sounds like a likely part that is causing me heat issues.
#21
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Mine works as it's supposed to fan comes on with heavy towing wideopen up a steep hill low gear at about 230 degrees and I know for sure it goes through the cooler as cooler gets hot and I broke a hose once right at the cooler and left alot of fluid on the road.(I believe about 5-6 gal, I first went to a part store and was told not over 3 gal in my system went back with 3 and went back a second time for 3 more)
#22
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I'd like to remind people that the heat exchanger on the passenger side of the block works two ways. If the trans fluid is hotter than the engine coolant, heat is passed to the coolant to be returned to the air by the radiator. If the engine coolant is hotter than the trans fluid, it passes heat to the trans fluid - mostly needed in cold climates to get the trans up to the temperature it likes.
So, if you're towing uphill and engine temperature rises (say, due to a partly-plugged radiator), the excess temps will heat up the trans fluid. So you have to make sure the radiator fan is pulling air as well as the cooler fan and that the radiator is efficient.
The gage in the pan is a good start, but not enough IMHO. The fluid in the pan is going to be sucked into the transmission. If it's hot, it will only get hotter as it does its work inside the trans. I have another gage on the output of the transmission and watch that gage closely to see if I want to slow down or manually switch on the cooler, or both. I try to keep the outlet temp at or below 200* - if it goes higher for a long period, I make sure to change out the fluid earlier than normal (or very soon). I watch the pan gage as well to see what it's doing.
Regards, DBF
#23
Administrator
I also have this Super Duty Transmission Oil Cooler on my truck and I do not have this bypass anywhere in the circuit.
I remember at one time reading a Service Bulletin on how to install this bypass into the lines because of problems of cold weather drivability, simply the thicker fluid will bypass the fluid resistance created by the passes through the chilled fin and plates of the cooler.
This is also another version of bypass that was installed on later years.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1995/21-03-95.htm
I have a full description of the Super Duty Transmission Oil Cooler here.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...r-t264993.html
Jim
I remember at one time reading a Service Bulletin on how to install this bypass into the lines because of problems of cold weather drivability, simply the thicker fluid will bypass the fluid resistance created by the passes through the chilled fin and plates of the cooler.
This is also another version of bypass that was installed on later years.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1995/21-03-95.htm
I have a full description of the Super Duty Transmission Oil Cooler here.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...r-t264993.html
Jim
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